460-Add Crawl Control (CC) and Multi Terrain Select (MTS) to 2010-2019 models/all trims (11 Viewers)

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What a great write up...this is why I love this site. Of all the social media and crap on the internet, this GX section of IH8MUD (and ordering from Amazon...and wine) is helping me cope with Covid.
Anyway, I am hoping to add MTS and Crawl to my 2017 Luxury (with the airbags removed and lifted). Coincidently I am trying to find a good place to mount my switches for fogs and off road lights. So I am wondering, if I install the MTS and Crawl, it looks like it replaces my 4Hi/Lo and DAC switch, but does the unneeded height adjust and sport/comfort switch just go away and a blank go in?
I'm wondering if I can cover the blank area with a wood piece to mount either a ram mount type arm for my ham radio, phone or some switches. Also I am a little confused after reading through the thread and wanted to double check what the part number is for my 2017 for the MTS/Crawl modules (and if I need to do the paperclip method).



View attachment 2602916View attachment 2602926View attachment 2602917
Depending upon how many lights and/or other accessories (compressor, lockers, etc.) you may want to go this route or similar:
Amazon product ASIN B07QP5TQDK
It will keep you from drill/cutting a lot of holes in your dash and console!
 
thanks for the help guys, I will order that p/n for the crawl control but do I need a module for the MTS?. When it gets here, I might be back here to review the "paperclip method" of calibrating
 
Correct. MTS is a separate ECU

PN: 859A1-60040 - 2014-2019 Multi Terrain Select (MTS) for any trim

859a1-60040.png


 
Ha-ha! Build competitions!
Gotta love it! 😆
 
True!
Well, knocked it out last night. Still need to do the calibration, but the install was pretty easy using the video as a guide.
Yeah I've been pulling like 12 hour days lately that span my kid's time awake, so I've been spending all my weekend time with him and haven't really gotten the opportunity. I'll try to carve out some time this weekend for sure.
 
Yeah I've been pulling like 12 hour days lately that span my kid's time awake, so I've been spending all my weekend time with him and haven't really gotten the opportunity. I'll try to carve out some time this weekend for sure.
Hang in there, it's not a race to get 'er done.
... Or is it??? o_O
 
So here's some hope for you 2020 guys - I finally got this retrofitted into my LX. MTS/turn-assist/crawl. Turned out to be Network Gateway ECU that needed fixing. I suppose that if the skid ECU is on the direct CANBUS, and doesn't pass through a gateway on the newer GX, then it should be plug/play!
 
So I'm thinking of taking the plunge and adding CC and MTS this next month and maybe CC sooner if I do the DAC hack.
But I have a several questions:
  • Do you get ALL 5 crawl speeds with the DAC hack? I'm under the impression that the DAC turns on the CC and only has 1 speed. Can you set/use the other 4 speeds with the DAC hack?
  • I have lockers front and rear, so using MTS and/or CC while locked with either/or both diff's, I'm thinking I'll tear something up because using either or both the systems (CC and MTS) use brake and throttle, correct?
  • The fellow that made the posted the second video for zero point calibration, I was not clear about driving the vehicle after doing the paperclip/start button dance. Did he say/mean to drive the vehicle over or under 20 mph, AND for how long on a straight length of road?
  • Can you drive your rig outside your neighborhood, twisting through your community before you get to a straight section of road? Or do you need to drive straight for "X" number of seconds at 20 mph right after the paperclip/start button dance?
Especially the last 2 questions could really use some clairfication. Has anyone ever addressed this?
 
You can only use one speed if you repurpose the crawl switch. Budget Crawl using switches.


A CL member did this.

"How to convert the DAC switch to a CC switch.
once at the harness connector at the combo switch assy:
1 disconnect it and cut the CC ON/OFF wire position 6 BLK and cut the DAC ON wire position 15 LT GRN making sure to leave enough wire to reconnect.
2 connect the connector end DAC 15 LT GRN wire to the harness end CC BLK 6 wire. At this point there is a cut BLK wire at the connector, and also a cut LT GRN wire at the harness. These are not used and can be secured.

Now the switch is converted. still need to run the cal process to get the computer to control the CC properly.

operation after cal completion
to turn on CC, flip the DAC switch to on and then back off. It doesnt matter how long you take since the signal works on the flip on only. CC works at the medium speed.
to turn CC off, flip the DAC switch to on and then back off. It doesnt matter how long you take since the signal works on the flip on only. CC stops working."


MTS is just variable ATRAC so it will just be versions of that function you use now. I can't speak for affect of front and rear lockers using crawl.

MTS requires an ECU...there is no shortcut on that one.

Just find a length of straight road and go over 25MPH or so.. once the wheels show back up on the steering direction indicator you are good. You can even turn on roads... system just needs a stretch of straight road at speed and calibration will work.
 
So I'm thinking of taking the plunge and adding CC and MTS this next month and maybe CC sooner if I do the DAC hack.
But I have a several questions:
  • Do you get ALL 5 crawl speeds with the DAC hack? I'm under the impression that the DAC turns on the CC and only has 1 speed. Can you set/use the other 4 speeds with the DAC hack?
  • I have lockers front and rear, so using MTS and/or CC while locked with either/or both diff's, I'm thinking I'll tear something up because using either or both the systems (CC and MTS) use brake and throttle, correct?
  • The fellow that made the posted the second video for zero point calibration, I was not clear about driving the vehicle after doing the paperclip/start button dance. Did he say/mean to drive the vehicle over or under 20 mph, AND for how long on a straight length of road?
  • Can you drive your rig outside your neighborhood, twisting through your community before you get to a straight section of road? Or do you need to drive straight for "X" number of seconds at 20 mph right after the paperclip/start button dance?
Especially the last 2 questions could really use some clairfication. Has anyone ever addressed this?
With F&R lockers I see no benefit to having CC/MTS.
 
Matt said he got in a whole other stack of 090s in.

He doesn't charge sales tax either if you live in an affected state. It's definitely cheaper for me ....than others if this piece is included.

CODE: GXORFIFTYOFF23 for 50% off “Shipping”


84970-60090.jpeg
 
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