I would encourage you, or anyone, to do a lot of your own research. Maybe you will make discoveries that I missed during your journey to stopping your 80 in half the distance.Ok, I’m sold with that explanation. Thank you.
I just ordered the Wits End @NLXTACY ABS Sensor delete kit.
I’ll start piecing this thing together. I’ll probably Have to call your supplier & ask questions on the best parts to cobble together. I’d prefer to not install parts upside & inside out. But if that booster you got is superior to others, not a big deal. I’m guessing once installed it’s done.
I still prefer an OEM MC I think. It doesn’t need to be Toyota, but I prefer Toyota factory parts. But it may not be compatible, unless someone were to make a conversion bracket kit.
You will find that running the booster upside down is very common especially in the classic muscle car and hotrod community. Installing this way simply looks cleaner when using the GM booster. Once the air is bled from the PS steering fluid circuit, the booster operates normally.
Unless a MC with larger bore is used, pedal travel will remain the same unless it’s air that’s trapped in your abs circuitry that is causing longer than normal pedal travel. I don’t care for a long pedal travel. I have been in situations off road where my rig is nosed up toward the sky, my body is smashing back into the seat and I can’t or can barely reach far enough to apply the brakes effectively. The only way to combat this is to move the seat forward when the wheeling begins and feel cramped all day. A shorter pedal travel is my answer to this problem.