80 Series Fluid change & inspection priorities. Where to start ? (1 Viewer)

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So I guess this is where I come clean as to just how much of a novice I am at this but so be it.

After falling into a "you won't believe it deal" on a 93 80 series last year that was & is running and sounding great I decided before starting to dump non required preventative and accessory dollars into it I would drive it for a while to make sure there were not hidden major issues before proceeding. It was bought as a 50 mi a week run around the farm vehicle and guess what. A year later I'm in love. My 2016 Suburban Z71 is now my second choice and the cruiser is darn near my daily driver. It's a little rough but I love it.
Unfortunately other than the basic oil changes I send all work out on my vehicles to a trusted local garage. It's been given the basic look over. Replaced a couple of window motors, new starter, leaking rear axle seal replaced, added A/C freon and changed motor oil and filter. Brakes need work but are adequate.

So my question to you of knowledge is what should be my priority list of things to have inspected, fluid changes to do other than motor oil or any other priority preventative measures to keep this baby going another 100,000 miles.

Please list by priority so I can use my limited budget appropriately.

Thanks very much.
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The biggest area of concern IMO is the coolant system. If your engine gets hot due to an unexpected coolant leak or other your truck will be down. Check and replace at least the heater hoses including the PHH, the one under the intake and the ones against the fire wall going in and out of the heat control valve. Secondly, I would replace and/or upgrade the fan clutch with 15000 CST fluid. Fan clutches are often forgotten about and a pour operating fan clutch will increase engine temps which could cause damage (head gasket, hoses, other). Welcome to Mud!
 
* Service your brakes as mentioned in your post.

The coolant system on the 1FZFE is critical and summer is coming.

1. Drain the radiator and engine block, flush with distilled water, and replace the engine coolant (50/50 Toyota Red and distilled water). Inspect the thermostat, hoses, water pump, and radiator for leaks and serviceability (replace as required). This PM could possibly save your head gasket from blowing. Over heating is death to the head gasket in most cases.

2. Drain and replace the diffs and transfer case oil.

3. Inspect and service (grease) the front wheel bearings and steering knuckles. Replace any worn parts.

4. Inspect and service (grease) the front and rear drive shafts. Replace u-joints if worn.
 
Change gear oil in front and rear differentials and transfer case. Now is a good time to replace drain plugs with Allen Head Model.

Have the Radiator Fluid Changed (personally I would go complete flush and go green) Highest Priority

Have the brake fluid changed (if bleeders are seized you have to make a decision, personally I would replace calipers) Lowest Priority, but ensure fluid is to line in Reservoir.

Ensure front knuckles are not leaking out of the "eyeball" and check level of grease.

I would chk Transmission Fluid Condition (Smell burned or not transparent then change)

Oil leaks are not life or death, but watch oil level

Chk the level of water in your battery and add acid or bottled water if necessary

Obviously chk the Tires, Hoses, Wiper and Bulbs (Free)

You might want to read up on the PHH (Pesky Heater Hose) and Heater Control Valve on Firewall.
 
Cooling system, to include new hoses, distilled water mixed 50/50 with whatever color coolant is in there now. (Should be red, but a lot switch over to green, once it's switched.... DONT keep switching it!)
Transfer case fluid.... forgotten until destroyed.
Flush brake fluid with new
Differentials..... check for seal leakage on front.
Check tranny fluid, do NOT flush tranny unless you want to buy a new one. You can change fluids out. But flushing older trannies is bad juju from what I've seen.
Good luck! Enjoy!
 
Congratulations! Love is a drug...

my $0.02, these trucks are overdesigned and overbuilt. They can deal with a lot of abuse and neglect.

1st priority: buy a Factory Service Manual (FSM), even if you don't intend to do any work on your truck, it's old and you would be well advised to understand the repair before it's accomplished. Toyota tech info service (TIS) offers a $15, two-day subscription, which is more than enough time to download the entire manual, and much cheaper than the print version (I wish I had two of those) (If you're lazy, PM me and I'll make you a deal, for twice the price)

2nd priority:
I second the recommended inspection of all fluids. If they're dirty, or smell bad, replace them and start troubleshooting so you know why. This will help you prioritize your PM/RM work plan.
Replace the drain plugs in the differentials with Allen heads, check your grease zerks (FSM for locations) and the pipe plugs on the Birfields. If the zerks or plugs are stuck, be prepared to replace them (they're cheap) so that you'll be able to service those areas when needed.

