4WD not working

[izzyandsue]

I called up cruiser outfitters today and spoke to an informative guy on the phone.

Unfortunately I'm not ready to purchase birfields and axles for 680 plus shipping just yet. I'm not saying the parts are not worth it, but I am saying I don't know that I have 680 for the axles and this may very well turn into a 2000$ repair in parts before I'm done.

He informed me that driving the vehicle around as it is without the CDL can damage the viscous coupler. I didn't price this out yet, but now learning all this is disconcerting. Who would want to damage this on purpose.

I'm all about doing my own work when I can and enjoy it, but this is not what I knowingly signed up for. I suppose owning one of these vehicles is a lot of DIY and TLC.

What do you all think? Is there a way to test the VC and front diff before tearing it apart? Is there anyway to get an idea of what needs to be done first? This could blow my budget for this truck.Parts seem to be a lot for these trucks. Sadly I may have togo back to 4x4s that are seemingly less complicated.

Post on the classifieds for a wanted used driver side birf (and shaft), I would send you my old one but threw them out already. Someone out out there might have some taking space on garage. Then all you need is seals and the job can be done and your mechanicals protected.

 

[b16]

Also, if your VC is toast you could always just remove it. Many people on here have done that by choice.
Tutorial: removing the viscous coupler (photos)

If it were me, I'd start the axle rebuild and pull everything out of that front end to see what condition everything else is in before buying any parts. Best case is you just need the 1 birf and have done an axle rebuild at the same time which is part of baselining the rig anyways.

 

[Sarmajor]

I suspect that you are also going to need the axle as well for that side, unless the end has been broken off the birfield and the rest of it is in the knuckle.
The axle can't live in the housing without the birfield to support it.
Diff locked axles may be slightly different to standard axles at least on one side.

 

[Rhino5000]

Post on the classifieds for a wanted used driver side birf (and shaft), I would send you my old one but threw them out already. Someone out out there might have some taking space on garage. Then all you need is seals and the job can be done and your mechanicals protected.

Alright I'm gonna get on it.
Thanks everyone!

 

[BILT4ME]

... once you get it you could just disconnect the front drive shaft and just completely isolate it for now...

No, you cannot remove your driveshaft and do this because you still have ONE drive flange turning an axle shaft by the WHEEL turning it. If you remove the DS, then the wheel will ONLY turn the axle and will continually spin the spiders in the diff and will smoke the diff. guaranteed.

Leave the DS on, just lock the CDL like you said (place in low, remove the fuse, shift to high) and then the DS and the wheel will spin the entire assembly like it should until you can gather the parts.

You will NOT burn up your VC by locking the CDL. That actually STOPS it from actuating and generating the heat that causes them to fail. And with one axle shaft missing, you don;t have the binding.

I agree on disassembling the ENTIRE axle and diff before ordering parts because God only knows what went on inside the front diff from the PO.

This is another one of those A-Hole PO's. Unbelievable.

 

[Tools R Us]

I agree with @Tools R Us. You should break everything apart and get a lay of the land instead of just replacing the 1 birf. The drive flange still looks in good condition so in my mind there is still a lingering issue somewhere. Peace of mind knowing that you have a fully functioning 4wd system with rebuilt front knuckles will be worth it when you are driving in dangerous conditions.

Guess I wasn't clear. I wouldn't take the whole thing apart, I recommended a quick and dirty, get a usable axle, put just enough into the install to have and hold lube, type job. Then put some miles on it, assess what works or not, with this info, go back into it. As of now there is no clear idea if the diff needs work and even if it were out, by looking at it, most wouldn't be able to tell if it will make noise. Don't even know if the axle is in there, could have broken a birf, taken the broken parts out, waded a rag over the end of the axle and drove.

Do it right and do it once (every 60k miles).

So you're saying; have a perfectly working axle, at 60K mi take it apart, for what possible reason? I don't know that my driver side has ever been apart, at close to 200K mi, it's starting to get messy, so I took it wheeling today! Yes, I'm keeping an eye on it, adding grease, will be resealing it soonish, but not before it goes wheeling on Thursday and likely next Wednesday!

 

[Tools R Us]

The VC is an over complicated clunk dampener. Have taken a bunch of them out, most "functioned" fine when removed.

 

[Blade 80LC]

If you can't find a used birf and axle, and don't want to buy top quality parts, you try to find something cheap on eBay. OEM Toyota Land Cruiser Fzj80 Front Axle Shaft Short Side Right

 

[izzyandsue]

Alright I'm gonna get on it.
Thanks everyone!

