460 on 35's

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I've been running 35x11.5x17s for several years now. It's about as big as you can feasibly go without major alterations. Not sure I would do it for a DD but I am happy with it for a dedicated trail rig. Not sure which "things" you are asking about, it impacts lots of things. You need the right wheel offset, UCAs, washer bottle relocate, pinch weld massage, wheel well liner trim, LCA cam bolt adjustment to move the tire forward, front bumper, suspension lift (and all that entails) come to mind, and maybe a reinforced spindle if you are going to wheel it...

I do have somewhat accelerated tire wear in the front due to all these changes, most probably due to the LCA adjustment. My alignment shop insisted on moving the wheel back an inch or so to get proper alignment, and I said screw that I need the clearance and moved them all the way forward again.
Well that's certainly daunting.

I have 0 offset wheels, Ironman UCAs, BMC, lift, front bumper... but haven't done the washer bottle relocation and really don't want to start down the path of reinforcing the spindles, know that's a slippery slope
 
Was playing with this gear calculator.
You can swap your bad A760 with ZF 8HP70 and run almost identical RPM on the highway with 35" tire without regearing. Who is going to do this😉

Screenshot_20260501-183927.webp



Screenshot_20260501-183949.webp
 
Was playing with this gear calculator.
You can swap your bad A760 with ZF 8HP70 and run almost identical RPM on the highway with 35" tire without regearing. Who is going to do this😉

View attachment 4140409


View attachment 4140410
Not actually really serious, but I have thought about it. My car has 180k and rising, so I figure it’s only a matter of time for the trans, even though I have had a cooler and done 25k drain and fills for almost the last 100k.

There exists a UR motor to 8hp tranny adapter plate, but to my knowledge one does not exist for the 8hp tranny to our transfer case. Once this is had, some electrical stuff and a trans controller and we would be on our way. There is a great 100 series thread with a guy doing it, with lots of info. If it can done in a 100, then we could figure it out as well.
 
Not actually really serious, but I have thought about it. My car has 180k and rising, so I figure it’s only a matter of time for the trans, even though I have had a cooler and done 25k drain and fills for almost the last 100k.

There exists a UR motor to 8hp tranny adapter plate, but to my knowledge one does not exist for the 8hp tranny to our transfer case. Once this is had, some electrical stuff and a trans controller and we would be on our way. There is a great 100 series thread with a guy doing it, with lots of info. If it can done in a 100, then we could figure it out as well.
Domiworks have a transfer case adapter for our case but not recommended at all at this time.
1. It requires full teardown of the transmission to have the output spline modified
2. My friend in Finland found out the transmission rub the front driveshaft.
Screenshot_20260514-150208~2.webp

3. On GX470 the forward shifter of the transfer case does noth have a mount. You would need to fabricate custom mount for it.
 
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Domiworks have a transfer case adapter for our case but not recommended at all at this time.
1. It requires full teardown of the transmission to have the output spline modified
2. My friend in Finland found out the transmission rub the front driveshaft.
View attachment 4140438
3. On GX470 the forward shifter of the transfer case does noth have a mount. You would need to fabricate custom mount for it.
Good to know. Last time I looked at domiworks, they had not released the transfer case kit yet.
 
Well that's certainly daunting.

I have 0 offset wheels, Ironman UCAs, BMC, lift, front bumper... but haven't done the washer bottle relocation and really don't want to start down the path of reinforcing the spindles, know that's a slippery slope
Oh yeah, forgot about the BMC. And I wouldn't do it without regearing either. I know people have run 35s without regearing but that severely impacts your towing capacity and puts a lot of additional stress on the transmission.

I tried doing the half-assed bumper trim etc. but it just wasn't capable enough for what I wanted to do off road, so I made the decision to go all-in on the 35s and front/rear bumpers etc.

You can see a full list of my mods here Build - Well I gone and done it: 2018 Premium Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/well-i-gone-and-done-it-2018-premium-build.1246065/post-14778125
They aren't all related to running 35s of course, but many of them directly or tangentially are related.
 
Oh yeah, forgot about the BMC. And I wouldn't do it without regearing either. I know people have run 35s without regearing but that severely impacts your towing capacity and puts a lot of additional stress on the transmission.

I tried doing the half-assed bumper trim etc. but it just wasn't capable enough for what I wanted to do off road, so I made the decision to go all-in on the 35s and front/rear bumpers etc.

You can see a full list of my mods here Build - Well I gone and done it: 2018 Premium Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/well-i-gone-and-done-it-2018-premium-build.1246065/post-14778125
They aren't all related to running 35s of course, but many of them directly or tangentially are related.
Your truck does look awesome on the 35"s.

Maybe I hold off on the 35"s for now. As badly as I want to give it a shot, it sounds like there might be some additional headaches that I'm not ready/willing to deal with just yet. Maybe once life is a little less hectic...
 
IMO money is better spent on re-gears and lockers as opposed to bigger tires :). One major benefit of the 460 you guys have is the 6th gear....with my 5 speed, 80 mph is 2,700 rpm with 4.56 gears and 33s. But, the rig rips and is a hoot to drive with that combination, and MPG with relatively unaffected (outside of goin 70+ mph on the interstate, when it is lower). With the 6th gear the negative impacts of a 4.56 or 4.88 regear would avoid the engine spinning so fast on the interstate.

In the future I'm going to get a 2nd set of wheels and run 34s or skinny 35s for wheeling while keeping lightweight 33s for daily driving and towing use.
 
IMO money is better spent on re-gears and lockers as opposed to bigger tires :). One major benefit of the 460 you guys have is the 6th gear....with my 5 speed, 80 mph is 2,700 rpm with 4.56 gears and 33s. But, the rig rips and is a hoot to drive with that combination, and MPG with relatively unaffected (outside of goin 70+ mph on the interstate, when it is lower). With the 6th gear the negative impacts of a 4.56 or 4.88 regear would avoid the engine spinning so fast on the interstate.

In the future I'm going to get a 2nd set of wheels and run 34s or skinny 35s for wheeling while keeping lightweight 33s for daily driving and towing use.
I heavily recommend the yoko g003 285-75r17s. They are a full fledged mud terrain carcass with more hybrid like tread performance.

They measure 34.1 new.

The picture enclosed is a Yoko g003 285-75r17 vs a Mickey Thompson Baja AT 255-85R17.

I tweaked the tire size until the numbers matched the manufactures measurement.

I may switch to the MT Baja ATs for snow/winter use.

My Hakkipilettas are getting cut up.

Screenshot_20260513_174352_Chrome.webp
 
I would add that my offroading club leadership side eyed me for looking at 35s becuse I am doing everything with 34s. But I am always looking for that extra 1%.
 
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