460 on 35's (13 Viewers)

[FireGuyBri]

Okay. I’ve got my 3”/2” Ironman lift on. Tires just arrived; 315/70-17s. I’m just hung up on wheels because I’m having a hard time deciding what I love.
Is a 17x9, -12 offset necessary to clear or for those who know, will a 17x9 0 offset still clear? I absolutely don’t want to add a spacer later down the line. Thanks!

 

[Harangatang]

Okay. I’ve got my 3”/2” Ironman lift on. Tires just arrived; 315/70-17s. I’m just hung up on wheels because I’m having a hard time deciding what I love.
Is a 17x9, -12 offset necessary to clear or for those who know, will a 17x9 0 offset still clear? I absolutely don’t want to add a spacer later down the line. Thanks!

Either will work just fine. Will just depend on how much poke you want outside the fenders. 12mm in offset difference is only 1/2" inch

 

[FireGuyBri]

Either will work just fine. Will just depend on how much poke you want outside the fenders. 12mm in offset difference is only 1/2" inch

You’ve been a massive help with this. Thanks! I like poke but I’m most concerned with what will allow the best clearance. 1/2” doesn’t seem like a big issue unless the clearance is that close where it would matter. It seems like people most complain about clearance with UCAs and the such (other than the body mount of course) so the negative offset would help there. If you’re saying it’s good then I’ll run with it. Like I said, you’ve been awesome.

 

[FireGuyBri]

Ran 35's (315's) ridge grapplers on my previous GX460 the entire time I owned it without issue. I'm used to fitting large wheels/tires onto my vehicles so I guess the process of cutting/trimming doesn't phase me any longer.

I never felt a regear was necessary whatsoever. Would it be nice? Sure. But not "needed". I was still making 15-16mpg mixed driving like an ass per usual. The truck just takes a bit too long to downshift for me on the highway so I usually drove in sport mode and shifted manually.

Arguably, after putting the Icon and Dobinsons on, I wager I had enough room to run the next size up with a bit more cutting.

17x7.5 Sequoia wheels w/ 1.25" spacers
- Ironman FCP set up, then Icon, then Dobinsons MRA + SPC UCAs - All with the 35"s
- BMC
- Slight trim on the lower trailing edge of the front bumper
- Moving or just completely removing the fender liners - I just pushed mine out of the way and zip tied them


Hope that helps!

View attachment 2707174View attachment 2707175View attachment 2707176

I’m fitting up the 35s tomorrow and prepping today. I see you have the rear trim piece removed. I’m wondering if I can just cut the mudflap and reinstall or if that must stay off. I know my setup is going to be different so some of it is wait and see. I did the viper cut to my front bumper. It’s aggressive AF but I like the tougher look of it.

 

[r2m]

Looking forward to see how those 35"s look on it!

 

[Lenny33]

Ummm - aren’t pics due yet?

 

[FireGuyBri]

My bad!!!

I have more trimming to do for sure and my body mount chop wasn’t done aggressively enough for the fit so I have to get back in there and cut more back. I’ll detail everything that went into making it work but I’m absolutely in love with it and it has all been worth it to fit these up.

I also have a failing inner tie rod so the alignment has to be put off until next week. The truck is going to sit for the coming days but here come pics…

 

[FireGuyBri]

My bad!!!

I have more trimming to do for sure and my body mount chop wasn’t done aggressively enough for the fit so I have to get back in there and cut more back. I’ll detail everything that went into making it work but I’m absolutely in love with it and it has all been worth it to fit these up.

I also have a failing inner tie rod so the alignment has to be put off until next week. The truck is going to sit for the coming days but here come pics…

Lift: Ironman Foam Cell Pro Stage 3, 3” front, 2” rear
Wheels: DirtyLife Canyon Pro 17x9, -12 offset
Tires: Mastercraft Courser MXT 315/70-17

 

[FireGuyBri]

View attachment 2738947

View attachment 2738948

View attachment 2738949

View attachment 2738950

View attachment 2738951

 

[Washingtontaco]

Time for some 4:88 gears.

 

[FireGuyBri]

Granted I haven’t driven it much yet, I really am not thinking it’s gonna be fully necessary. My previous vehicle, a 5th Gen 4Runner, had a total weight setup of 93 lbs with the wheels and 33” tires I had on it. That weight never gave me any issues so my goal was to stay as close to that as possible. So I obsessed over weight and quality which lead me to the wheel and tire choices I made. I came in at 92 lbs with these 35s so one pound lighter with a stronger engine and an extra drive gear…we’ll see but I’m thinking I probably will be perfectly fine as it sits. Time will tell and I’ll report back once I start stacking miles.

