78 FJ 40 project Frank

[alabamatacomaguy]

Worked a little on it today. Found hard top sides from a memeber on here so hope to get that started soon. I'm on a mission to get this 40 ready for paint. I think I'll go with the stock Toyota mustard if I can get to that point seeing ssrc, tucker, Roma and the other great mustard builds on here make me enjoy the color. It was blue when I bought it but the firewall and paint code are dune beige 416.
Sprayed the tie rod ends with pb oil to get ready to swap over the new 555s I picked up a few years ago when I got the truck. The tie rods on there are in ok shape and don't have any looseness or play in them but the boots are torn or not there. So it's on the checklist.

I pulled the blower motor, dissembled and cleaned to get ready to paint. I'll need to dig more to find the factory color try to get it to match. I got one in Bette shape on eBay so I'm mixing the good and bad parts off of both
I also worked on one of the jump seats. The other I redid with new foam, paint, hardware and covers from cruiser corps a year or so ago. I'm happy with how it turned out and finally started the second one. I gave the jump seats that came with the 40 to a local guy who can weld so hopefully he can save them and use them in his project.

Over the last week I cleaned some of the flacky paint where a the cushion was with naval jelly, then a second treatment with jascos metal prep. Then etched primed and did a coat of epoxy paint. I'll do a nice coat later this week.

This Florida weather has spoiled me. Perfect weather today and no yard work since it's winter. 68 degrees with a slight breeze at times in February. Can't complain. Only bad thing is mosquitoes and in the summer the garage gets to hot.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

wiped up some oil around the pcv valve and put a hose clamp on it instead of a zip tie that I reused not knowing better. I'm thinking that will hold better and prevent the leak. Seems to have helped so far with the engine running for about 30 mins

I've got the Weber carb, is this where the pcv valve should be plumbed?
I started second guessing it when I saw oil around the valve.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

The draw for the PCV on the 2F is under the carburetor, on a fitting sticking out the side of the intake manifold.

I thought I read somewhere it was a different spot than where mine is. So I thought to ask.
I've screen shot a few posts I think will be helpful from searching on here. I wish I had gotten the posters names for credit, look like good helpful posts.

I do have some oil around the front of the valve cover like described in the second post.


Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I checked the pcv valve it was installed in the right direction. It is a new one I put in from ccorps and I put in a new rubber garment at the same time when I did. I'm wondering if the oil leaking is from the hose not being tight on the valve or the routing of where the pcv goes.

In the picture below there's become an oily build up over time I think it is partly due to the pcv plumbing route and partly to the valve cove not being tightened down enough or needing a new valve cover gasket. I tighten the valve cover bolts down to 7lbs with a torque wrench. A new oem gasket will be used soon.
Im trying to plan the details of the build. I want to get this going in the right direction soon even if it's not me doing the work. I'm thinking a well reputable place on my side of the country like acc or marshal would be best to rebuild/refresh the 2f,trans, and transfer case at some point that way I know it's done right. I keep going back and forth but it might turn into a tub off body resto so I can make it as nice as possible.


Anyway back to the problem top of the list right now


The red goes back to the pcv valve and the blue goes back to the bottom of her carb

I think I'm correct the blue on top of the valve cover is the breather? And it is plumbed correctly.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I snuck back out to the garage to avoid hanging curtains and the argument it would likely cause.

The pcv issue was frustrating me so I tried to work on other things. I'll read more on that before trying anything.
I worked on cleaning up the blower motor housing but couldn't find the goo gone for the old foam glue residue so I moved on to getting the front bibb off. Found some bondo material where they repaired the bottom part that always rusts. The headlight buckets and hardware seem to be in good enough shape to reuse. A bibb is on the way from a mudd memeber that should be in better shape. I'm going to try and talk around town to see if someone has a preferred body guy and sand blasting guy. It would be nice to also find someone local to do powdercoating or plating.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Cleaned up a few parts and primed them getting ready to assemble for the blower motor and jump seat. Real exciting. I used east wood interior frame rust spray on and in the front cross memeber after cleaning some surface rust where the bib hinge sits with naval jelly acid etch. Then a few days later cleaned and epoxy painted.
My grandfather had perfect vision until he died at 90. I was not fortunate in that area so lighting helps. I found some shop lights at Home Depot and bought two different ones to try. The one I ended up using is an led light and can link up to 9 fixtures. I think one more will be great.

