4.5LV build
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Ha. Freakin' awesome. I just thought it didn't have locks. I went out and tested mine. All, but driver, push in and forward to lock. The driver door then locks from the outside with a key. The tailgate also locks from outside with a key. I feel both happy and alittle dumb for not knowing this sooner.....lol
- Thread starter
- #483
Busy day.
Cleaned up a bunch of wiring.
wired and mounted the switch for the delete plate door.
mounted the speakers.
mounted the vent door cable knob.
I had a later wiper switch because it has a two speed motor. So wire it up for a single speed switch, or have the wrong knob on it. I need both, so I cut the 6mm threaded insert out of the later knob, turned it down and epoxied it into the early knob. Now it pulls rather than turns, but it works for a two speed motor and fits into the correct hole in the dash.
found and mounted and wired the plug for the work light.
Mounted the winch motor I got from Tucker. The gear that engages the winch is part of the motor shaft on the Bellevue. The warn replacement gear fits neither the Tucker motor or the winch. I put the shaft in the Tucker motor. it fits well, but it doesn't work. it must be the part that's bad. I chucked the end of the motor shaft into a drill and spooled the winch with cable. I even wired up the winch knowing the motor doesn't work, but it's not like this truck is going to be needing a winch anyway.
Took the steering wheel off and epoxied up the cracks.
installed the door window outside weatherstripping. Left the inner felts in place in the rear. Put in a pair of 40 series felts in the front door. They are too short, but they keep the windows from rattling until I can find something that fits.
And moved my new Baileigh Ironworker into place for it to get wired.
Cleaned up a bunch of wiring.
wired and mounted the switch for the delete plate door.
mounted the speakers.
mounted the vent door cable knob.
I had a later wiper switch because it has a two speed motor. So wire it up for a single speed switch, or have the wrong knob on it. I need both, so I cut the 6mm threaded insert out of the later knob, turned it down and epoxied it into the early knob. Now it pulls rather than turns, but it works for a two speed motor and fits into the correct hole in the dash.
found and mounted and wired the plug for the work light.
Mounted the winch motor I got from Tucker. The gear that engages the winch is part of the motor shaft on the Bellevue. The warn replacement gear fits neither the Tucker motor or the winch. I put the shaft in the Tucker motor. it fits well, but it doesn't work. it must be the part that's bad. I chucked the end of the motor shaft into a drill and spooled the winch with cable. I even wired up the winch knowing the motor doesn't work, but it's not like this truck is going to be needing a winch anyway.
Took the steering wheel off and epoxied up the cracks.
installed the door window outside weatherstripping. Left the inner felts in place in the rear. Put in a pair of 40 series felts in the front door. They are too short, but they keep the windows from rattling until I can find something that fits.
And moved my new Baileigh Ironworker into place for it to get wired.
Last edited:
Did you go with the JC whitney outside WS or the 40 series?
what 2 speed wiper motor did you use and does it mount without any modifications?
- Thread starter
- #487
I don't know for sure. I had it laying around. Its not a top mount 40. Might be a 73 55. It fit without modification, but the throw is too short. I need to extend the arm.
- Thread starter
- #488
Repainted the steering column. It didn't come out since it was welded in and it got some over-spray on it over the past few years.
Rebent the brake pedal. That was interesting. Two layers of sheet metal with an air gap between them to protect the wires. Got it orange and gave it a tweak.
Sanded down the epoxy in the steering wheel and used filler to clean it up. Then plastic primer and plastic paint and it came out pretty nice.
The front exhaust manifold had worked loose with some heat cycles where it attached to the down pipe, so I tightened that up.
Razor bladed all the windows and cleaned them up.
Reset the front seats to be level. they were a tiny bit kittywompus, but it was really obvious looking through the rear window.
replaced the vent window and rear view mirror screws with correct ones.
Found some 1/4" window woven pile weatherstrip and used it as a gasket for the cowl vent door. I think it will work well. It looks pretty good.
Found the spot where the trouble light plug is supposed to go and remounted it.
Drove it.
