3FE Discouraging tale (valves, oil galley, and knocking)

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jonheld said:
You mentioned that the ECU was throwing codes that a dealer couldn't diagnose. What were the codes?
For the record, the A440F transmission is not electronically controlled. It is a hydraulic unit.
The 3FE has an AFM (air flow meter) not a MAF.

The valves were adjusted and it ran well, then it didn't. This screams vacuum leaks to me. I'd be willing to bet that unmetered air is getting in somewhere.
The top end of the 3FE wants to be air tight. Leaks can develop from the valve cover gasket, valve cover grommets, side cover gasket, oil fill cap gasket, oil dipstick gasket, PCV valve grommet. All must be air tight.
Any crack/tear or loose clamp on the intake plenum will cause all sorts of issues.

It's a tractor motor from 1986. Always look for the simple things first.
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They never wrote them down, tried 3 times to get the codes. Pissed me off but what ya going to do. Didn't know that about the tranny, thanks! Sort of lit a fire under these guys today about the vacuum system based on your feedback, they swear to double-check it. I just want the darn thing back in the garage so I can work on it myself. Thanks.
 
you can pull the codes by shorting the T and the E1 terminals in the connector on the firewall. the check engine light will blink the codes... IIRC
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
@DeeRex how did your ECU react when you did your desmog? No issues?
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Sorry for the late reply - work/life balance has been tough as of late.
I had zero issues after my desmog. I haven't come across anyone with a 3FE having issues after desmog. Never seen codes thrown or anything. Only seen that with 1FZ engines -- that's where the resistor hack comes in.

I'd definitely stop relying on what someone else is telling you about pulling codes. Grab a paperclip and do it yourself. It's super easy and you can confirm for yourself.

-Derek
 
DeeRex said:
Sorry for the late reply - work/life balance has been tough as of late.
I had zero issues after my desmog. I haven't come across anyone with a 3FE having issues after desmog. Never seen codes thrown or anything. Only seen that with 1FZ engines -- that's where the resistor hack comes in.

I'd definitely stop relying on what someone else is telling you about pulling codes. Grab a paperclip and do it yourself. It's super easy and you can confirm for yourself.

-Derek
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Good to know about the desmog. Thanks!
 
DeeRex said:
Sorry for the late reply - work/life balance has been tough as of late.
I had zero issues after my desmog. I haven't come across anyone with a 3FE having issues after desmog. Never seen codes thrown or anything. Only seen that with 1FZ engines -- that's where the resistor hack comes in.

I'd definitely stop relying on what someone else is telling you about pulling codes. Grab a paperclip and do it yourself. It's super easy and you can confirm for yourself.

-Derek
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Code #28 and #42. #2 O2 sensor (#2 signal) and speed sensor). O2 sensors were replaced back to factory (both of them) and speed sensor was thrown bc the cable broke, since fixed.

Just got the truck back after 7 months! Basically seems this independent shop didn't really want to take on a possible rebuild so they didn't really touch the engine other than replacing the AFM. This was very discouraging because the new AFM replacement doesn't seem to fix anything. Yet they were very firm the stock one replaced was in fact not 100% on the bench test. Basically the test found the original AFM did nothing once the throttle was increased beyond 50%. Potentially the knock is gone but haven't put 87 in it yet.

They claim vacuum system and intake system were checked for leaks, think I'll be checking behind them. Trust but verify.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
@DeeRex how did your ECU react when you did your desmog? No issues?

IIRC, there is a resistor hack you can do, similar to the 80s, that fools the ECU to thinking that the EGR is working properly, but it's been a long while.

Perhaps @jonheld has a few moments to provide thoughts on the points in post #48?
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Latest. I'm broken down on the side of the road. Interstate 74 half way between Lumberton and Whiteville. Was keeping the throttle steady but kept getting intermittent resistance, almost like the breaks were grabbing and letting go. No change in RPM, engine temp or oil pressure. Kept getting worse, add throttle and it got worse, like the throttle became the brakes. @Trollhole or @GLTHFJ60 or anybody have any ideas?
 
