Build 73 FJ40 Refresh

[Engineer8000]

 

[Engineer8000]

not tech but 20 vs 12 lb Maine Coon

 

[Engineer8000]

Not a lot of progress, work has been very busy. I finished the fuel pump and supply/return hard lines. The the pump is a bosch from a jag with a DIN compression fitting, other end is inverted flare, 5/16 brake tubing. Return is 1/4" galvanized steel tubing. I put a small bubble on each end using my brake line flaring tool.

 

[Engineer8000]

Drive shafts are in. I used 4 speed drive shafts with 3 speed slip yokes and installed backwards to avoid having to replace the drive flanges on the diffs. The ford trucks and even some later land cruisers are like this so we will see how they hold up. There is a lot of discussion on how these should be installed, best I can tell the slip yokes are put on top to afford better protection.

 

[Engineer8000]

Working on installing the PTO drive gear on the TC. I just received the hardware from the plater so will be finishing that and the TC linkage up this weekend. The PTO shift linkage is about 3 inches too short, I believe it is for a 3 speed application. I ordered an m10x1.25 rod coupling to splice on 3 or 4 inches more to the linkage.

Replaced the weeping PS return hose ($) and put on new OEM hose clamps.

 

[Engineer8000]

Question, the spacer shown on the transfer case shift linkage parts diagram, 90560-17003, is it required for the 4 speed trans? I don't have it and everything seems to fit right without it.

 

[Engineer8000]

Almost finished pto and transfer case linkage. Missing a nut and a few washers but getting there.

Installed the rebuilt pillow block for the winch.

 

[Engineer8000]

Made a little more progress.

PTO shaft made and installed.

Finished exhaust from the manifolds to the muffler. I went under the skid plate. Waiting for O2 sensor gaskets. I know my welds look like a$$, I can't see to weld anymore.

 

[Engineer8000]

Returned to body work this weekend, the chassis is complete. Spent some time scraping rubber off the bottom. That stuff hides the corrosion really well. The PO said there wasn't any rust or bondo.

 

[Engineer8000]

Took a break from scraping and installed rad overflow bottle I bought a long time ago from @ToyotaMatt, and took hinges apart, started cooking

 

[Living in the Past]

Took a break from scraping and installed rad overflow bottle I bought a long time ago from @ToyotaMatt, and took hinges apart, started cooking

View attachment 3659998View attachment 3659999View attachment 3660000

Have you test fitted the bib and fenders with the AC condenser in front of the radiator? My 73 FST came with hard top/hard doors and A/C. The condenser is higher and interferes with the hood closing. The 1/79+ bibs are thinner to allow for an A/C condenser.

 

[Engineer8000]

Yes, I ran this condenser in this location for several years. It is a tight fit but works.

Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

most excellent tech. and details that matter applied as usual Russ ....

under your well thought out site-protection shift-tower hole white cap you have going on below ...

i was curious about the 2 dowel pins that Toyota machine riveted from the outside to set them in place ....

my below tech. images show better then i can text-type here , as they directly mechanically relate to all the parts in my blue-ink circle in the EPC microfiche slide ...

if you could post a few close up photos of each one , each outer riveted mush-room side , and a inside pic of the hole where they are the original dowel shape profile

also , i have applied and used in full size-spec format via Kinkos the P.I.O. ( port installed option ) TSB below , i got it kinko'd up on translucent tracing-type paper print media ....

matt





.

.

 

[Engineer8000]

First batch of hinge parts through the cooker

Finished the big peel on the tub and set it back on the frame, ready for body work.

 

[Engineer8000]

pictures requested

 

[Engineer8000]

more

 

[Engineer8000]

Finished cleaning and primed the hood and windshield frame hinges and installed temporarily so I can line up the body to figure out the battery tray position. Chased all the captured/welded nuts on the tub and other panels. Added weld nuts for the distributor air purge filter and water valve on the firewall so I don't have to do the reach around anymore. Fixed one missing nut on the tub rail for the top side. Also found a good spot on the inner fenders for the elephant horns, I marked the location and will install weld nuts when the fenders come back off. I have two twisted off bolts left to extract on one wheel well.

Met with the body and paint guys to get them started fixing rust and filling the extra holes drilled in this thing over the last 50 years.

Welded in tank strap anchors

elephant horns

 

[Engineer8000]

Finished lining up the front and installed battery tray brace to frame.

 

[Engineer8000]

I spent some time this week on the heater and AC test fitting. I really want a functional cowl vent. In order for that, I need to use an older style heater 68-73 I believe. Actually, the mounting ears on the 73 only heater has odd spacing, but an earlier or later heater can be made to work. I have a really nice original 73 unique heater which was my first try. It places the opening about 3/8" too high. I had an earlier heater that can be made to look nice so I took it and modified the mounting feet locations to both match the unique 73 hole spacing and move the whole heater down 3/8". I also had to trim about 3/4" off the heater opening. This is the result of that.

Then I discovered this

And realized the earlier heater positions the opening about 3/4" further out from the firewall so the L200 duct does not fit correctly. No fixing that.

So now I have to decide between a functional cowl vent and correct 73 only heater and AC. This sucks.

 

[Andrew S]

Is that L200 duct a 3D printed repro? You might be able to have a modified version printed. If I was local I'd be up to trying, but getting that designed will be tough without being there.