Last edited:
I have to say, you are a very productive person. knocking a lot of stuff off the list. Still thinking on selling it.
- Thread starter
- #492
I bought a push button two way switch. It powers on one way when the button is out and powers on the other way when the button is in. It also lights up when it's on. It's the chrome button where the FD knob would be. Visible just over the right cross bar on the steering wheel.
- Thread starter
- #495
I didn't have a FD switch in the dash. I did buy a pull switch at one time to try and replicate it, but I took it apart to make it a A/B switch instead of a on/off like they mostly are and now I can't find all the parts.
The lever is high/low range. Right now high is out and low is in. I have to figure out how to switch it around. Its on my list of things still to do.
If you use the CDL relay box then it is just power on one wire to lock and power on the other wire to unlock. On the above switch the center is power in, one side is power out button out, the other is power out button in. The outer two most wires are for the LED on the switch. I have it wired so it only lights when the CDL is locked.
If you don't use the CDL relay box and use relays instead you need three relays and the wiring is somewhat complicated. There are some diagrams here on Mud. It's the same set up as an e-locker.
Just got back from a store run. The wife drove. Might be tough to pry it away from her. I used this drive train specifically to make it as easy to drive and reliable as an 80. I think it needs a steering damper and the rear brakes adjusted up better.
The lever is high/low range. Right now high is out and low is in. I have to figure out how to switch it around. Its on my list of things still to do.
If you use the CDL relay box then it is just power on one wire to lock and power on the other wire to unlock. On the above switch the center is power in, one side is power out button out, the other is power out button in. The outer two most wires are for the LED on the switch. I have it wired so it only lights when the CDL is locked.
If you don't use the CDL relay box and use relays instead you need three relays and the wiring is somewhat complicated. There are some diagrams here on Mud. It's the same set up as an e-locker.
Just got back from a store run. The wife drove. Might be tough to pry it away from her. I used this drive train specifically to make it as easy to drive and reliable as an 80. I think it needs a steering damper and the rear brakes adjusted up better.
- Thread starter
- #499
Seemed like a light day today.
Took the drive shafts out and took them to get re-tubed and balanced.
installed the steering stabilizer
found a little slop in the driver's front. It was a loose bearing. Fixed that.
Adjusted the rear brakes.
re-painted the bezel. It had a chip where the winch hit it and there was a light patch on the top lip.
re-painted the pass door window frame. It had a light area too.
masked and painted the top of the tail gate. When I was color sanding I could see a hint of the primer. The edge between the colors came out nice. The pic came out blurry.
Took the drive shafts out and took them to get re-tubed and balanced.
installed the steering stabilizer
found a little slop in the driver's front. It was a loose bearing. Fixed that.
Adjusted the rear brakes.
re-painted the bezel. It had a chip where the winch hit it and there was a light patch on the top lip.
re-painted the pass door window frame. It had a light area too.
masked and painted the top of the tail gate. When I was color sanding I could see a hint of the primer. The edge between the colors came out nice. The pic came out blurry.
- Thread starter
- #500
Finished the knobs that come out easy. I still have to do the throttle. That one has to have the whole cable come out.
Put weatherstripping between the tail gate and the inner tail gate panel. Quieted that down.
Rebuilt two of the rear wheel cylinders.
Re painted one fender and a section of quarter panel that had gotten scratched.
Went and picked up the drive shafts and installed those.
Installed the transfer case skid plate.
Drove it home and drove it to get ice cream and back. Drive shafts make a big difference when they are built right and balanced vs. mocked up
Ordered a dome light and a pair of rear seat belts.
Put weatherstripping between the tail gate and the inner tail gate panel. Quieted that down.
Rebuilt two of the rear wheel cylinders.
Re painted one fender and a section of quarter panel that had gotten scratched.
Went and picked up the drive shafts and installed those.
Installed the transfer case skid plate.
Drove it home and drove it to get ice cream and back. Drive shafts make a big difference when they are built right and balanced vs. mocked up
Ordered a dome light and a pair of rear seat belts.