Do some troubleshooting. Does the engine run? Does the transmission shift? In drive, when you rev the engine up, what happens? RPM, feel, etc.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Do some troubleshooting. Does the engine run? Does the transmission shift? In drive, when you rev the engine up, what happens? RPM, feel, etc.
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It shifts, it drives. If I slam the gas it will downshaft at expected but lurch (truck not rpm). Driving around at 30/35 as I was finding a good place to pull off it was not as pronounced. I did notice before this was happening that 2200rpm in 4th gear gave me 70 (and that is what I had been holding for the past almost 2 hours) and then right before this happened I needed 2400 to 2500rpm to get 70.
 
Have you checked if the transmission has fluid?

Troubleshooting means checking things, not just telling us what you see.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Have you checked if the transmission has fluid?

Troubleshooting means checking things, not just telling us what you see.
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Sorry, yes tranny fluid is at the correct place for hot, right in the middle. Engine oil as well. See no evidence of any leaking fluids under the vehicle.
 
Have you checked for vacuum leaks yet?

Did you do the De-smog??
 
lt1fire said:
I can't remember did you test the TPS?
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Need to research how to check the TPS. Huge issues with throttle response. No desmog yet, no vacuum leaks, went over the top of the engine well. Longer you run it, hotter it gets, hotter it is outside worse it got. Got 2 hrs straight, then had to let it rest for an hour. Then got another hour barely, almost would not go, not surging but chugging. No massive movements from the RPM, barely got through first then dropped into second and she wouldn't go, chug chug, tossing you back n forth a little in the seat. Idle acceleration really all I got. Let her rest and cool down in the shade again for an hour and then made it home, all be it much less power each n every time. All fluids perfect, 93 gas, been sitting in the garage now for hours no leaks, no indications from any of the instruments no smells. But it did sound like the valves were getting louder. Started to have a noticeable tick tick tick even at idle.

Only thing I can think maybe the valves got tighter and tighter the hotter it got. Anybody out there run the 3fe with mud 35s at 70 mph for almost 3 hrs straight on a 100 degree day. Would love to know what your engine is telling you to compare.

Thanks for all the help!
 
Shot in the dark, but latest symptoms sounds a lot like a torque converter issue. So much weirdness though... multiple issues maybe.
 
mtweller said:
Shot in the dark, but latest symptoms sounds a lot like a torque converter issue. So much weirdness though... multiple issues maybe.
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I totally take that back after reading your last post. Sorry, no idea.
 
Can’t recall if you’ve checked/replaced if needed...wiring related to injectors and ignition components? Sounds like maybe the hotter the engine bay gets the more issues you are seeing. Would an injector dumping fuel into a cylinder and it not firing cause the braking sensation you’re feeling?

Do you experience the same throttle symptoms while in neutral revving the engine?

Disclaimer: I mention the above with zero 3fe experience.
 
S4Cruiser said:
Can’t recall if you’ve checked/replaced if needed...wiring related to injectors and ignition components? Sounds like maybe the hotter the engine bay gets the more issues you are seeing. Would an injector dumping fuel into a cylinder and it not firing cause the braking sensation you’re feeling?

Do you experience the same throttle symptoms while in neutral revving the engine?

Disclaimer: I mention the above with zero 3fe experience.
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In neutral you would never know you had an issue, other than maybe some valve noise. Idle was rough at first this morning until she got up to operating temps.
 
So the hotter the car gets this problem starts? Is it overheating at all? Your 80 should get to operating temperature in no time at all so the two hours and then it starts to hiccup means something is heat soaking and then failing.

Does it cut off when it goes bad?
 
I honestly think you have multiple issues - and one of them is in the tranny/torque converter. We need to start a pool!
 
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