4.56
- Thread starter exm38a1er
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Q:5x4.5 lug pattern.
A: Maybe in 2WD. Why would you want a weaker setup?
Q: 4.56 and an e-locker.
A: Not sure which model, but a 4.56 e-locker is available from Toyota. I would guess auto tranny model Tacoma or 4Runner.
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Most 2wd Toyota truck axles were a 5X4.5 lug pattern, the problem is that they come with a 7 inch differential, which can not be swapped out for an E locker. I believe there is a "heavy" 2wd axle (maybe V6 trucks???) that comes with an 8 inch differential that can be swapped out for the E locker.
I do not think you will find a stock axle with an E locker and a 5 lug pattern. The later 2wd vehicles that came stock with the E locker (96+ Tacomas and 4Runners) all retained the 6 lug patter.
So it can be done, but you will have to retro-fit the E locker into an early axle housing, which is not that big of a deal.
I do not think you will find a stock axle with an E locker and a 5 lug pattern. The later 2wd vehicles that came stock with the E locker (96+ Tacomas and 4Runners) all retained the 6 lug patter.
So it can be done, but you will have to retro-fit the E locker into an early axle housing, which is not that big of a deal.
THIS...
EDIT: He doesn't want to do that. That's why he wants a 2WD axle, for the 5 lug pattern so it matches his front.
I BELIEVE he can get a blank or un-drilled axle and have it made to his bolt pattern. I think there is a vendor that can do it, but I'm not sure... I've never needed to know this.
OP, you'd prolly have BOUGHT a Toyota 4WD BTT you get your Jeep where you think you want it...
And try the Ford 8.8" (?) in the exploders... I think that's the popular thing.
Or just do this. Read the description...
The AX15 is the R150... So... Uhm... Yeah....
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Well is you want to keep it 5 lug you have two choices, get a elocker toyota axle and buy wheel adapters i think spydertrax has them, or like hilux said get a ford 8.8 explorer axle gear it and weld on the brakets and buckets for you links and coils. I have a friend who just did this to his ZJ and he likes it, just need to be able to fabricate a little
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I think there is no 5 lug 4.56 and e-locker all in one...
From which model yours was taken ?
To prev ps...
I DO wonna junk my Dana 35.The axles that are good for me
are only 6 lugs.If i put an adapter they will end up too wide.
It has to be WMS to WMS 60.5"...
Any idea for what HIlux said(blank or redrilled?)
From which model yours was taken ?
To prev ps...
I DO wonna junk my Dana 35.The axles that are good for me
are only 6 lugs.If i put an adapter they will end up too wide.
It has to be WMS to WMS 60.5"...
Any idea for what HIlux said(blank or redrilled?)
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Fixed it:
Seriously, with the money you'd spend swapping out those twigs Chrysler threw under your yeep; you could just buy a beater mini.
Seriously, with the money you'd spend swapping out those twigs Chrysler threw under your yeep; you could just buy a beater mini.
Locker w/4.56 gears - 41110-3D010, list price $1359.24. $1019.43 from a discount dealer.
Ya know, discussion should have stopped there, but no, you boys just can't stop picking a fight. WDE is right, suck it up. A 4.56 e-locker is available from Toyota, part number above. Don't believe me, go to your favorite dealer and ask. Go online and look. I considered an e-locker once. Alas, I went with ARB.
I don't give a rip if it was ever used in a 5 lug axle. You are challenging the existence of a 4.56 e-locker from Toyota. WDE said he bought his from Toyota. It wasn't "taken" from anything.
Look in 4-cylinder 4Runners, 1996-2000, more or less.
Ya know, discussion should have stopped there, but no, you boys just can't stop picking a fight. WDE is right, suck it up. A 4.56 e-locker is available from Toyota, part number above. Don't believe me, go to your favorite dealer and ask. Go online and look. I considered an e-locker once. Alas, I went with ARB.
I don't give a rip if it was ever used in a 5 lug axle. You are challenging the existence of a 4.56 e-locker from Toyota. WDE said he bought his from Toyota. It wasn't "taken" from anything.
Who knew?what model?
Look in 4-cylinder 4Runners, 1996-2000, more or less.
If it was me, I'd forget about trying to match the 5 lug...
Swap in/out the other and make them BOTH 6 lugs...
I don't know if you're aware, so I'll tell ya... (B/c I used to think Toyota axles were weak and leaked)
Toyota axles are VARY strong, for their size. They are built JUST LIKE the Ford 9". And you don't see many ppl complaining about how weak their Ford 9" axles are, do ya?
If you see them leaking at the swipe seals that's NOT Toyota's fault. That's a lazy ass owner.
If those seals are leaking that means the inner axle shaft seals that keep the diff OIL away from the joint GREASE are blown.
