460 on 35's

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Alright. I need help. Here is what I've got:

2016 GX460
- Dobinsons 2.5" IMS lift
- SPC UCAs
- Front and rear bumper cuts
- Dobinsons Dual Drawer System ( heavy AF )
- JW Off Road steel roof rack
- iKamper mini
- Quite a bit of camping gear, fridge and anywhere from 4-12 gallons of water

The lift goes on September 15th and I need to make a decision on wheels / tires. My initial plan was General Grabber X3s in 285/70r17 but I'm worried that with the bumper cuts they will look too small ( yes, looks matter a little to me ). I do not plan on re gearing any time soon, if ever, and I'm curious what kind of wheel / tire combo ya'll recommend that is larger than a 33" but will have the least impact on performance?

I'm coming from a 3rd Gen Tacoma with same weight gain, plus 33s, and it drove like s*** on hills while constantly searching for gears... although the tranny in those trucks suck to begin with. I'm in east Tennessee but we plan on doing yearly trips out west and I thought my poor Tacoma was going to blow up driving through Colorado hills last March.

EDIT

A 285/70r17 Grabber X3 is 66lbs compared to a 285/75r17 KO2 at 61lbs and 315/70r17 KO2s at 64lbs.... So, would I see more power loss with the X3s than either KO2 or would the height increase negate that?
 
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Alright. I need help. Here is what I've got:

2016 GX460
- Dobinsons 2.5" IMS lift
- SPC UCAs
- Front and rear bumper cuts
- Dobinsons Dual Drawer System ( heavy AF )
- JW Off Road steel roof rack
- iKamper mini
- Quite a bit of camping gear, fridge and anywhere from 4-12 gallons of water

The lift goes on September 15th and I need to make a decision on wheels / tires. My initial plan was General Grabber X3s in 285/70r17 but I'm worried that with the bumper cuts they will look too small ( yes, looks matter a little to me ). I do not plan on re gearing any time soon, if ever, and I'm curious what kind of wheel / tire combo ya'll recommend that is larger than a 33" but will have the least impact on performance?

I'm coming from a 3rd Gen Tacoma with same weight gain, plus 33s, and it drove like s*** on hills while constantly searching for gears... although the tranny in those trucks suck to begin with. I'm in east Tennessee but we plan on doing yearly trips out west and I thought my poor Tacoma was going to blow up driving through Colorado hills last March.

EDIT

A 285/70r17 Grabber X3 is 66lbs compared to a 285/75r17 KO2 at 61lbs and 315/70r17 KO2s at 64lbs.... So, would I see more power loss with the X3s than either KO2 or would the height increase negate that?
Use this calculator on each tire you plan to use, record results, and compare. It’s near bottom of page. The more you play with it (including wheel/rim weight) the more you get a feel for the impact.


Also, your vehicle weights X amount, any weight you add to it, is a hit to the ability of the engine to move that weight, so it needs to be accounted for too. Say vehicle weights 4000 lbs, you add 1000 lbs of stuff. That’s (5000/4000 - 1)/100 = 25% decrease performance. Add the % decrease that the above link also adds, and you could be looking at 25%+10%=35% decrease in power. Run the numbers.

edit: if you plan to drive at elevation, decrease that entire number above by 3% for every 1000ft. So if you are driving at 10,000 ft in above example, it would be (100-35) x 70% = 45%. So if you had a 330 hp engine before tires + weight + altitude, it would equivalent of 330 * 0.45 = 149 hp after all that. Which would explain why the taco drove like s***. New gears are your friend.
 
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Use this calculator on each tire you plan to use, record results, and compare. It’s near bottom of page. The more you play with it (including wheel/rim weight) the more you get a feel for the impact.


Also, your vehicle weights X amount, any weight you add to it, is a hit to the ability of the engine to move that weight, so it needs to be accounted for too. Say vehicle weights 4000 lbs, you add 1000 lbs of stuff. That’s (5000/4000 - 1)/100 = 25% decrease performance. Add the % decrease that the above link also adds, and you could be looking at 25%+10%=35% decrease in power. Run the numbers.

edit: if you plan to drive at elevation, decrease that entire number above by 3% for every 1000ft. So if you are driving at 10,000 ft in above example, it would be (100-35) x 70% = 45%. So if you had a 330 hp engine before tires + weight + altitude, it would equivalent of 330 * 0.45 = 149 hp after all that. Which would explain why the taco drove like s***. New gears are your friend.
Never seen that website before, great little link!
Can you add it to the GX 460 Manuals sticky thread: GX 460 Manuals - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gx-460-manuals.1129713/
I think that should be a go-to for many who are upgrading to larger tires and ask the age old tire size vs performance questions.
 
I want me some 35s after seeing this. Now I need help fitting some 35x12.50r17s

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It’s been a while since posting. I appreciate all of the comments. My process in getting my 35s to fit has been both fun and a bit extensive. The Mastercraft MXTs measure very true to size and a bit wider so it’s a bigger 35 than others. I finally ran the truck through it’s off road paces and it runs full articulation without rubbing but it required some work. It’s nothing I wouldn’t do again but it takes some commitment. Here are some pics and I’ll post the full list with accompanying pics in the coming day or two. My sliders finally arrived so those are going on as well.

As for re-gearing, I’m positive it would improve the drive a lot. It’s just not something I’m personally finding an immediate need for at the moment. I’m averaging same as the re-geared folks with MPG; about 13 city and 16-17 highway. The power does not seem lacking in any way. The only complaint is using cruise control as even a minor hill on the highway requires a downshift. This is honestly the worst cruise control I’ve ever used anyways. It searches for the right gear and isn’t smooth about it. My 4Runner was the same.

