60 distributor

[g-man]

Planning to pull and overhaul the distributor on my 87 fj60. I've already replaced the cap and rotor. I have the packing/dust seal oring and the lower o-ring on order. Mcgeorge toyota shows the signal generator 19250, the advancer 19220, and the pole piece assembly aka rotor 19181 all as available. I'll try and order them and see if they are really still available. Is there a source for the springs? What other parts should I be concerned with replacing? If I find the lower gear has wear is there a replacement? @4Cruisers, @FJ40Jim @OGBeno

 

[OSS]

Except for the cap, rotor and outer o-ring, I wasn’t aware that any other parts were still available.

 

[g-man]

might just be a system problem at toyota but I see this in my cart:

I cross checked these part#s with partsouq catalog they are correct for my vehicle/vin.
the first one is "generator" but I've seen this same mispelling at different toyota online dealerships so I guess they all use the same software. And I have seen these parts listed available at other online dealers. Not sure anymore whether to believe any of them though.

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Product Description	Price	Quantity	Total
	Gerotor Assembly Product ID: 19250-61102 Remove	$131.48	Quantity	$131.48
	Distributor Pole Piece Assembly Product ID: 1918170010 Remove	$75.96	Quantity	$75.96
	Distributor Vacuum Advance Product ID: 19220-61102 Remove	$116.15	Quantity	$116.15
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[g-man]

And while we're talking about dizzy's, the "toyota" cap I just ordered from McGeorge was black with skinny screws around the outside edge. The part was made in malasia or taiwan. Amazing that toyota is selling "Toyota OEM parts" that they are buying from China. WTF? I kept my old orange/red looking one for storage...the plastic looks alot beefier and the contacts are probably better to. I should prob just clean it up and put it back on.

 

[g-man]

I just shot McGeorge a message online to see if they can verify that the parts are REALLY available BEFORE they take my order and leave me in limbo.

 

[OGBeno]

Those parts don't exist.

Secondarily, Toyota manufactures and sells, world-wide, many parts manufactured outside of Japan, including China, Taiwan, Thailand, Philippines, Vietnam, etc. They are not bogus if you are buying them from a Toyota dealership.

 

[g-man]

UGH!....SUCKS. Mcgeorge answered by email saying they are NLA. But they let me put them in my cart! so I wonder how longer would I have been in limbo if ordered?

Thank you BENO!

 

[g-man]

Except for the cap, rotor and outer o-ring, I wasn’t aware that any other parts were still available.

partsouq is sending me the dust proof packing...aka the big o ring that goes under the cap, and the housing o ring...the lower one.

 

[4Cruisers]

Celica (and other Toyota application) signal generators can be made to fit, there are decent quality new aftermarket parts available that are made in Japan. The springs usually are OK and don't need to be replaced, unless they're damaged while removing them. The rotor is usually also OK, I've been surprised how even really dirty/rusty rotors can be cleaned up to like-new condition. If one or more of the teeth is chipped, you may want to replace it with a good used one. And usually the breaker plate assembly can be cleaned up and re-greased so it rotates smoothly. Sometimes the races can be pitted and the ball bearings can have flat spots. If the races aren't too bad the pitting can be worked out with small files, and the ball bearings can be replaced. A worn gear can be replaced with a good used one - I've done several, using #6 drill rod stock (0.204" OD) for replacement pins.

 

[g-man]

Celica (and other Toyota application) signal generators can be made to fit, there are decent quality new aftermarket parts available that are made in Japan. The springs usually are OK and don't need to be replaced, unless they're damaged while removing them. The rotor is usually also OK, I've been surprised how even really dirty/rusty rotors can be cleaned up to like-new condition. If one or more of the teeth is chipped, you may want to replace it with a good used one. And usually the breaker plate assembly can be cleaned up and re-greased so it rotates smoothly. Sometimes the races can be pitted and the ball bearings can have flat spots. If the races aren't too bad the pitting can be worked out with small files, and the ball bearings can be replaced. A worn gear can be replaced with a good used one - I've done several, using #6 drill rod stock (0.204" OD) for replacement pins.

di-electric grease on the breaker plate? top side and underside? Just remove the springs with needle nose pliers and try not to stretch them? Sorry, although I've read thru the FSM on this, I have not yet torn one down.

 

[4Cruisers]

The breaker plate can be removed and easily disassembled for cleaning. I use a dull X-Acto knife blade to pry off the four clips - be careful doing this so you don't lose the 46 small ball bearings, do it over a bowl or tray. Tp reinstall the clips I use a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully pry them open a bit (after hooking the bottom of the clip over the bottom groove in the breaker plate assembly) and pulling the top of the clip into the top groove.

For the springs, I gently pop them off with the same dull X-Acto blade and small screwdriver.

I use old school distributor cam lubricant in my refurbishments, it's semi-still and doesn't run when it warms up and the internals start spinning.

 

[g-man]

this is what rockauto has for a pick up coil for 81 cressida and celica. It's a wve 4p1153 so this will work? minus having to trim the rubber grommet?

image:

 

[4Cruisers]

That will work fine. The only contemporary Toyota signal generators that won't work were used on Tercels - the signal generator is a reverse image.

 

[roadstr6]

These distributors are work horse works of art. The only things I have ever seen go bad are the vacuum diaphragm and the stop pin bushing. Before you go to the trouble of a full rebuild, check the diaphragm to see if it will hold vacuum. The diaphragms are NLA, but @4Cruisers may be able to hook you up with one that will work. I have been replacing the cracked and / missing stop pin bushings with a 1/4" aluminum spacer from Home Depot. I have never seen a signal generator that was bad.

 

[g-man]

These distributors are work horse works of art. The only things I have ever seen go bad are the vacuum diaphragm and the stop pin bushing. Before you go to the trouble of a full rebuild, check the diaphragm to see if it will hold vacuum. The diaphragms are NLA, but @4Cruisers may be able to hook you up with one that will work. I have been replacing the cracked and / missing stop pin bushings with a 1/4" aluminum spacer from Home Depot. I have never seen a signal generator that was bad.

This is good info. I have heard about the stop pin bushings going bad. I will look for cracks there. I too haven't heard much about 60 distributors going bad but hey, they are all 35 years old and nothing last forever. Best to have a plan of attack if and when they fail. But I am hesitant to replace a good oem part (ie the signal generator) with a new aftermarket part. In my experience original parts last several times longer than aftermarket for most things. I'll test my signal generator and visually inspect the condition of it. If there is any question about it's condition I may get the aftermarket part and just keep it on hand in the vehicle.

 

[4Cruisers]

Signal generator resistance measured at the connector should be between 100 and 200 ohms. Most of those I've tested (over 15 or 20) have been in the 160 to 170 ohm range.

 

[g-man]

where is the stop pin bushing in the image. Taking the generator cover off ...is it just removing 2 torx screws on the side of the cover and pulling it up?

 

[4Cruisers]

The location of the stop pin bushing is not shown in the diagram you posted. Here is a more complete diagram. The stop pin is the 3rd, shorter pin at the top of the distributor shaft assembly. The bushing was never identified as a separate part.

The signal generator cover can be pried off the generator with a small screwdriver at the lower right corner, it lifts right off.

 

[cps432]

TOYOTA, more than ever before...

In other news I ran my fuel lines on Saturday and got my electric fuel pump and filters set up. I know, I know zip ties aren’t great, but I couldn’t find anything locally that was acceptable to use. In the meantime I’ll run this set up. Hopefully, if everything is operational and I get it all...

forum.ih8mud.com

Post# 146 starts my dizzy recurve/refresh. Stop pin bushing came from ace. Something like 15 cents.

I disassembled the advance bearing ring and cleaned it really well. Everything was so sticky that the weights hardly even moved. The bearing was almost seized. I put a very small amount of grease in the bearings. It doesn’t travel very far at all. Only a few degrees so it may be unnecessary to lube it, but I did and it felt very smooth.

 

[g-man]

The location of the stop pin bushing is not shown in the diagram you posted. Here is a more complete diagram. The stop pin is the 3rd, shorter pin at the top of the distributor shaft assembly. The bushing was never identified as a separate part.

The signal generator cover can be pried off the generator with a small screwdriver at the lower right corner, it lifts right off.

View attachment 2974211

Ok, and I figured out the 2 star or torx screws are for setting the air gap. I reset mine at .251 mm. thats ok right? between .2 and .4 mm. I can kind of feel the magnetic force ...a tiny resistance on the shaft. So far I am unable to get down to the stop pin. My advancer retainer screw on the outside of the housing is rusted in place. I'll spray it down with PB blaster for a few days. The shaft spin very smoothly ...I guess my bearings are probably good. My generator tested out at 161 ohms between 150 and 200 so I guess that is good. Sucking by mouth on a short piece of vacuum line I can pull the advancer arm but it's really hard to keep it there...it wants to return, Do I need more vacuum ...a hand held vacuum device?