Sweet. Nice work...
4.5LV build
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #462
Looks like she got some modeling work. I'm going to have to start working on the cosmetic stuff for a while.
I've been driving it around. I have to say, while it is fun, it's really not the same as the SWB. No doors, no top and 325hp is just a giggle all the time.
I've been driving it around. I have to say, while it is fun, it's really not the same as the SWB. No doors, no top and 325hp is just a giggle all the time.
- Thread starter
- #465
Mounted a radiator overflow tank. Had to make a little bracket and relocate the horn.
Made a new exhaust hanger for the rear. I might have to remake it. The LV was the only Land Cruiser I have with no Chevy parts. Now it has a Chevy con rod exhaust hanger. I think I might have a 2F rod somewhere. I got the right fine thread nuts since the pic and tightened it up. It was still just a tad loose, so I put the bearing back in and it tightened right up.
The brake booster has been hissing at the pedal, so I took it apart and cleaned, lubed and reset all the seals. I really don't want to have to buy a rebuild kit for it, but they are still available. Got it back together and it doesn't leak, but it doesn't work either. The master was leaking from the rear seal and I ordered a new one. It will be here Monday so I'll take the booster back out then.
Messed around with the door strikers this morning. The two driver side doors don't shut flush. I got them closer, but something still isn't right.
The wife came by for lunch so we took the LV out. It was the first time she's had a chance for a ride.
It got warm and sunny in the afternoon. I spent a couple of hours color sanding the hood and polishing the hood and left fender. Hard work. I could never be a body man.
Made a new exhaust hanger for the rear. I might have to remake it. The LV was the only Land Cruiser I have with no Chevy parts. Now it has a Chevy con rod exhaust hanger. I think I might have a 2F rod somewhere. I got the right fine thread nuts since the pic and tightened it up. It was still just a tad loose, so I put the bearing back in and it tightened right up.
The brake booster has been hissing at the pedal, so I took it apart and cleaned, lubed and reset all the seals. I really don't want to have to buy a rebuild kit for it, but they are still available. Got it back together and it doesn't leak, but it doesn't work either. The master was leaking from the rear seal and I ordered a new one. It will be here Monday so I'll take the booster back out then.
Messed around with the door strikers this morning. The two driver side doors don't shut flush. I got them closer, but something still isn't right.
The wife came by for lunch so we took the LV out. It was the first time she's had a chance for a ride.
It got warm and sunny in the afternoon. I spent a couple of hours color sanding the hood and polishing the hood and left fender. Hard work. I could never be a body man.
- Thread starter
- #466
I also went to work on the vent door. One of the hinges was booger welded on and broke when I tried to drive the roll pin out to remove it. I ground down the weld, took out the broken piece, cut down a cabinet hinge, welded it to the door and cleaned it up a bit.
Worked out well. I then had to sand it down. The primer is drying now for a re-spray tomorrow.
after pic first
Worked out well. I then had to sand it down. The primer is drying now for a re-spray tomorrow.
after pic first
- Thread starter
- #467
Got the vent door painted. Touched up a few spots and reshot the top of the tailgate that was showing a bit thin after color sanding. Harbor freight has their paint guns on sale for 9.99. They are hardly worth cleaning for that.
Attacked the no speedo problem. I have 12v and ground at the vss. I have 12v and ground at the speedo head. The signal goes to the head and then to the ECM, and I have no speed signal at the ECM via a scan tool test. I checked the wires going from 1H1 to the speedo head and it all looks OK, so I pulled the vss to test it according to the procedure I the FSM. There's no little metal adapter from the tang drive gear to the square drive vss. I made one out of a 40 cable for now. If that doesn't work I'll try and 3d print one.
Wired up a pair of speakers. They are the kind that come in their own little box. I thought about putting them on the kick panels, but it's crowded in the footwell even without a clutch pedal. They fit well under the seats. I'll see how that works for a while.
I ordered up a 4.5" x 1.5" OBDII monitor screen to put in the stock radio slot. I think. I'll try to 3d print/build a radio delete plate garage door for it.it will be nice to dial up any OBD PID any time and be able to monitor it.
After driving it for about 20 miles now I have one code, a VSS code. I'm pretty happy with that. All the other functions seem to be good. Long and short term fuel trim are both very good.
Buffed out some more of the gray too. The left side, front and back are all done. I bought a wool bonnet for the buffer so I can get a bit more aggressive. It worked well. The right side has a couple of scratches I have to decide how to deal with.
Attacked the no speedo problem. I have 12v and ground at the vss. I have 12v and ground at the speedo head. The signal goes to the head and then to the ECM, and I have no speed signal at the ECM via a scan tool test. I checked the wires going from 1H1 to the speedo head and it all looks OK, so I pulled the vss to test it according to the procedure I the FSM. There's no little metal adapter from the tang drive gear to the square drive vss. I made one out of a 40 cable for now. If that doesn't work I'll try and 3d print one.
Wired up a pair of speakers. They are the kind that come in their own little box. I thought about putting them on the kick panels, but it's crowded in the footwell even without a clutch pedal. They fit well under the seats. I'll see how that works for a while.
I ordered up a 4.5" x 1.5" OBDII monitor screen to put in the stock radio slot. I think. I'll try to 3d print/build a radio delete plate garage door for it.it will be nice to dial up any OBD PID any time and be able to monitor it.
After driving it for about 20 miles now I have one code, a VSS code. I'm pretty happy with that. All the other functions seem to be good. Long and short term fuel trim are both very good.
Buffed out some more of the gray too. The left side, front and back are all done. I bought a wool bonnet for the buffer so I can get a bit more aggressive. It worked well. The right side has a couple of scratches I have to decide how to deal with.
