80 Series Driveshaft GRR & HOT transfer case

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overlandcruiser

overlandcruiser

Joined
Mar 13, 2017
Threads
2
Messages
7
Location
Lake James, NC
I have a 1996 80 series, 115k miles, lockers. I bought the truck a few months ago and added a OME 2.5'' lift kit with caster correction kit & 1'' Manofre Spacer in front. I had a shop install the lift. immediately after lift install I was getting the GRRRR sound while accelerating/decelerating. After inspection of rear driveshaft it was hydrolocked full of grease and phase was not correct. It cured 95% of the noise but am still having some noise around 65-80mph. While under the truck diagnosing the problem I felt my Transfer Case which was really hot, to hot to leave my hand on it. Last week I have the front-rear Driveshaft Ujoint replaced because it felt hot to the touch also. Even after replacing the Ujoint it still feels hot to the touch along with my transfer case. Also had transfer case & diff fluid changed.

I drove this stock truck from FL to NC with zero issues. Immediately following lift install i had the GRR noise during acceleration/deceleration. I took out front driveshaft and truck still had noise.

Do these transfer cases run hot from the factory?

Thanks, any info will be appreciated
 
Unfortunately, "HOT" is a subjective term. If, by chance you can get hold of a thermal gun and read an actual temp on the outside of the case, that would give a better idea.

The engine runs too hot for me to place my hand on, but the human skin can only take about 120°F before it incurs burns, but the same temp in a bearing case is "cool".

It does sound like you've had some issues with the U-Joints and over-greasing of the yokes. That MAY have taken out a bearing in the transfer case. If you have not already done it, change the oil on the TC and see how it looks and if there is a lot of shiny stuff in the oil. If nothing, you're only out the cost of the oil change. If so, you may be able to prevent a catastrophic failure. But first, check ACTUAL temps. That will tell more.
 
Don't use molly grease on U joints. Use the tacky red crap.

Molly can allow the needle bearings to slide instead of roll causing non-uniform wear.

Sidenote: the 80 really should've come from the factory with a double cardan front shaft, I think toyota was able to get away with it in stock for by phasing it out 90 degrees. But the higher you go the worse it is. (Make sure your front shaft is phased at 90 degrees).

As for the rear: You need to verify your T-case output flange angle in relation to the pinion flange angle. They need to be within .1 degree. Any more and you will get vibes.
 
BILT4ME said:
Unfortunately, "HOT" is a subjective term. If, by chance you can get hold of a thermal gun and read an actual temp on the outside of the case, that would give a better idea. ...
Click to expand...

Yep, it should run to hot to touch for long, 180F would not be bad.
 
SmokingRocks said:
... (Make sure your front shaft is phased at 90 degrees).
...
Click to expand...

We have found, on lifted rigs, changing to in-phase runs smoother than the factory out of phase.
 
Interesting, is it worth re-balancing or can I just make the start position and phase it? I guess its kind of a try it and see thing.
 
Tools R Us said:
We have found, on lifted rigs, changing to in-phase runs smoother than the factory out of phase.
Click to expand...

I'm admittedly under-educated to the term "phasing" the driveshaft. In theory, I know what it is, but would love a formal explanation. For example, are you phasing the individual ends of one driveshaft, or phasing a rear driveshaft against the front driveshaft? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
 
SmokingRocks said:
Interesting, is it worth re-balancing or can I just make the start position and phase it? I guess its kind of a try it and see thing.
Click to expand...

Have not balanced, just try and go.
 
midfat said:
I'm admittedly under-educated to the term "phasing" the driveshaft. In theory, I know what it is, but would love a formal explanation. For example, are you phasing the individual ends of one driveshaft, or phasing a rear driveshaft against the front driveshaft? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
Click to expand...

We are talking about the front, drop one end of the shaft, pull apart at the splines, clean, grease (moly is best) and put it back with the phase you prefer.

U-JOINT%20PHASING.jpg
 
Tools R Us said:
We are talking about the front, drop one end of the shaft, pull apart at the splines, clean, grease (moly is best) and put it back with the phase you prefer.

U-JOINT%20PHASING.jpg
Click to expand...
Got it. I also developed significant GRRRRRRRR after a re-gear on my 3" Icon lift. After switching to a front DC driveshaft, things have improved, but I'm still getting some trouble from the rear. Next step is new u-joints and realigning the pinion flange on the axle. I'll also experiment with the rear driveshaft phasing to see if that helps/hurts. Appreciate the clarification.
 
@midfat the rear should be phased correctly, I was talking about the front DS. In the FSM toyota says that it is to be set like the "incorrect" DS in Tool's image.
 
NLXTACY said:
Yeah rear need to be out of phase or else the yokes make noise.
Click to expand...


Is that only for those with a lift? My factory one is still in phase on rear and I have no issues. (Just for clarification)
 
BILT4ME said:
Is that only for those with a lift? My factory one is still in phase on rear and I have no issues. (Just for clarification)
Click to expand...
@NLXTACY can you elaborate? Manual says IN PHASE for rear driveshaft, but you clearly say OUT OF PHASE. Imagine my confusion...

shafts-jpg.58855
 
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