Probably just broke the other birfield and threw it back together. If your dif was bad it would be letting you know since the driveline is still hooked up. Probably just throw an axle in it and you will be fine.
4WD not working
- Thread starter Rhino5000
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- Thread starter
- #42
So to do that order a 96 LC birfield and install it? Is it ok to do just one side?
Also there's a lot of talk of 7 pin mod to by pass certain systems. Could that be an element here?
Thanks lot
Yeah I would just do the axle. You can just replace the side that's missing and go from there. You will need that whole side axle. No biggie. I got my spare from a wrecking yard for 50 bucks. Kind of a pain to install but not big if you know the difference between a wrench and a socket, and as long as your up do getting dirty. There is a lot of "while your in there" stuff that we all get caught up in but you could just throw it in and go.
At this point you are rebuilding that axle side and at a minimum having to purchase a new birfield and axle shaft. I'm sorry man, that sucks.
jeeeeez, i would love to see the craigslist ad for this...
crazy this kind of thing isn't disclosed...
crazy this kind of thing isn't disclosed...
Glad you got a handle on this. I'd give the previous owner a piece of my mind thats for sure.
There are lots of axle rebuild posts, but you can start here
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks for all the help everyone.
It's pretty damn annoying especially since i wanted this truck just for snow, but I'll keep moving forward with. I'll let you all know after I purchase one and install it.
I see birfield sold by themselves. Is that all I need for now?
It's pretty damn annoying especially since i wanted this truck just for snow, but I'll keep moving forward with. I'll let you all know after I purchase one and install it.
I see birfield sold by themselves. Is that all I need for now?
I recommend contacting Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters, tell him your situation and they can hook you up. You may need a few seals too. He may see this thread and respond too.
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That will do it!
Without the axle, it was running on the VC, so had some/a lot of slip. Before being fixed, if you need to drive it, would lock the cdl. Don't need the switch, shift low range to lock, then remove the diff fuse, shift high and drive, when you want unlocked, simply replace the fuse. With the fuse out, the axle lockers will not work.
The "right" way to repair it would be a full knuckle reseal. With your deal, not knowing if there are other issues, possibly having to go back in. I would get a birf/axle assembly, and the axle seal, pull the spindle, put a new axle seal, assemble with plenty of moly grease and see what works. Then depending on what you have, do it right. I would order the Knuckle seal kit (will need it eventually) from Cruiser Outfitters and get a couple of extra axle seals (for use now).
Draining the front diff should shed some light on diff condition, what does the fluid look like, does the magnet have chunks, etc. It is likely low, no sense in doing anything with it now, without an axle, the fluid will run out the hole where the axle should be. Do this when you install the axle.
One of the u-joints pictured has rust coming out of it, would be a good idea to get some grease in there, stat. I'm somewhat tolerant of brake rotor texture, but one of the ones posted looks to be past even my level of comfort?
Without the axle, it was running on the VC, so had some/a lot of slip. Before being fixed, if you need to drive it, would lock the cdl. Don't need the switch, shift low range to lock, then remove the diff fuse, shift high and drive, when you want unlocked, simply replace the fuse. With the fuse out, the axle lockers will not work.The "right" way to repair it would be a full knuckle reseal. With your deal, not knowing if there are other issues, possibly having to go back in. I would get a birf/axle assembly, and the axle seal, pull the spindle, put a new axle seal, assemble with plenty of moly grease and see what works. Then depending on what you have, do it right. I would order the Knuckle seal kit (will need it eventually) from Cruiser Outfitters and get a couple of extra axle seals (for use now).
Draining the front diff should shed some light on diff condition, what does the fluid look like, does the magnet have chunks, etc. It is likely low, no sense in doing anything with it now, without an axle, the fluid will run out the hole where the axle should be. Do this when you install the axle.
One of the u-joints pictured has rust coming out of it, would be a good idea to get some grease in there, stat. I'm somewhat tolerant of brake rotor texture, but one of the ones posted looks to be past even my level of comfort?
I agree with @Tools R Us. You should break everything apart and get a lay of the land instead of just replacing the 1 birf. The drive flange still looks in good condition so in my mind there is still a lingering issue somewhere. Peace of mind knowing that you have a fully functioning 4wd system with rebuilt front knuckles will be worth it when you are driving in dangerous conditions. Do it right and do it once (every 60k miles).
- Thread starter
- #54
Just kidding not giving up yet. I see the 30a fuse thats to the left of the steering will is still in. So what i should do continuing driving it is lock the CDL remove it ans shift back to H?
that sux dude. I had a feeling from the get go it was a 'part time' kinda situation. Just wish the situation was a lil more favorable for ya.
- Thread starter
- #57
I called up cruiser outfitters today and spoke to an informative guy on the phone.
Unfortunately I'm not ready to purchase birfields and axles for 680 plus shipping just yet. I'm not saying the parts are not worth it, but I am saying I don't know that I have 680 for the axles and this may very well turn into a 2000$ repair in parts before I'm done.
He informed me that driving the vehicle around as it is without the CDL can damage the viscous coupler. I didn't price this out yet, but now learning all this is disconcerting. Who would want to damage this on purpose.
I'm all about doing my own work when I can and enjoy it, but this is not what I knowingly signed up for. I suppose owning one of these vehicles is a lot of DIY and TLC.
What do you all think? Is there a way to test the VC and front diff before tearing it apart? Is there anyway to get an idea of what needs to be done first? This could blow my budget for this truck.Parts seem to be a lot for these trucks. Sadly I may have togo back to 4x4s that are seemingly less complicated.
Unfortunately I'm not ready to purchase birfields and axles for 680 plus shipping just yet. I'm not saying the parts are not worth it, but I am saying I don't know that I have 680 for the axles and this may very well turn into a 2000$ repair in parts before I'm done.
He informed me that driving the vehicle around as it is without the CDL can damage the viscous coupler. I didn't price this out yet, but now learning all this is disconcerting. Who would want to damage this on purpose.
I'm all about doing my own work when I can and enjoy it, but this is not what I knowingly signed up for. I suppose owning one of these vehicles is a lot of DIY and TLC.
What do you all think? Is there a way to test the VC and front diff before tearing it apart? Is there anyway to get an idea of what needs to be done first? This could blow my budget for this truck.Parts seem to be a lot for these trucks. Sadly I may have togo back to 4x4s that are seemingly less complicated.
getting your CDL is easy... just pick up a hazard switch from a corolla of the appropriate year on ebay... i think i paid < $10 for mine out of a 4runner, maybe 12 or 14 after shipping...
or if you've got a pick 'n pull close
that'll buy you some time until you figure out what to do with your front axle... once you get it you could just disconnect the front drive shaft and just completely isolate it for now...
- Thread starter
- #59
Hmm I think it will lock once i put it in L and will remain locked when I pull the fuse and put back in H
Would you suggest isolating the front now by taking off the front drive shaft? To prevent anymore damage up front
oh yes, you're right, i just noticed you already knew that trick...
i think once it's locked you've taken care of the possibility of burning up your VC... who knows about the front driveshaft... but it's pretty easy to take out so why not...