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Pretty hard to beat those paint guns for that price, also the 4 1/2'" grinders for the same compared to Makita for 80-100 bucks use them once grinding and you have got your money back. Best
- Thread starter
- #470
It was a struggle. The Scangauge is very tight to the stock radio opening. modifying the opening is absolutely not an option. The first door had ABS sides. They were too thick and thin enough would not be strong enough. So I cut the sides off and made a sheet metal plate for the printed face place to mount to. The tabs I printed to pivot the door off of worked fine. The little side pieces to go over the screws didn't look good.
The delete plate door face came out nice, but the raised lines coming out from the diamond in the center were too fragile and were breaking. I'm going to re-print it with thicker lines and have the lines taper wider at the bottom for strength. I'm also going to print a bezel to go all the way around the opening with the screw holes. Its tough to see the pattern in the pictures. After I took the pics I filed the tops of the lines so the texture would be left in the relief areas, but smooth on the raised areas.
the scangauge isn't mounted and is a little crooked in the picture.
All in all it works and I like it. I have a little motor and reverse polarity switch. I might make it powered, but manual would be OK too.
The delete plate door face came out nice, but the raised lines coming out from the diamond in the center were too fragile and were breaking. I'm going to re-print it with thicker lines and have the lines taper wider at the bottom for strength. I'm also going to print a bezel to go all the way around the opening with the screw holes. Its tough to see the pattern in the pictures. After I took the pics I filed the tops of the lines so the texture would be left in the relief areas, but smooth on the raised areas.
the scangauge isn't mounted and is a little crooked in the picture.
All in all it works and I like it. I have a little motor and reverse polarity switch. I might make it powered, but manual would be OK too.
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- Thread starter
- #471
Reprinted the plate. It looks better and is stronger.
reprinted the inside piece. It now has a shelf for the scangauge to sit. Helicoiled the pivot bolts for stength.
replaced the black screws with chrome ones. I don't think I have room for a bezel so I'm leaving it as it is.
reprinted the inside piece. It now has a shelf for the scangauge to sit. Helicoiled the pivot bolts for stength.
replaced the black screws with chrome ones. I don't think I have room for a bezel so I'm leaving it as it is.
- Thread starter
- #472
I'm getting a pulsed signal to my speedo now, so I hooked the VSS output to the wire from the speedo to the ECM and now I'm getting speed signal on the scangauge. It looks like the speedo head is bad. I have another so hopefully I can get that gauge working right soon.
Polished out the right side. Three good scratches in the gray on that side so I'll be getting out the paint gun soon.
Polished out the right side. Three good scratches in the gray on that side so I'll be getting out the paint gun soon.
- Thread starter
- #473
Fiddled with some wiring and got the oil pressure and temp gauges working well and accurately.
Fought with the speedo for a while. I now have the pulsed signal going through it, but still no movement of the needle. The spare one I had was different enough I can't use it.
Cleaned up a bunch of wiring on the right side of the dash.
I had ordered a reverse polarity switch and a door lock actuator a while back. This morning I hooked it all up to my scangauge garage door. It pops open and shut pretty well perfectly now. I really need a momentary switch though. Im afraid I'll leave this one on and cook the solenoid. It was tough to get the solenoid to clear everything inside the dash. It's still pretty close to the wiper arms, but they work without hitting.
edit- just ordered the switch from Amazon. So much easier that going to Radio Shack and not being able to find anything. That store is completely worthless now.
i dont know why the vid came in upside down.
Fought with the speedo for a while. I now have the pulsed signal going through it, but still no movement of the needle. The spare one I had was different enough I can't use it.
Cleaned up a bunch of wiring on the right side of the dash.
I had ordered a reverse polarity switch and a door lock actuator a while back. This morning I hooked it all up to my scangauge garage door. It pops open and shut pretty well perfectly now. I really need a momentary switch though. Im afraid I'll leave this one on and cook the solenoid. It was tough to get the solenoid to clear everything inside the dash. It's still pretty close to the wiper arms, but they work without hitting.
edit- just ordered the switch from Amazon. So much easier that going to Radio Shack and not being able to find anything. That store is completely worthless now.
i dont know why the vid came in upside down.
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- Thread starter
- #474
Struggling with what to do with this thing now. I don't really have a place to put it unless I move. I don't really have a use for it. I like driving the SWB more where I currently live at. I'm not sure I will have much use for it if I do move to a more rural area. I have two other summer vehicles that don't get enough attention as it is. I guess I'll just start driving it and keep plugging away at the little stuff that's left.
- Thread starter
- #476
Wired up the momentary switch to the delete plate garage door.
Wired up a push button two way switch to the center diff lock control and put it where the pull knob was. I might have to look into getting a FD label for it.
Put a shift plate on the glovebox door and adjusted the door so it stays shut. I'm still pretty pissed the graphics teacher punked out on getting the japanese ones printed. I havent started looking around to have someone else do it. In a city the size of Chicago there's gotta be someone. One of the few advantages to living in a big city.
Wired up a push button two way switch to the center diff lock control and put it where the pull knob was. I might have to look into getting a FD label for it.
Put a shift plate on the glovebox door and adjusted the door so it stays shut. I'm still pretty pissed the graphics teacher punked out on getting the japanese ones printed. I havent started looking around to have someone else do it. In a city the size of Chicago there's gotta be someone. One of the few advantages to living in a big city.
- Thread starter
- #478
I have a lock on the drivers door, but none on any of the others. I'm not sure if there's a way to lock the other doors from the inside. It seems pretty silly that there's just one door lock.
I would assume that yours is like the others I have seen then. The lock on the drivers door is in the push button on the outside. It does seem weird that the drivers door locks but not the others??? I may start a thread about LV locks just so we don't muck up your thread.
You press the inner door handle in and move foward if memory serves me!