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Cool, Thanks!
 
sandj527 said:
I had a similar issue with my 40. I had put 3 starters in it from orielly and finally put one in from Napa and haven't had a problem since. I also run a V8 so the problem could be totally different. I put new ignition switch in and put a push button that went straight to starter. Have you tried jumping the solenoid when it will not crank? My .02

Thanks for info but I have not tried that. The starter will not turn at all now even with good battery. Going to order a NAPA one today.
 
Thanks for info but I have not tried that. The starter will not turn at all now even with good battery. Going to order a NAPA one today.

Isn't your starter an AZ or O'Reilly's with a lifetime warranty?
 
Not sure where Shush got starter from?

I thought it came from O'Reilly's but don't know where I got that idea. Ask John. If he has the receipt you could get it replaced under warranty...and spend the money saved on beer. :D
 
If you have time to search that you have time to finish writing the Rustbucket.

I try to help you out and all I get in return is abuse...:p

(I'll get right on it, Sir)
 
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Yes advanced. Receipt should be in folder with all others Mike.
 
Thanks SHUSH.

I got a few 40 questions.

Will the stock wheels from a 62 fit on my 40?

Has anybody fixed and exhaust manifold leak on a 2f. Mine seams to be getting worse.



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image-933080481.webp

The scorching is new. Noticed it after fixing
Carb and being able to go above 45mph.

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image-933080481.webp
 
Yes on both.

I've had good luck with the felpro gaskets, both with the stock manifold and with headers. I actually have one in my stash. If you're ever in Memphis again, you're welcome to it.

I got this one from Cdan, but you can get them at Advance for about $15.00. it's the same part.
 
Misery Loves Company

I am currently dead and won't start...

Maybe this will make you feel better:

"Alright. So I'm driving along in my new to me 72 fj40 and everything is good in the world when it starts chugging and acting like it wants to die. I pull over and turn the truck off and then have a look under the hood. There are two grounds coming off the battery and the smaller of the two is completely melted and the wires are exposed. Ok, so I hitch a ride to the nearest Napa and grab a new ground wire, install it and while doing so I cracked the clamp that attaches to the terminal. Back to Napa to grab a new terminal clamp/wire. Install it. Truck still won't start. Look down at the gas peddle and the accelerator cable has come off and has a **** ton of slack. Go back to the engine compartment and sure enough it has come out of the little thingy that attaches to the engine - can you sense my sweet mechanical skills yet? So I finally reattach it but end up dropping one of the bolts that holds the accelerator cable to the engine. At this point I can't find it in the grass but the cable seems to be holding. Jump back into the cab and the truck fires right up. Sweet. I drive to my buddies to slug a couple of beers. Have a beer or two - wait an hour :) - and then go to drive home. Everything seems to be all good when all of the sudden, 3 miles from my house, the truck is starting to die again. I pull over and it dies and won't restart...I just walked 3 miles home...

...This is either going to be awesome, or this truck is going to kill me "
 
Mike your truck is 36 years old...
 
May be cracked. If so, best to replace with header.

62 wheels will fit.

If you go to a header, you will have another set of issues in that most (all that I have seen) headers have a thinner flange than the aluminum intake. I have tried cut washers/shims/double gaskets, remflex gasket, single gasket doubled on the exhaust port...I haven't found a long term solution yet.

If you have the factory PTO....only the two piece shorty header will work...unless you want to section and rotate the collector:wrench:...then if you do a shackle reversal, upper shackle bolt wants to be exactly where the collector sits....:bang:

Don't ask how I know all this....
 
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