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40's rock said:
If you go to a header, you will have another set of issues in that most (all that I have seen) headers have a thinner flange than the aluminum intake. I have tried cut washers/shims/double gaskets, remflex gasket, single gasket doubled on the exhaust port...I haven't found a long term solution yet.

If you have the factory PTO....only the two piece shorty header will work...unless you want to section and rotate the collector:wrench:...then if you do a shackle reversal, upper shackle bolt wants to be exactly where the collector sits....:bang:

Don't ask how I know all this....
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I was hoping to unbolt put new gasket in and re-bolt. I was going to ask the question if it could be that easy or do I need to get all new hardware.

I think Nolen was right. Should of bought the 30k truck! :flipoff2:
 
The flange on the MAF headers is a perfect match for the intake manifold. Going on five years (knock on wood) leak-free myself. I double-gasketed just for the fun of it, but it wasn't really necessary.

They've split the flange into two pieces, which goes a long way in relieving the heat induced stress and warping.
 
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That's what I have.... but if i was doing it over, I would get the six into one headers and have them ceramic coated.
 
Mike, check out what you have before ordering anything. It is fairly comon to see them crack but you can get them welded and go back in with it. May just need a new gasket. A header is not going to add much power and will just about require you to rework the entire exhaust system.
 
That's it. I'm not sure who coats them, I haven't shopped around for it before. Im sure one of the chrome/metal plating shops could. That one would be easier to connect your existing exhaust to than the curly one.

But, like Bossman said, try the manifold first. It's probably not the problem anyhow.

Also, depending on how rigidly the tail end of the exhaust is mounted, you might weld in a short flex pipe somewhere to take some of the stress off the manifold-downpipe connection.
 
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Headers vs Stock Manifolds, and Gaskets

Mike, you may find this informative. The gospel on 2F headers according to Mark Algazy...


055-EXHAUSTS-Manifolds vs. Headers. I am a big believer in headers on the 6 cylinder. The concept of forcing multiple cylinders worth of exhaust to run headlong into each other in the fight to make an abrupt 90 degree turn down the collector makes as much sense as 3 people trying to get thru a doorway at the same time. Headers not only offer a significant increase in performance by facilitating the movement of exhausts in the same direction, they are more durable in the long run. When they crack (not if) you can weld a steel header; you throw the un-weldable stock, cast iron manifold away. The ONLY advantage of the stock manifold is that it is quieter.
Not all headers are equal. I think the Tri-Y header is superior to the 6 into 1 type. Header efficiency is judged by many things, one of which is the RPM at which it begins to move air efficiently. This efficiency in turn is controlled by the tubing size and length of the runners. Assuming that the runner size of both headers is the same, all the extra tubing of the 6 into 1 means that it will take more air flow (read: higher rpms) to start to move air efficiently. In a low speed, rock-crawler world, you want more power at lower speeds for more control. Ergo, the Tri-Y is the better choice.
There are a couple of companies that offer the Tri-Y as a two piece header. I find these problematic. As a mechanic that has to service these, I discovered the hard way that the collector pipe does not bring the two halves together until they are somewhere underneath the left corner of the bell housing. Because of the extra bulk of twin pipes, this often results in a situation where you have to unhook the exhaust in order to get the clutch out! That’s just wrong!
HEADER GASKETS. I don't use kevlar gaskets, and I don't sell them. They are supplied in the header kits I sell, but I do not recommend installing them. Kevlar may very well have a higher temp rating, but in EVERY other aspect, I consider it to be an inferior product. It has minimal compressive capabilities, which means that there is little chance that it will conform to any irregularities in your manifolds. Further, the kevlar gasket usually fails between the two outside surfaces, 'blowing out' from the middle because it has no sealing bands to seal the cylinder head chambers from the gasket. The gasket that I have featured on the specials page not only has the widest sealing bands available, but they are designed to be 'sandwiched' and compress and conform as you tighten your manifolds down, providing the best seal possible. That said, I still use copper coat on all the exhaust ports when I install one.
 
wngrog said:
I hate agreeing with Algazy. In fact, it is one of the few things we agree on.
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LOL. Me too. It took some effort to post that, but I thought it contributed to the discussion.

In the interest of full disclosure, Mark sells a header in the tri-Y configuration that he recommends. It's the same as the old Downey header, which many claim is/was the best 2F header available.
 
Sea Knight said:
LOL. Me too. It took some effort to post that, but I thought it contributed to the discussion.

In the interest of full disclosure, Mark sells a header in the tri-Y configuration that he recommends. It's the same as the old Downey header, which many claim is/was the best 2F header available.
Click to expand...

He bought all when Downey went under.

I put one on my 60 because the manifold was cracked and exhaust needed full replacement due to rust
 
I've had 2 6 into 1 headers on 2 different 40's and never had a leak or other issue. I think the secret is that you have to "true" the surface on the face of the header. In other words, make sure the surface that bolts to the head is all the same height. Also use the rim flex gasket as well.
 
Damn, I've got some work to do! I need to chase down all those un-weldable stock manifolds I welded and replace them....

We are not talking about a performance engine here. This is a tractor motor. Would you put headers on your tractor?

FWIW - I'm not against headers really, I just don't see the point if what you have can be repaired (if even cracked in the first place)
 
Sea Knight said:
LOL. Me too. It took some effort to post that, but I thought it contributed to the discussion.

In the interest of full disclosure, Mark sells a header in the tri-Y configuration that he recommends. It's the same as the old Downey header, which many claim is/was the best 2F header available.
Click to expand...

He pawned a 6 into 1 chrome header off on me....even though I have a factory PTO...live and learn.
 
I am of the mind that if the manifold has to come off, replace it with something new. It is a lot of work to get in there and get it all out.


That is just me. Every 2F I have ever had, I ended up with a header for that reason and that reason alone.
 
Well thanks for the info. Now I don't know what to do. LOL. I really don't want to spend money
where I don't have to on this truck. I will take some pics of the manifold and get you guys opinions
when I get back to HS. I am assuming I will need all new bolts and hardware since the ones in there are old.

If I put on a different/new header will stock size bolts work or will I need something new and customized for that header?

If I put on old manifold where can I find bolt part numbers so I can order new ones?

Thanks.
 
Now ya'll've done it!!! Myke is all kinds of confused!!! Poopsicle! Ya'll get on the same page about these dang'd headers!!!



Myke, I'd look first at just a gasket replacement if you're trying to do it on the cheap. Based on the picture, kinda looks like your gasket has just sprung a small leak. I'm all for simple solutions first :D
 
my headers haven't leaked at the engine, ever - they cracked where they go into the 1, or leaked at the exhaust connector :mad: toasting my feet, even with insulation :bang:

if I buy headers again, they will be the ceramic coated version - my truck originally came with those chromed, then they cracked, then I got the el cheapo version from MAF: they run noticeably HOTTER :eek: and now I have an exhaust leak at the flange :mad:

maybe it will get me through emissions, tomorrow, though :hhmm:
 
Ok, I have not seen anybody address the hardware. Is this going to require new bolts or have people had good success with old bolts? Anybody know the size and type incase I shear one off so I can have some replacements? I guess I really need to get a FSM on this rig?
 
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