40 specific drawers/cargo box ideas

[REZARF]

Howdy folks,

All the 80 and 60's guy seem to have the market on good storage drawers/cargo boxes out back, but I plan on changing that.

I have wanted something for a while now that keeps my gear organized and easily accessible. Last year at CM06 I used two huge action packers and they worked fine for storage but accessing the gear was a major hassle.

So I have decided to make a cargo box for the rear of a 40. I may (not sure)make a very small run of these for mudders if they work out okay, but I was wondering what features you would want in a good trail/everyday cargo box.

Here is what I have so far:

Two drawers side by side, one small drawer for little things that I need to get at a lot, like my air hose and deflators, flashlight, straps things like that.

One large drawer big enough to hold a long side axle, air tank, spare fluids etc.

I want it to mount without drilling, maybe tie into the roll bar/seat hardware.

Lockable.

Removable.

Gear lashing points on the top surface for strapping down a cooler or soft items.

Maybe a place to lay down and bolt up a hi-lift jack.

Truck bed liner type coating.

Adjustable drawer dividers.

Indoor outdoor Carpet on the inside to reduce rattles.

Water "Tight," I don't know if waterproof is possible but it needs to be able to get rained on without flooding the interior.

I thought about making a hole to mount the CO2 tanks in a vertical position.

Here is what I would like input on:

What would you add?

Would you install a "hatch" in the top of the box for accessing the stuff w/o having to open the rear doors?

Height of the box? I am thinking the height of the tub which is 14" overall, which will yield roughly 12" deep drawers.

What do you think, anyone have any pics of something similar?

Thanks in advance.

Rezarf <><

 

[boltonski]

I always seem to be hauling enough crap around that using a top hatch would be a PIA. But, I can imagine the usefulness if you were backed up against something...

I would drill out the top to install recessed lashing points. And, I prefer the practicality of a single drawer to two drawers.

This guy did a pretty nice job in the back of a YJ:

www.flickr.com/photos/locked4low/sets/72157594230616642/

-Dan

 

[REZARF]

Yeah, that box looks nice.

I would flush mount, actually recess mount the tie down points. But I like his super track stuff that is a nice set up.

I was thinking of a smaller section than what he has, and make it on its own sliders.

thanks for the comments.

Rezarf <><

 

[Felix]

I see how a top hatch might be a pain, but it would be great for guys like me that run just a rear panel with the soft top in the summer. I'd never be able to get to my stuff w/o a hatch.

 

[REZARF]

That makes sense Felix.

I just wonder how far you could reach into the rig without sliders. My truck is on 35s and has 4" of lift. I bet you couldn't reach too far with the tailgate in place. But maybe some gas lift supports could help hold it open.

Rezarf <><

 

[Felix]

Well, there's no reason why you couldn't do both, right? Guys in my position could use the hatch until the truck gets too tall to reach in. Then we'd have to break down and get a tail gate or rear half doors.

 

[65swb45]

I would make the drawers both shallower, leaving a forward section of the box that spans the width of the bed and opens from the top.

You can store the heavier, 'deep-sh-t' items like axleshafts and driveshafts in the forward box, which won't matter if they take longer to get to [because you'll be in big doodoo when you need them anyways, AND it will take a lot of weight off of your drawer sliders putting those bulkier items in their own fixed box.

Other than that, it sounds good so far.

 

[77TLCFJ40]

Great idea! Thanks for taking it on.

I have been planning something similar for my 40 but I have other requirements. I need to limit its height to the tops of the fenders. This will greatly reduce capacity, but it will allow me to keep my Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick fold and tumble rear seat.

Here are some pictures I have kept for inspiration.

 

[Renoron]

Check these folks out for ideas. We buy quite a few. Nice work.

http://www.truckvault.com/

 

[DSRTRDR]

I see how a top hatch might be a pain, but it would be great for guys like me that run just a rear panel with the soft top in the summer. I'd never be able to get to my stuff w/o a hatch.

ditto

 

[Coolerman]

Don't forget some LED lighting inside. Could be battery powered stick on's or hard wired to the truck with a plug.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Don't forget some LED lighting inside. Could be battery powered stick on's or hard wired to the truck with a plug.

Stick-ons are the bomb. I have a dome light centered on my hard top. $8, no wires.

 

[awp_cruiser]

I found this and liked some of its features

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...490200G&N=700+210+4294925230+115&autoview=sku

- removable top AND sliders
- 2 drawers (if I do want to take it out 2 drawers are much easier to unload)
- carpet
- near the same height as the inner fenders
- short enought to leave foot room for bench seat above
- internal dividers
- lightweight

If you do build an box I think simple functionality and flexibility is key. Don't try and make it fit everyones custom needs. Rather make a good box that works. No tie ins, no fancy custom stuff, no jack mounts, no bed liner coating... just a good metal box that is as accessable as possible, as water tight as possible, and as durable as possible. I'd buy one for a fair price and then I'd customize it to fit my rig.