S.O.P is NOT to put zerks in the grease fillers or hub dials (I've seen both) and just keep the Birfields pumped with grease, IT'S CHANGE THE DANG SEALS!
What happens is, the oil mixes with the grease and lowers the protective viscosity of the grease, now enter a turned joint and power and that's BANG! A blowed Birfield...
But LAZY ass red-neck jerks that think they can fix everything wind up breaking them and that's the story you get... "Bierfields are weak"
No, they are not. Lazy ppl are weak.
Face it. Toyota axles are:
1) lighter
2) have more ground clearance
3) easier to build
4) stronger
5) have the debris protection of a closed knuckle.
6) And are prolly easier to come by...
Damn, there went the cat.... Right outta tha bag
EDIT: Now all you need is a bad-ass fully boxed frame, an impeccably made cab to put on it with the best electronics, wiring and weather connectors you can find, and an engine reputed to 300,000 trouble-free miles... With PROPER PM.
Swap in/out the other and make them BOTH 6 lugs...
I don't know if you're aware, so I'll tell ya... (B/c I used to think Toyota axles were weak and leaked)
Toyota axles are VARY strong, for their size. They are built JUST LIKE the Ford 9". And you don't see many ppl complaining about how weak their Ford 9" axles are, do ya?
If you see them leaking at the swipe seals that's NOT Toyota's fault. That's a lazy ass owner.
If those seals are leaking that means the inner axle shaft seals that keep the diff OIL away from the joint GREASE are blown.
S.O.P is NOT to put zerks in the grease fillers or hub dials (I've seen both) and just keep the Birfields pumped with grease, IT'S CHANGE THE DANG SEALS!
What happens is, the oil mixes with the grease and lowers the protective viscosity of the grease, now enter a turned joint and power and that's BANG! A blowed Birfield...
But LAZY ass red-neck jerks that think they can fix everything wind up breaking them and that's the story you get... "Bierfields are weak"
No, they are not. Lazy ppl are weak.
Face it. Toyota axles are:
1) lighter
2) have more ground clearance
3) easier to build
4) stronger
5) have the debris protection of a closed knuckle.
6) And are prolly easier to come by...
Damn, there went the cat.... Right outta tha bag
EDIT: Now all you need is a bad-ass fully boxed frame, an impeccably made cab to put on it with the best electronics, wiring and weather connectors you can find, and an engine reputed to 300,000 trouble-free miles... With PROPER PM.
Last edited:
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THANK YOU!!!!!
Back when I was truck-shopping, one guy was trying to foist a rig off on me that was in dire need of shop time (blown main seal, leaky axles, dead carb etc. etc.)
I pointed out the grease dripping down from THREE hubs, and he just kept saying: "oh, no, that's a Toyota thing. There's no problem."
He got really mad when I walked away, and told him the leaky selas were a dumb owner thing.
Inspect your axles regularly. (Every other oil change is my routine)
Rant-mode off.
Back when I was truck-shopping, one guy was trying to foist a rig off on me that was in dire need of shop time (blown main seal, leaky axles, dead carb etc. etc.)
I pointed out the grease dripping down from THREE hubs, and he just kept saying: "oh, no, that's a Toyota thing. There's no problem."
He got really mad when I walked away, and told him the leaky selas were a dumb owner thing.
Inspect your axles regularly. (Every other oil change is my routine)
Rant-mode off.
If it was me, I'd forget about trying to match the 5 lug...
Swap in/out the other and make them BOTH 6 lugs...
I don't know if you're aware, so I'll tell ya... (B/c I used to think Toyota axles were weak and leaked)
Toyota axles are VARY strong, for their size. They are built JUST LIKE the Ford 9". And you don't see many ppl complaining about how weak their Ford 9" axles are, do ya?
If you see them leaking at the swipe seals that's NOT Toyota's fault. That's a lazy ass owner.
If those seals are leaking that means the inner axle shaft seals that keep the diff OIL away from the joint GREASE are blown.
S.O.P is NOT to put zerks in the grease fillers or hub dials (I've seen both) and just keep the Birfields pumped with grease, IT'S CHANGE THE DANG SEALS!
What happens is, the oil mixes with the grease and lowers the protective viscosity of the grease, now enter a turned joint and power and that's BANG! A blowed Birfield...
But LAZY ass red-neck jerks that think they can fix everything wind up breaking them and that's the story you get... "Bierfields are weak"
No, they are not. Lazy ppl are weak.
Face it. Toyota axles are:
1) lighter
2) have more ground clearance
3) easier to build
4) stronger
5) have the debris protection of a closed knuckle.
6) And are prolly easier to come by...
Damn, there went the cat.... Right outta tha bag
EDIT: Now all you need is a bad-ass fully boxed frame, an impeccably made cab to put on it with the best electronics, wiring and weather connectors you can find, and an engine reputed to 300,000 trouble-free miles... With PROPER PM.