I keep putting off my husband duties but maybe I'll have a bitchen curtain picture in the next day or so. Over the years growing up my mom would drag me to antique furniture stores so I've grown to enjoy quality furniture escpecially antique items. My new wife recovered some hand carved claw foot chairs a while back and has stained some peices as well. It's fun for us both to have productive hobbies when we are lucky enough to find free time. I'm trying to build a nice office area but I still think I'll end up on the couch working.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I was able to delay hanging curtains and get into the garage for a few hours Saturday night. Getting off the current driver side fender for the new one. Nothing can be to easy and the cruiser wanted me to remember that. The bolt that is the hardest to access broke during removal so I'll get to work on my bolt extraction skills which never seem to get better.

I hope to get some time today but the neglected honey do list will limit super awesome fun cruiser time. But for some exciting news I get to go to target again. If I'm good I get a popcorn and icy coke.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Got a call from fastenal today that my palet of body parts had arrived. Hard top sides and amby doors that have been blasted and front bib. I threw the sides on before having to get back to work but gives me some motivation to get in the garage and get going.

Picked up a can of can of knocker loose. Guy at the auto parts store swore by it and told me I would be back for more. Do seems stronger than the standard pb blaster but the verdicts still out if I'll ever buy again. At 13 bucks a can I doubt ill by again unless it makes my hair line come back down.

A benefit of having a wife is I get Christmas presents. This year I got a awesome poster. I got around to hanging it in the garage to up my cool points.... but the humidity is so bad the poster adhesive strips didn't hold. I try not to think of how bad the humidity is here on my cruiser.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Round 2 with the fender bolt. I don't want to call it a loss but by default the bolt won. My drill batts died in the middle of drilling it out to use a screw extractor. I did have some good news today when removing the steering rod drag link to get better access to the bolt I found somewhat new 555 joints that just need new boots and in my stockpile of parts I over ordered when I first got the cruiser are a set of new tie rod boots. I also found newish rotors and pads from previous owners, nice to have some previous owner kharma end in my benefit. I also beleive I can polish the headlight rings since they are hard to come by that's a relief.

Bibs being taken down
New to me early 70s bib in good shape

Bib being replaced that came on 78

I don't know if a previous owner cut up the wire part and shortened or the 78 came that way.

I'm hoping I can make Toyota center when I assemble but I've got a good bit of cleaning and prep before that. I'll add that to the research on mud list.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

The ups and downs of landcruisers

I spent 4 hours unsuccessfully trying to remove a broken bolt from the frame and probably ruined several drill bits trying to drill out what's left of the bolt. I had to just get up and walk away. Going to try again when I can, work is going to be crazy the next few weeks.

While getting some small brake hardware parts today I overheard a guy talking about painting a restored vehicle at the other checkout counter in Oreillys. The cashier behind the counter noticed me listening in and said "o he comes in all the time he paints and restores old vehicles for people. "
As my confused wife watched on from the car I had a quick conversation with the guy in the parking lot. He does sand blasting, body work, welding, painting and many other skilled traits. After he realized I was serious about getting my 40 painted and doing it the correct way he shared his info and said he's interested and we will try and met up next week for him to see. He's busy with a couple in line until summer but that gives me time to get the panels bolted up and fitted to make sure everything will work. Then I can take down for him to paint. He mentioned blasting, painting the body off the frame would be no problem which is the direction I wanted to go with it to get the best possible job done.
I'm sure I'll be bugging people on here with paint questions in the coming weeks.
I am so excited I'm sure my wife is tired of my cruiser talk already... again.

