70 Series General Tech and Classifieds. (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Encountered my first “issue”’with the HZJ73. I noticed that on start up it had this “whirring” noise, like something was spinning up to take off. When i turn it off then on again, all is well. This only happens occasionally. After some deep thoughts and a text to our resident Toyota genius, it is likely the starter getting stuck. It’s a 24v starter and quite a PITA to find (and $$$$) so I ordered a rebuild kit. I’ll report back when it gets here and I give the rebuild a whirl.

Ah come on Heather they are not that hard to find I have about a dozen on the shelve in my shop.
 
Ah come on Heather they are not that hard to find I have about a dozen on the shelve in my shop.

I should have remembered to ask you...
 
I should have remembered to ask you...

Rebuilding your starter is always a good option and having a spare to boot from Joe is even better. The local starter/alternator rebuild shop to me has rebuilt my 24volt motors (starter, alternator, EDIC drive motor) as standard items because they normally see 6V / 12V / 24V hardware so my rebuilds as business as usual for them.

Good luck
 
Just bought it in Denver. Was going to fly out and drive it back, but the flights filled up so I drove out there with a trailer and hauled it back.
IMG_3668.JPG
 
BJ 75 from Finland.
Lived a hard life. Pretty rusty and crusty.
No interior in the back. Mismatched front seats.
Looks like it has been used as a work van of some variety.
Smells like a lawn mower repair shop.
IMG_3672.JPG
 
But it runs and drives good.
Everything seems to work on it except the drivers rear light assembly.
Haven't tried the PTO winch yet.
 
It will be some time before I can really dig in to this project. Fixing the rear light assembly was easy. Tail light, brake light, blinker and reverse light all were inop. All bulbs were burned out because they were 12v bulbs in a 24v truck. Working great now.

I have a driveline vibration at highway speeds. Rear u-joint has slight play, but the pinion shaft has movement laterally.
Question:
Do I need feeler gauges and yellow paint to replace the pinion bearing?
I don't have the chops for that.
If we're talking diff set-up, anybody know a guy in or close to Memphis?

John
 
So, I was pretty ignorant on diffs. I think I've schooled myself a bit now.

I should be able to unbolt the drive shaft, pull the axles and remove/replace the 3rd in one piece and so long as I don't monkey with the carrier bearings I shouldn't need to set up the diff, correct?

My data plate says KO85 which means 4.11, LSD.
Any of yours limited slip?
 
I would confirm you actually still have the LSD in there before you order any rebuild parts. I have the same data plate, but mine has ARB's so it's pretty easy to tell. Who knows what has happened in that cruisers life if they have kept that in their or not.

I had a few engine parts during my rebuild I had to reorder because the kit assumes everything is there and stock sized...another set of crank bearings, and 2 sets of Cam bearings later I had the right parts.
 
Good point.
If it is an LSD, would there be any issues putting it in the front axle?

I thought maybe I'd swap front and rear 3rds and drive it like that while investigating a rear locker.
Any issues with that plan?
Vibration is only bad at high speeds where I wouldn't be spinning the front diff.
I bet I put less than 100 miles/year in my part-time vehicles in 4wd or with the hubs locked anyway.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom