A hand held device is preferable. Then you can see with a gauge if there are any leaks in the diaphragm.
60 distributor
- Thread starter g-man
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The original bushing on the stop pin was plastic and they seemed to last long enough, however most use Aluminum or Brass as a replacement.
@4Cruisers
For the dissy drive gear pin, do you use a particular hardness for the 0.204" drill stock?
Thanks
@4Cruisers
For the dissy drive gear pin, do you use a particular hardness for the 0.204" drill stock?
Thanks
I bought my drill stock from McMaster-Carr - it was listed as "Easy-to-Machine W1 Tool Steel Rods":
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
- Thread starter
- #25
Finally, after a few days of spraying pb blaster and trying different variations of screwdrivers, pliers, vice grips, I have managed to break it loose. I put a 12-point 5/16 box wrench over the head of the screw and drove it on with a hammer. Then, using a drift I tapped all around to make sure it was fully seated around the sides of the head of the screw. Then turning that, broke it free.
That had to be nerve wracking.
- Thread starter
- #27
yes, at one time I briefly put an impact screwdriver on it, hit the driver with a hammer, all the time praying I don't crack the dizzy housing as it sits in the vice. After 2 tries with light to moderate blows, I told myself to stop before I destroy an NLA distributor.
Wise
I've got about six to refurbish, but none have a working dual diaphragm advancer.
- Thread starter
- #30
Well my advancer needed some coaxing to come off even though the side screw was out. x-large vise grips around the edge with some twisting motion got it.
Finally got to the bottom and of course...the stop pin bushing is disintegrated. Off to lowes to look for the alunimum spacer. Thanks @roadstr6 .
Finally got to the bottom and of course...the stop pin bushing is disintegrated. Off to lowes to look for the alunimum spacer. Thanks @roadstr6 .
- Thread starter
- #31
If you are buying these in bulk and can send me one I would be interested. PM me.
- Thread starter
- #32
No aluminum spacer at lowes. Bought some 1/4 x1/4 nylon bushings but when I got home decided they might not do so good if they get hot. In the end I just cut a 1/4 inch piece of 1/4 inch copper line, smoothed the edges with an angle grinder and crimped it on the pin. The inside diameter was a bit larger than the pin but crimping it helped it to grab. It's a bit oviod but not dragging on anything and will still act as a stop.
- Thread starter
- #33
My breaker plate was grungier than I thought. When I got it out of the dizzy and turned by hand I knew I had to get into it. I used the white plastic top to a 16x24x4" storage bin that I've been using for an oil pan. The top was perfect. I turned it upside down so the outer edged lip turned up. I found a magnet useful in picking up all the bearings. Everything cleaned up and regreased and moves much better.
Good work! Are you still running smog gear?
- Thread starter
- #35
Partial desmog, No smog pump, air injectors are plugged, air manifold removed. ABV disconnected, AI vsv 1 and 2 disconnected. No lower BVSV. Jim C plugs on the air injector head holes, hoses capped on the air cleaner. Still working is the EGR system, HAI, HIC, HAC and EVAP system.
Got it all back together and running today. I expected to see some performance curve results but really it accelerates about the same. I didn't get a vacuum gauge but I probably should to check the advancer again. I'll probably just do it on the truck with it running to see if vacuum applied moves the bb off the indicator/pointer.
Not helpful for the rebuild, but I had some magnetic points put into my distributor years ago, and have never looked back.
Mine were from Pertronix and have been faultless, but I am sure there are others available also.
No modification to the actual distributor, just a straight replacement of the points mechanism, but no wearing of the points breaker pad, no regular adjustment, and just no wearing out.......
One of the best things I have ever done to my 62.
Mine were from Pertronix and have been faultless, but I am sure there are others available also.
No modification to the actual distributor, just a straight replacement of the points mechanism, but no wearing of the points breaker pad, no regular adjustment, and just no wearing out.......
One of the best things I have ever done to my 62.
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2007
- Threads
- 963
- Messages
- 19,508
this is a excellent TECH-Thread @g-man 
If you ditch that EGR system and recurve the dizzy with some new springs then you'll feel that change in the curve. You'll be able to run with more advance. I'm around 10.5 - 11 degrees and I've been pretty happy with it. My issues are related to the exhaust. I'll get that sorted out this week, but I expect to feel this truck really come alive once the exhaust is flowing properly and the o2 sensor is getting correct information.
If you have a hand held brake bleeder you can use it to add vac to the diaphragm and you'll see exactly where it maxes out and it will tell you if it holds vac too. Harbor freight unit works fine for testing those things. Not great as a brake bleeder though, ironically.
- Thread starter
- #39
I bought an EGR block off plate and intake adapter off Willard about 2 years ago. Just been hanging onto it while I think about getting a proper re-curve and modifying the carb. I saw roadstr6 post about using some summit kit with heavier springs. Although that may help I think there is more to a re-curve. Like putting it on a machine, changing the weights and dialing it in.
And what is involved in the carb changes? Just re-jetting (what size?) and blocking off some vacuum piping? Or do I just buy a Fuji carb?? Either way it seems like my brain gets exhausted thinking about doing this properly and how much it will cost.
Well, I installed the holley sniper so I am not the one to ask about modifying the carb. I think my old carb had a crack in the base of it that was the source of so many of my problems for many years. I suppose I could have installed an new dizzy from holley or some other manufacturer, but that sniper install, all together, cost more than I even care to count. Probably around $2500 after all the other mods I did "while I was in there". So a $20 set of springs and a little 1/4" spacer just to get it in the ball park was worth it I think. Certainly, having a dyno and being able to actually see what's happening on a graph would get you spot on. I know it's not cheap but Jim C is the one to send your carb and dizzy off to for a total setup. Until I pull this engine and have it completely overhauled I don't plan on doing anything else with the dizzy. If I ever get that 2F built up to Mosley specs then I will absolutely get the dizzy dialed in perfectly with everything else. I've read some amazing stories about a Hi Pro 2F with the sniper.
Build - The Rushing Turdle
Looks really good! I'd be worried about the extra leverage that the rack has on the mounting brackets since the weight won't be directly on top of them. I'm not an engineer, but I would think your weight capacity will decrease because of that.
forum.ih8mud.com
I followed this thread for my "ghetto" recurve. Post #154 Great build thread too btw.