I think the 78 Toyota mustard color is what I will be happy with. The blue on it when I bought the truck was done by a previous owner. Somewhere under the spray paint, blue, red the cruiser was 416 tan from the factory


I'm delaying the inevitable but soon a call to racer is in order for all the exciting oem weatherstripping for the hard top and doors. Did I mention I'm going to try my best to do the right way. I know me and if I don't I'll be laying in bed thinking I should have gotten the better avail option.... landcruisers are my vice

 

[tls3601]

Big fan of the OEM Mustard Color here! Nice work and progress................

 

[blossett]

You have made great progress! Inspires me to get started on my first 40. Couple weeks worth of honey dos to finish up then the adventure begins!

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Big fan of the OEM Mustard Color here! Nice work and progress................

I am to. Its hard to pick just one color and decide on it but I really enjoy looking at the nice mustards on here and they seem like a classic color. The vin plate says 416 dune beige but except for a little bit of firewall none is left from previous owners.

You have made great progress! Inspires me to get started on my first 40. Couple weeks worth of honey dos to finish up then the adventure begins!

Thanks for nice words. Feels like I have only taken steps back but I think it prepares for the steps forward. The 40 in your picture looks good. My honey do list keeps me busy but Im hoping shell ride in it once done. She only rode in it the day I bought it years ago

 

[blossett]

I've got quite a bit of rust to deal with as well. A friend let me borrow a miller mig welder to get me started. He's going to have to give me lessons on rust repair. I haven't welded since stick welding class in high school in 1984!

 

[brian]

The expanded metal in front of the rad is shorter on the later years.
Not sure when that changed....77 maybe.

 

[Michael B]

Be aware that there are some differences on the 70's bib. Your 78' grill won't bolt into it without modifying the top two tabs and there is no mounting bracket for the hood safety latch.

I'm glad you have found a local body man to bring the 40 back to greatness. Keep up the good work!

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

The expanded metal in front of the rad is shorter on the later years.
Not sure when that changed....77 maybe.

Be aware that there are some differences on the 70's bib. Your 78' grill won't bolt into it without modifying the top two tabs and there is no mounting bracket for the hood safety latch.

I'm glad you have found a local body man to bring the 40 back to greatness. Keep up the good work!

I was noticing the differences when disassembling. I never had the hood safety latch before but was planning down the road to pick one up but this complicates that alittle.
Did the early 70s have something different in place of the latch or just no option. I wouldn't think it would be a big deal if I don't have one but I would like something. Maybe the bracket can be cut from the 78 and moved to the earlier bib.

Did the early 70s use a different emblem in the grill. If so I may just sell this bib and keep looking for a 78

 

[TractorDoc]

Read thru your entire post today. . . you have come a long way and made good progress. Your situation reminds(ed) me of myself back in the early 2000's. . . I switched job locations, bought a house that needed renovation, and married the Mrs. all more or less at the same time. Made very little free time to work on stuff that I wanted to tinker with, but in the end things turned out for the best. I am impressed that you were able to keep your interest up just driving to the rental unit for a few hours here and there for a year (or better!). Sounds like Mrs. Alabamatacomaguy is a keeper as well; any woman that buys you tools and works on projects in the garage with or near you is a winner in my book.

Looking forward to seeing more updates; keep the great work and pictures coming!

 

[Michael B]

The grill and the emblem are different for the 70' vintage 40's.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

Fixed it for ya @cult45


E - 1960: FJ25 Chrome bars with bib lights

1960 - 1969: Early FJ4x with parking lights in bib and round bezel.

1970 - 10/73: Later FJ4x without parking lights in bib and round bezel.

11/73 - 1978 no bib lights round bezel and under hood safety latch.

1979 - 1984: Latest FJ4x with square bezel and under hood safety latch.

After searching I found some nice information on the differences going along with what is posted above in another thread.

So my new bib is a 70-73.
It looks like others have mentioned tacking the bracket from the 78 for the latch in place which I like that route since I have grown tired of chasing good metal replacement parts. I'll also need to hunt down a latch as well but that doesn't seem to hard. I think I've seen they are still avail at dealers but I'm sure a nice used one will be fine.

I'm going to mess around with the grill and emblem fitment today to make sure I'm happy with this bib.