3FE BB EGR disable: who has done it on a 62? (1 Viewer)

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HemiAlex

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I want to troubleshoot the egr before I remove all the smog stuff.

If the EGR being disabled fixes the misfire at idle that comes and goes, I’ll likely clean and rebuild the egr and leave all the smog stuff on for now. I’ve got the shorter belt and the desmog stuff from JimC.

My question is this: does anyone have a pretty diagram like this one available for the 3FE in a 62 to show where they put bb’s to disable the egr? If not, I will work to figure it out and recreate it.

Paging @Kleatus @4Cruisers @red66toy @Spook50


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Last edited:
I want to troubleshoot the egr before I remove all the smog stuff.

If the EGR being disabled fixes the misfire at idle that comes and goes, I’ll likely clean and rebuild the egr and leave all the smog stuff on for now. I’ve got the shorter belt and the desmog stuff from JimC.

My question is this: does anyone have a pretty diagram like this one available for the 3FE in a 62 to show where they put bb’s to disable the egr? If not, I will work to figure it out and recreate it.

Paging @Kleatus @4Cruisers @red66toy @Spook50


View attachment 2946638
The BB trick is new to me. I never actually disabled my EGR, rather I straight up removed it. If I remember, it was still operating normally until I did so I don't think I had fiddled with it beforehand.
 
The BB trick is new to me. I never actually disabled my EGR, rather I straight up removed it. If I remember, it was still operating normally until I did so I don't think I had fiddled with it beforehand.
I’ve got a coming and going misfire at idle. Seems to go away when you drive it after sitting and cold.

The thought is that the ECU command to the egr is slow or randomly stuck and causing a huge vacuum leak that comes and goes.

It runs amazing at a 650 idle after the new TPS Install and calibration, and then it doesn’t.

Still happy with how it runs, but it seems like it loses the smooth idle at random times. Like the Idle speed controller can’t keep up with the leak.
 
Maybe remove the EGR valve and clean it well and re-install it. I don’t know if disabling the EGR on a 3F-E is a good idea.
 
Maybe remove the EGR valve and clean it well and re-install it. I don’t know if disabling the EGR on a 3F-E is a good idea.
I agree, I want to purely disable it for testing.

I would like to keep it all factory if possible.
 
If the EGR plunger is sticking, causing a small vacuum leak, plugging any vacuum hoses with a BB won’t change that.
 
If the EGR plunger is sticking, causing a small vacuum leak, plugging any vacuum hoses with a BB won’t change that.
It could help narrow that down. It sounds like the issue goes away when he drives the rig. If you deactivate the EGR and the symptom now never goes away, then it seems like that would point to the EGR being the culprit. Maybe once the engine warms up the actuating rod is not as "sticky" and it closes better, just not when cold.
 
That’s what it feels like. It idled poorly, I drove it 50 miles home and it ran like a top.

Then the next cold start it was terrible til it got heat into it. Seems like a few strong revs clear it up for a while.

I imagine the egr is basically solid with carbon coke.
 
I would like to do a total desmog by removing everything that is not needed.
Can you send me pictures of what the result will look like?
Thank you
 
@HemiAlex I’ve been wanting to test this on my truck as well. I came across this thread— see post 31.

 
@HemiAlex I’ve been wanting to test this on my truck as well. I came across this thread— see post 31.


Can confirm plugging these vacuum lines immediately fixed my high idle issue and hopefully gets my MPGs back to where they were.

FORE!

Next, decide what to do about it long-term. At least I don’t have to rush now.

Before:
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After:
8AD480B8-26D4-4DCA-A6D6-31FF801C02E6.jpeg
 

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