Sorry as you are probably tired of people telling you what to do, but I know most mean well and are just helping. With that in mind, I have another suggestion from a recent club meeting. Not sure of your location, but reach out to a local LC club if you have one. There is always a guy or two in the club that hordes old stuff (I gave my old birfs to him) and anytime a member is stranded or limping, they find the used part to at least get them going again. If you have a club (i.e. in NC is the Old North State Cruisers Club), they may have have a stash of old used worn birfs and hardware that are no good for off roading, but will work temporarily for pavement.

 

[duggy]

So you're saying; have a perfectly working axle, at 60K mi take it apart, for what possible reason? I don't know that my driver side has ever been apart, at close to 200K mi, it's starting to get messy, so I took it wheeling today! Yes, I'm keeping an eye on it, adding grease, will be resealing it soonish, but not before it goes wheeling on Thursday and likely next Wednesday!

Yeah, I am suggesting that because the FSM calls for a front knuckle service every 60k.

 

[Tools R Us]

Yeah, I am suggesting that because the FSM calls for a front knuckle service every 60k.

Please post that reference from the FSM.

 

[duggy]

I can't find the exact page of the FSM currently, but it is referenced plenty here on Mud. I don't daily drive my Cruisers, so I have never hit the 2nd knuckle rebuild service on any of them but I do keep an eye on fluid levels and check my wheel bearings for play.

I am still curious to see if the OP obtaining a birf and a shaft will resolve his problems, or if he will have further issues down the road. I have a spare birf that has play in the cage that can used to diagnose the issue, but he would still need an axle shaft.

 

[Rhino5000]

I think this site is awesome and can't believe how good you guys are at getting to it and figuring it out. Much appreciated!

I know for sure I need a birf and probably an axle. My plan right now is to at least buy those and get in there. I'm concerned once i do get in there I'll need gasket and seals. Also there's the concern I'll find crumpled dust material where my diff and VC used to be. Considering the PO left me a paper towel inside the flange...

Unfortunately there's no off road clubs that I could find near here.

 

[SmokingRocks]

I have a perfectly functioning VC if you need one. I wish I hadn't taken it out, liked the way it drove off road and on snow with it in better than with it out. I find myself locking the center a lot more now than before. The VC would get me through the areas where a little power transfer to the front or rear was all that was needed.

 

[jfz80]

Where is here? Kingston area?


Check the classifieds and parting out section here on mud.

Parting Out...

Classifieds - Axle/Suspension

 

[Tools R Us]

I can't find the exact page of the FSM currently, but it is referenced plenty here on Mud. ...

Don't feel bad, no one else has ever been able to find it! Lots of people on Mud parrot myths and do useless, unnecessary stuff to their rigs, doesn't mean it's needed. The birf needs grease, the diff needs oil, as long as those two are not significantly mixing or pouring on the ground, good to go. When the seals leak, they need to be replaced, replacing good seals is not productive.

 

[SmokingRocks]

My passenger side seals tend to give up the ghost every 30k

 

[Tools R Us]

I have a perfectly functioning VC if you need one. I wish I hadn't taken it out, liked the way it drove off road and on snow with it in better than with it out. I find myself locking the center a lot more now than before. The VC would get me through the areas where a little power transfer to the front or rear was all that was needed.

There is no need for regret, it's simple to put back in. I don't miss it at all, but don't drive in slop often. When I do, I simply hit the button locking the CDL, the same as I did when I had the VC. The '91-92 rigs didn't have it and it was removed from the same transfer on the '100, so should give some idea of it's usefulness.

 

[SmokingRocks]

True I understand, I also like knowing that I have a bigger oil reserve in there without it. But I don't like driving all over with my CDL locked when its slushy because sometimes you are on snow and other times you are on pavement. Also I don't like spinning the rig up to 50-60mph with the CDL locked (yes this is possible and often the case on the interstates here when there is light snow). The VC does 40% of what the CDL does in these conditions, which is just enough to maintain control. Also the 100's got Trac, which is considered a + or a - depending on who you talk to.

On packed snow the power goes straight to the front wheels without the VC. This inhibits turning as well as acceleration and on an interstate this can produce undesired characteristics. Locking the CDL tends to kick the back end out in the same condition, again not desirable on the interstates. The VC held a happy balance between the two. These are just one mans observations YMMV.

Don't underestimate the VC, I did the entire Golden Spike Trail with just the VC+F&R lockers because I had accidentally swapped the ECT and CDL plugs when I had the dash out right before it.

 

[Rhino5000]

If you can't find a used birf and axle, and don't want to buy top quality parts, you try to find something cheap on eBay. OEM Toyota Land Cruiser Fzj80 Front Axle Shaft Short Side Right

This gentleman tells me that this part will work for my 96 LC if I also change the drive flange (which he also has). My truck has front lockers. Does this sound like a good idea?

I want to get this done and not be driving it possibly causing more damage. I locked the CDL pulled the fuse, put if back in H and it drives like a normal vehicle. Where before it was very slow to start. I thought 1st gear was going.