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Seriously, I have a couple drips and the occasional small (quarter sized) puddle under the rig after driving her. Some is engine oil, some is gear oil. I top off before a trip and it usually doesn't take as much as you would think. If you are getting big puddles, you would have something more to be concerned about. But from the looks of it, your's is no worse than mine. What I did was used a piece of plastic so that I could gauge how much I was dripping. Cardboard oil stains spread and don't show exactly how much is dripping.
 
if they are two separate components, like with an externally regulated alternator, I don't see why

in a mechanical external regulator, you can check the points
 
If anybody knows me well on this forum, they know that I have no idea what you just said. :)

Got the new alt. in. seems ok for now.

newer alternators are internally regulated - they have no extra box for a voltage regulator like this is
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it sounded like you have an externally regulated alternator, but I wasn't entirely sure - also, some people have installed digital external regulators, you can't open those - the older style mechanical regulators can be opened and you can inspect the -as the name says- mechanical components - which consist of metal strips that touch each other - hence the name points - they can get dirty - can be cleaned with fine sandpaper

replacement mechanical regulators are ~$25 at Specter or fjparts.com - an autoparts store will give you a digital one, but unless you have the correct plug, they don't easily wire up
 
If anybody knows me well on this forum, they know that I have no idea what you just said. :)

Got the new alt. in. seems ok for now.

I'm gonna go with the assumption that you have an alternator with an internal voltage regulator, which attaches by 2 screws to the top/side of the alternator. If I'm correct in this assumption, then yes, you can reuse the voltage regulator. It's part no. 005 in this SOR diagram. That said, they're cheap, and I keep a spare.

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There was no voltage regulator that I could find looking around in the engine compartment. Where would it be? I am assuming it would be near the alt. The alt. plug in wire (as in DSRTDRs post) did not have a voltage regulator attached to it anywhere near alternator. Would the VR be on the frame or firewall somewhere?

This is the one I used. Makes no ref. to internal VR.

Ultima 14131 - Alternator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
 
location of an external regulator would be on the firewall under the master cylinders

according to Specter Offroad's site, the breakover from external to internally regulated alternators was 1/79

take a pic of what you had and have now - since O-Reilly's lists other alternators specifically as externally regulated, I am taking a wild animated guess that your new one is internally regulated
 
what means "die" - the truck or the alternator or the battery ?

alternator should be under warranty
 
what means "die" - the truck or the alternator or the battery ?

alternator should be under warranty

This is 4th time after driving it 3-4 days it will not turn over to start. Nothing from starter. Battery will power radio but will not turn over starter. After a few minutes from a jump battery it will start, then run for a few days then the cycle starts over.
Went to auto parts store and they said alternator output voltage was low (13 volts) so I was hoping a new alternator would fix it but I guess it's not going to be that easy.

Still have not found the VR.
 
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 020 Land Cruiser Alternator & Starter

if I am not mistaken the voltage regulator is mounted on the firewall.
Mike I had issues with my 40 last year with it eating batteries. Very frustrating.
You may have a ground issue or something drawing down your battery.
It took my guys a while to see the forest vs the trees. In my case we replaced a alternator last summer with a new one that had an internal voltage regulator. So it was not happy with the external regulator on truck. Stupid is as stupid does....

You will get it figured out. It takes time and $$$.

Do a couple of extra of Hong Kong rubber dog s*** runs and send it to the guru in Little Rock....

or just KILL IT WITH FIRE!!!!!!
 
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**** 2F TECH ***

I put the Affordable Fuel Injection kit in my truck a few weekends ago... if any of y'all get sick of the carb, I give this kit 2 thumbs up! I found a slightly used kit in the classifieds, so the cost wasn't too painful.


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It came with a computer controlled DUI dizzy, which got rid of the coil and igniter. I would have preferred the Toyota dizzy that now comes with the kit, but I didn't want to spend the extra $400 to replace this.

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The temp sender screwed right into the thermostat housing...

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Weldered in the O2 sensor...

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Put a 'lectric fuel pump in (disobeyed all the rules of inljne electric pumps and stuck it on the fender)

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Mounted the computer in the glovebox...

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After everything was hooked up, she fired up on the first try! Set the timing and she was purring like a kitten!

The carb was running like a champ, but this is so much smoother. Much better response in the low to mid rpm range. Not any more power at WOT, but definitely has more power off the line.

My engine bay smells alot cleaner now. No lingering gas smell. I haven't run a full tank through, so no MPG calculations. It'll probably go down, 'cause I've been driving faster!

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