 

[Washingtontaco]

Granted I haven’t driven it much yet, I really am not thinking it’s gonna be fully necessary. My previous vehicle, a 5th Gen 4Runner, had a total weight setup of 93 lbs with the wheels and 33” tires I had on it. That weight never gave me any issues so my goal was to stay as close to that as possible. So I obsessed over weight and quality which lead me to the wheel and tire choices I made. I came in at 92 lbs with these 35s so one pound lighter with a stronger engine and an extra drive gear…we’ll see but I’m thinking I probably will be perfectly fine as it sits. Time will tell and I’ll report back once I start stacking miles.

If you only drive in town then sure, but you went from 30.5” and 3:90 gears to 34.3” and 3:90 gears. The math is not in your favor. You will rarely ever be in 6th gear above 50 mph.

 

[FireGuyBri]

If you only drive in town then sure, but you went from 30.5” and 3:90 gears to 34.3” and 3:90 gears. The math is not in your favor. You will rarely ever be in 6th gear above 50 mph.

If you only drive in town then sure, but you went from 30.5” and 3:90 gears to 34.3” and 3:90 gears. The math is not in your favor. You will rarely ever be in 6th gear above 50 mph.

I appreciate it a lot. I’ll watch and be mindful of what the transmission is doing and report back. I’ll be doing multiple trips out to Colorado and Utah to name a few. Road performance matters a bit to me.

 

[r2m]

Have to admit, those 35's do look awesome!
Regarding regearing, the pros of a regear:

• Better acceleration.
• Bring back the RPM's close to what was stock at highway speeds.
• It will be huge when climbing some of those Colorado and Utah grades!
• Better towing (if you do trailers)
• Better MPG. Yes, even if you're RPM's are a little higher, you're not having your foot in the throttle as deep trying to make those tall gears keep your vehicle up to speed.
• Less "hunting" for gears in cruise control on grades.
• If you are going to regear with both diff's open and should you have a little extra $$, go and do the front and (or at least) rear lockers!
• With lockers you'll also have a compressor to boot!
• And of course with the lockers all around better trail traction.

The negatives:

• Cost.
• Oh, and did I mention $$$

Just my 2¢, but drive it and see how it feels. For a fact you WILL notice your acceleration will suck, especially when trying to pass slow moving vehicles on 2 lane highways.

 

[double0jimb0]

My 2015 GX460 is running Toyo AT3 35x11.50 on 0" offset, 4.88s, 3" Toytec Aluma 2.5 F/R, BMC, PCK, SPC upper, KDSS spacers, sliders, rear e-locker, 1" body lift, rear airbags. I live in Denver, and I tow a 4k lb (wet) camping trailer.

I never drove the truck with the 35s without the 4.88s, but I can not imagine it being a good experience at altitude while towing or even general driving. With the 4.88s, I can maintain traffic speed on all pass climbs with the trailer, but that's it. Stock gearing would be putting ~25% less torque to the ground, so I doubt I'd be able to break 35/40 mph on the up hills without the gears and AT would get even hotter.

I tried running the truck without the 1" BL, and there were rub issues in front and rear mud flaps. When BL went on, removed rear mud flaps, cut out room around the washer fluid reservoir in front, that solved all rub and the truck now fully stuffs without rub.

Only thing I would change is the Aluma 2.5, I think they run a bit firm, not like 1-ton without load harsh, but a sports car. I don't have any extra armor/weight, maybe these were spec'd for a fully armored truck. Cornering is flat, is as easy to drive as stock. Gears make a bit of noise, but not intrusive, and I can't hear the Toyos, only the gears.

Future plans include OEM (or similar) tranny cooler. On long climbs, if truck is in 3rd and no TC lockup, TC temps will hit 260+ on long climb, and it's tripped the 3rd gear TC lockup override before (I don't want to make this a regular occurrence). AT temp has been high 230s. Extra cooler won't stop the heat soak, but will slow it down. If you did this without gears, I think you'd get really hot really quick.

And finally, I used to tow a 5k lbs trailer with huge frontal area, and that was not great, I feel like 4k lbs, lower profile trailer is limit for me.