8D098814-21ED-444C-B8AE-F0A9616C6638.jpeg


8D098814-21ED-444C-B8AE-F0A9616C6638.jpeg


ADFE94F7-15CE-4ABE-9332-26254615C338.jpeg


7B0CFDC2-B32D-4E88-9365-D2A1F441EEF1.jpeg


71F26476-2DD3-40AB-9972-B5409FD846B2.jpeg


F6AEF87C-14C9-4561-AD6F-C4DD7CE87143.jpeg
 
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Nice!

I need to see more 14’+ years and see what exactly was trimmed. I’m pretty set on 35s right now. I have a pretty aggressive BMC and trimmed up some plastic but I’m sure I’ll need to smash the pinch weld and remove more plastic.
 
Nice!

I need to see more 14’+ years and see what exactly was trimmed. I’m pretty set on 35s right now. I have a pretty aggressive BMC and trimmed up some plastic but I’m sure I’ll need to smash the pinch weld and remove more plastic.
I’m sure you’ll have to do a good deal of trimming on that massively big plastic front facia. My BMC wasn’t initially aggressive enough using the MetalTech kit. My welder did a custom chop which I thought wasn’t necessary but I’ve needed every bit of it.

On another site, I’ve seen someone say that 35s fit with a 17x9 -12 offset wheel and only minor trimming on a 14’+. Maybe for mall crawling, but pinch welds also have to get pounded in for sure.
 
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Love the look of 35's and had them on my 100 series LC, but I think I'll just stay with my 285/75R17's at 33.9" O.D.
Cheaper and no rubbing.
 
I’m sure you’ll have to do a good deal of trimming on that massively big plastic front facia. My BMC wasn’t initially aggressive enough using the MetalTech kit. My welder did a custom chop which I thought wasn’t necessary but I’ve needed every bit of it.

On another site, I’ve seen someone say that 35s fit with a 17x9 -12 offset wheel and only minor trimming on a 14’+. Maybe for mall crawling, but pinch welds also have to get pounded in for sure.
I have a pretty aggressive BMC and front already cut up. I’ll need to do the pinch weld for sure. I have 17x8.5 -10 so I’m good. I’m also considering the 285/75r17s at 34” and narrower.
 
I was very much on the fence and the 285/75s look nice. I just knew that I would regret not making the extra leap this time around. Plus, with a lot of guys having to do the BMC and pinch welds anyways I figured I might as well jump in head first. I’m glad I did but I doubt there is a massive difference to the eye on the two tire sizes.
 
...The only complaint is using cruise control as even a minor hill on the highway requires a downshift. This is honestly the worst cruise control I’ve ever used anyways. It searches for the right gear and isn’t smooth about it. My 4Runner was the same....
This is SO spot-on, and not a function of the 35's at all. The CC on this rig just flat out sucks. It was the first (and really only) negative thing we've seen so far, and it got noticed on the drive home through the flatlands on I-20. Not sure if/when Toyota updated it after my MY '11, but it seems to be the exact same module/logic/buttons \function that was on my '95 80 series, and '00 100, and '04 100, and...
 
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This is SO spot-on, and not a function of the 35's at all. The CC on this rig just flat out sucks. It was the first (and really only) negative thing we've seen so far, and it got noticed on the drive home through the flatlands on I-20. Not sure if/when Toyota updated it after my MY '11, but it seems to be the exact same module/logic/buttons \function that was on my '95 80 series, and '00 100, and '04 100, and...
As of 2016 I can tell you they hadn't fixed it! And the same crap cruise control tuning has been present on every Toyota I've ever owned. They need to fire their controls engineering group and bring in some people who understand how to tune a PID loop.
 
This is SO spot-on, and not a function of the 35's at all. The CC on this rig just flat out sucks. It was the first (and really only) negative thing we've seen so far, and it got noticed on the drive home through the flatlands on I-20. Not sure if/when Toyota updated it after my MY '11, but it seems to be the exact same module/logic/buttons \function that was on my '95 80 series, and '00 100, and '04 100, and...
We had the same cruise control on our 1991 Toyota Previa mini van! (and both our '98 Hundy's)
 
Not much skin in the game here, as I’m only on 32s now. But I’m scheming on upgrading. Thought I would be getting 285/75/17s but just found the maxxis AT in a 35x11.5x17… interesting proposition, got me thinking. I believe Nitto makes an MT in the same size. Wondering if anyone has run them? I’ve seen people with 35x10.5 but not a fan of the skinny tire for a few reasons.
Also considering 295/75/17 if that’s even a thing.

 
Not much skin in the game here, as I’m only on 32s now. But I’m scheming on upgrading. Thought I would be getting 285/75/17s but just found the maxxis AT in a 35x11.5x17… interesting proposition, got me thinking. I believe Nitto makes an MT in the same size. Wondering if anyone has run them? I’ve seen people with 35x10.5 but not a fan of the skinny tire for a few reasons.
Also considering 295/75/17 if that’s even a thing.

Nice find. Might consider these over the 12.50 width
 
Not much skin in the game here, as I’m only on 32s now. But I’m scheming on upgrading. Thought I would be getting 285/75/17s but just found the maxxis AT in a 35x11.5x17… interesting proposition, got me thinking. I believe Nitto makes an MT in the same size. Wondering if anyone has run them? I’ve seen people with 35x10.5 but not a fan of the skinny tire for a few reasons.
Also considering 295/75/17 if that’s even a thing.

I saw those in my research but the load range E was a massive turnoff for me. Cool alternate size option though.
 

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