And drop down tailgates are not always flush with the bed so the bottom of the drawers would need to be high enough to pull out over the top.

I am interested in seeing what you come up with. Sounds like a fun project!

Andy

 

[65swb45]

If you do build an box I think simple functionality and flexibility is key. Don't try and make it fit everyones custom needs. Rather make a good box that works. No tie ins, no fancy custom stuff, no jack mounts, no bed liner coating... just a good metal box that is as accessable as possible, as water tight as possible, and as durable as possible. I'd buy one for a fair price and then I'd customize it to fit my rig.

[insert: AGREED. KISS]

And drop down tailgates are not always flush with the bed so the bottom of the drawers would need to be high enough to pull out over the top.


Andy

An excellent point! I HAVE a dropgate on my 40 and still managed to forget that point. This could significantly change drawer design and capacity, IF you try to build something that will accomodate dropgate owners as well.

Maybe it's best to leave us out of the equation.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Tie downs should definitely fold flush.

A tail gate hinged off the box would solve the problem of what to do when running a bikini. It would also provide a work surface for cooking or whatever. I don't have enough metal left in my sill to attach a tail gate so it would solve two problems for me. And I know my 40 isn't unique in this respect.

I would prefer the unit be flush with the fender wells. Maybe offer two versions? fender high and tub high?

Maybe something easier to clean than carpet inside. Rubber floor matting? Even if it is dust proof you know dirt, oil and grease will find it's way inside.

I'm not sure what you have in mind for securing the unit, how would you attache to the roll cage? And what about those with after market cages? My preference would be to have it bolted directly to the body. T nuts would make removal/installation fairly easy.

 

[santacruzer]

Storage Box

There's an outfit in Seattle called Truck Vault, Inc., who make some really nice storage boxes for pickups and SUV's. Most of what they have are built around standard specs for vehicles, but they custom built one for me around the specs for my then (2001) brand-new Tacoma crew cab shortbed. They're kind of pricey, but it's a great product. I think I paid around $900, but it came carpeted on the top, and the drawers inside were carpeted. Lockable.
www.truckvault.com

 

[Tunnelratt]

An excellent point! I HAVE a dropgate on my 40 and still managed to forget that point. This could significantly change drawer design and capacity, IF you try to build something that will accomodate dropgate owners as well.

Maybe it's best to leave us out of the equation.

Naw, dont leave us out of the equation, if you build the bottom of the carrier with a 5/8" inside rise and cut a taper on the side rails of the drawers, you can drop the tailgate, pull the drawer and it will glide up and over the back side of the drop gate, when it comes out far enough it teeter totters and lays flat on the gate, it doesnt really diminish the capacity of the drawers. I am working on one that has two drawers accessible from the back and a seperate area, right behind the seats where the floor has the drop, with a lid on it, accessible from the front seats while driving, bottom of the box will have the drop built in so I can use existing heater holes for mounting and get a bit more capacity for the front box. Hey Mark, also fabbed up a couple drop gate catches, they look great if I say so myself, will try to get by the shop and show you, been busy moving my office and getting ready to move 60M c/y of CA real estate. Steve

 

[65swb45]

Naw, dont leave us out of the equation, if you build the bottom of the carrier with a 5/8" inside rise and cut a taper on the side rails of the drawers, you can drop the tailgate, pull the drawer and it will glide up and over the back side of the drop gate, when it comes out far enough it teeter totters and lays flat on the gate, it doesnt really diminish the capacity of the drawers. I am working on one that has two drawers accessible from the back and a seperate area, right behind the seats where the floor has the drop, with a lid on it, accessible from the front seats while driving, bottom of the box will have the drop built in so I can use existing heater holes for mounting and get a bit more capacity for the front box. Hey Mark, also fabbed up a couple drop gate catches, they look great if I say so myself, will try to get by the shop and show you, been busy moving my office and getting ready to move 60M c/y of CA real estate. Steve

Remind me where you live again?

Your storage box sounds a lot like what I would be looking for. Are you making it out of wood or metal? Would you be interested in making a second one? Maybe for store credit?

 

[llih]

Some great ideas on above bed storage. Has anyone modified the rear bed with a between the frame box that accesses from the bottom of the bed? Something like the in bed trunk on the Honda Ridgeline.

 

[1973Guppie]

Before I completely rebuilt my 40 I built a rear cargo storage area. I used all metal. I layed channel steel bars over the rear cargo area, bolted on top of each fender well from one side to the other. I then covered it in a large sheet of diamond plating. I also cut a piece of diamong plating on the front of the box at an angle and used this to house speakers and an amp. The rear doors were the back of the box to close everything in. I then used those plastic roller boxes that are made for underbed storage. It all worked well. I even added a few of teh tie downs you can find at the autoparts stores. I took it all apart on my last rebuild though. I just use one big box in the rear and some removable cargo boxes.

Noah