3rd priority:
Belts and hoses. Replace them now, before they fail, and keep the old ones for emergency spares if they're serviceable.

Happy motoring!
 
indeed my golden rule - if you even look at the heater valve - change it (imho) tis more of a general liability than the PHH
mine failed - whislt my phh was totally fine -

cooling flush can be done 2 ways - "t-flush" or simply by running distilled through over and over -



the there 4 major oil leaks are nothing major and by far not urgent -
to diagnose - simply look down past the rad fan at the top side of the bottom shield / skid plate -
if it is "wet" you liked have either the crank, oil pump seal, or dizzy oring leak (4th is valve cover)
again none are dire - but as you start you baseline PMing they will be on you to do list.

other than that than as other have said - the usual suspects apply - get your turkey baster out and start inspecting all yer fluids -
there are vids and links all over for near everything - trans fluid replacement, one-bottle break bleed....

Bf
 
Here's roughly the order I would go through fluid changes on a new to me cruiser. This assumes there aren't any obvious issues with any one system.

#1 Braking system (full fluid flush and bleed - I prefer the gatorade bottle single person method)
#2 Engine oil (regular oil and filter change)
#3 Cooling system (flush, change coolant)
#4 Transmission (fluid exchange via transmission cooler and 5 gallon bucket method)
#5 Transfer case (drain and fill - replace with hex plugs)
#6 Steering knuckles (check moly grease level using ziptie method - add with syringe if needed)
#7 Front differential (drain and fill - replace with hex plugs)
#8 Rear differential (drain and fill - replace with hex plugs)
#9 U joints (grease gun, don't overfill the slip yokes, will need to move the truck back and forth to reach all zerks)
#10 Power steering system (turkey baster/syringe method to exchange fluid several times over a period of time)


With nice weather, some pre planning, decent tools ( + experience) and a 12 pack of beer you could knock this whole list out in a weekend. I'd probably split it up into two weekends myself.
 
Here's roughly the order I would go through fluid changes on a new to me cruiser. This assumes there aren't any obvious issues with any one system.

#1 Braking system (full fluid flush and bleed - I prefer the gatorade bottle single person method)
#2 Engine oil (regular oil and filter change)
#3 Cooling system (flush, change coolant)
#4 Transmission (fluid exchange via transmission cooler and 5 gallon bucket method)
#5 Transfer case (drain and fill - replace with hex plugs)
#6 Steering knuckles (check moly grease level using ziptie method - add with syringe if needed)
#7 Front differential (drain and fill - replace with hex plugs)
#8 Rear differential (drain and fill - replace with hex plugs)
#9 U joints (grease gun, don't overfill the slip yokes, will need to move the truck back and forth to reach all zerks)
#10 Power steering system (turkey baster/syringe method to exchange fluid several times over a period of time)


With nice weather, some pre planning, decent tools ( + experience) and a 12 pack of beer you could knock this whole list out in a weekend. I'd probably split it up into two weekends myself.
Thanks much !
 
Don't pay $$$ for a FSM! They are free to download in the classified section! Hopefully someone will post a link.... I can't remember it now.
 
Since no one pointed this out, i will, the kids at your local Jifi lube seem to over tighten the fill, and drain plugs on these trucks. So when your doing an oil change on your T case, and front/rear axles, ALWAYS remove your fill plug first. The reason for this, sometimes you won't be able to get the fill plug out, and if you've already drained all your fluid out, and then find out you can't get the fill plug out, your stuck. After you've got all your fill, and drain plugs out, to reinstall them, torque them to around 22 foot pounds for the T case, and around 36 foot pounds for the axles, if i remember right. Best to check the FSM for the correct torque settings for your truck, just to be sure.
 

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