Build 69 FJ40 FST

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I use a hitch receiver cargo rack and/or a small Datsun pick up bed trailer.

My truck is originally a hardtop but has a softop on it until I can fix the hardtop. I’m pretty close to figuring out a rack that fits over the ST.
 
yep just need to find a 74 and older hardtop and it goes right on. when I picked up my 74 FST in az we took the soft top off and installed the hardtop that came with it for the ride home. other than being way too heavy for 2 guys we got it on without much issue.
 
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65swb45 said:
If you see threaded holes in the top of your bedrails, it's a straight bolt on.😉 The rail across the top of the windshield frame and the FST twists should be the only thing you need to remove. I wheeled my 40 with a family of 4 for almost a decade.
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Nice. Good to know. I have those holes in the bed rails.
 
I was eyeballin this one to poach the doors and hardtop. I wonder if a fellow Mud member grabbed it?
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Well was hoping to get started on the body mounts this afternoon but wanted to get the fuel gauge working. Repaired a splice on the rear tank that seemed ok but @Mightymes suggested that may be the culprit. Still no luck after that.
Not even close to an electrical expert so I’m kind of at a loss.
Original tank under passenger seat sender is spliced - I’m assuming to send a ground circuit to the rear?
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Tank selector - 12V on the yellow
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What I can’t understand is the connection at the Dakota Unit. There’s only two wires and neither have voltage while key on/running.

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I’m kinda stuck. I know it’s hard to ask for electrical help on something like this but if anyone has any ideas, I’d appreciate it!
 
schuy2147 said:
Well was hoping to get started on the body mounts this afternoon but wanted to get the fuel gauge working. Repaired a splice on the rear tank that seemed ok but @Mightymes suggested that may be the culprit. Still no luck after that.
Not even close to an electrical expert so I’m kind of at a loss.
Original tank under passenger seat sender is spliced - I’m assuming to send a ground circuit to the rear?
View attachment 4047655View attachment 4047656

Tank selector - 12V on the yellow
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What I can’t understand is the connection at the Dakota Unit. There’s only two wires and neither have voltage while key on/running.

View attachment 4047658

I’m kinda stuck. I know it’s hard to ask for electrical help on something like this but if anyone has any ideas, I’d appreciate it!
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You can't switch between tanks while the truck in on/key on. You have to turn it off, move the switch, then cycle it back on. This is the only way I could get a reading for both tanks. If you have one tank fairly empty and one full you'll be able to tell that is working correctly. The way I wired it into the Dakota digital is how I got it to work....don't change that. I believe I made some marks with a sharpie as to which tank is which, but can't recall exactly how I marked it. I hope this helps!
 
So…turns out a little reading and comprehension goes a long way! Quick reference to the Dakota schematic and figured my issue with the gauge. Between the faulty connection in the rear and my hookup at the unit, that fixed the issue.

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Other exciting news, my wheels from City Racer have shipped. Need to get my suspension and tires ordered up.
 
Took the 40 to the farm yesterday.
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Since the fuel gauge situation was cleared up, I topped the tank off. As soon as I pulled out of the station the cab was full of fumes. I noticed fuel leaking from two plugged ports on the top back of the tank. Only pic I have showing them.
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I don’t think this is a period correct tank. No biggie but have to either find a better solution or replace with the right tank.
 
FYI, If you're thinking to buy a new OE tank, keep in mind that Toyota often raises their prices at the first of the year, so you might not want to wait.
 
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schuy2147 said:
Took the 40 to the farm yesterday.
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Since the fuel gauge situation was cleared up, I topped the tank off. As soon as I pulled out of the station the cab was full of fumes. I noticed fuel leaking from two plugged ports on the top back of the tank. Only pic I have showing them.View attachment 4053167

I don’t think this is a period correct tank. No biggie but have to either find a better solution or replace with the right tank.
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I capped them off with those rubber end caps, but it looks like they've dried out and failed. I didn't put any adhesive on them when I put them on...just pushed them since they were tight enough not to slip off. I've found if you overfill or fill it up close to the top you'll get some fumes in the cab. I usually only put about 3/4 of tank in both of them...hope that helps.
 
Those caps/hose should have clamps IMHO. Even better connected to fuel/vapor separator unit and perhaps a charcoal can.
There is a guy here 3d printing the separator and posted it in the last few weeks.

I can fill my tank right up to the cap and have no gas fumes. Way back in the mid 80's my tank developed a weep. I did the alcohol proof fuel tank liner from JC Whitney. Has never leak or weeped since. The inside of the tank at that time was spotless.
 
I run the later tank that has the 3 vents tubes next to the fill hole and they are all capped. I do run a V8, which probably doesn't matter. . I found years ago those rubber caps dont last long. I use fuel line with bolts in the end. I agree with Charlie, use hose clamps. I don't get any fumes.
 
x3 on the rubber caps. For that application, anything but.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
Those caps/hose should have clamps IMHO. Even better connected to fuel/vapor separator unit and perhaps a charcoal can.
There is a guy here 3d printing the separator and posted it in the last few weeks.

I can fill my tank right up to the cap and have no gas fumes. Way back in the mid 80's my tank developed a weep. I did the alcohol proof fuel tank liner from JC Whitney. Has never leak or weeped since. The inside of the tank at that time was spotless.
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Yeah I’ve seen his posts. I’ll consider that route if re-plugging them won’t work.
 
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