EDIT: MPGs are same as stock. 12/13 around town (I have lots of short <4 mile commutes, this kills MPG). 19/20 on highway (I don't run a rack or RTT). Towing 4k trailer, 9.5 mpg round trip with lots of climbs. 5k trailer was something insane like 7.5mpg round trip.

 

[HDrdglid]

View attachment 2738952

Very nice looks great! I just don't know for me if it would be worth all the negatives to go to 35s on my GX. I have 33.5 on my FJ and really like it but that is about as big as I would go and I have no BMC on it. I am thinking of selling the F J and definitely will go to 33 plus on GX in a year or two.

 

[Washingtontaco]

My 2015 GX460 is running Toyo AT3 35x11.50 on 0" offset, 4.88s, 3" Toytec Aluma 2.5 F/R, BMC, PCK, SPC upper, KDSS spacers, sliders, rear e-locker, 1" body lift, rear airbags. I live in Denver, and I tow a 4k lb (wet) camping trailer.

I never drove the truck with the 35s without the 4.88s, but I can not imagine it being a good experience at altitude while towing or even general driving. With the 4.88s, I can maintain traffic speed on all pass climbs with the trailer, but that's it. Stock gearing would be putting ~25% less torque to the ground, so I doubt I'd be able to break 35/40 mph on the up hills without the gears and AT would get even hotter.

I tried running the truck without the 1" BL, and there were rub issues in front and rear mud flaps. When BL went on, removed rear mud flaps, cut out room around the washer fluid reservoir in front, that solved all rub and the truck now fully stuffs without rub.

Only thing I would change is the Aluma 2.5, I think they run a bit firm, not like 1-ton without load harsh, but a sports car. I don't have any extra armor/weight, maybe these were spec'd for a fully armored truck. Cornering is flat, is as easy to drive as stock. Gears make a bit of noise, but not intrusive, and I can't hear the Toyos, only the gears.

Future plans include OEM (or similar) tranny cooler. On long climbs, if truck is in 3rd and no TC lockup, TC temps will hit 260+ on long climb, and it's tripped the 3rd gear TC lockup override before (I don't want to make this a regular occurrence). AT temp has been high 230s. Extra cooler won't stop the heat soak, but will slow it down. If you did this without gears, I think you'd get really hot really quick.

And finally, I used to tow a 5k lbs trailer with huge frontal area, and that was not great, I feel like 4k lbs, lower profile trailer is limit for me.

EDIT: MPGs are same as stock. 12/13 around town (I have lots of short <4 mile commutes, this kills MPG). 19/20 on highway (I don't run a rack or RTT). Towing 4k trailer, 9.5 mpg round trip with lots of climbs. 5k trailer was something insane like 7.5mpg round trip.

Who's 1" inch body lift did you use? Did you relocate the radiator with the body lift?

 

[double0jimb0]

Who's 1" inch body lift did you use? Did you relocate the radiator with the body lift?

TXTR customs, I just checked their site, and now does not show the product, strange. As for radiator relocate, I have no idea I didn’t ask the shop who did job. But they did make it sound super simple.

 

[Harangatang]

View attachment 2738952

Noiceeeee! Black trucks are always so good.


100% agree about not needing gears. Would it be nice? Sure. But at the cost of what.. $4-6k? I drove mine 2500 miles to Co, through every trail in/around ouray and back to dallas and pretty sure I averaged 16.5mpg.. I usually cruise at 85mph on the highway. Zero trans overheating issues. Is it slower than stock? Of course. But imho it doesn't *need* gears to run 35s comfortably.

I have a another set of 35"s waiting to go on the new GX as we speak

 

[double0jimb0]

Noiceeeee! Black trucks are always so good.


100% agree about not needing gears. Would it be nice? Sure. But at the cost of what.. $4-6k? I drove mine 2500 miles to Co, through every trail in/around ouray and back to dallas and pretty sure I averaged 16.5mpg.. I usually cruise at 85mph on the highway. Zero trans overheating issues. Is it slower than stock? Of course. But imho it doesn't *need* gears to run 35s comfortably.

I have a another set of 35"s waiting to go on the new GX as we speak

I think this is a fair assessment. I noted that I live in Denver, you already lose 15-25+% of power from altitude here, combine that with another 15% torque loss from going to larger tires, and you have a pretty handicapped vehicle at high altitude. If you are closer to sealevel or rarely drive at altitude, probably more livable without gears. I bought the GX460 for ability to load up family of 4 and gear and tow in the Rockies and then go wheel, and I provided my comments to give benchmark on how adding 35s affects that use case.