EGR Desmog - 88 FJ62 (1 Viewer)

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Phase 1:

Well - the LC has been running rough at idle after warm, and reading up a lot on these boards got me to thinking to just do a desmog on her.

I have a desire to put in a second battery, anyway.

So my primary resource was Spook50s FAQ - I just printed the thing off - you will need it:

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/pdf/3FE-Desmog_Guide.pdf

Here is a link to that main thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/47092-3f-e-desmog-guide-up.html

Also spent some time in other threads and had help from a few of you, as well.

I've attached a couple pics and I have a final movie (Linked).

The first pic is of the engine in stock form.


A. PARTS

The first thing I did was assemble all the parts. (see pic).

I bought some stuff on Amazon. I got the OEM parts down at Molle. I bought the silicone, high heat tubing from McMaster-Carr. It's PN: 5041K522. Official name is "Metric High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Tubing, Firm, 3 mm ID, 8 mm OD, 2.5 mm Wall, Blue" I will be replacing other lines with it as it warms up. I went with the Gates belt vs the Dayco as the Gates was easier for me to find online. It is PN TR22525.

1. CATS:
I skipped Spook50s removal of the CATS as I didn't really want to do that. I will go back with a high flow cat when I get the exhaust system redone, someday.


2. SMOG PUMP:

I then focused on step two of removing the smog pump lines. I have a couple "interim" solutions going on here - thus the "phase 1" title - but the bottom line is the smog pump is disconnected and puffing its little tiny puffs into the engine compartment now as I took off the exit tube that was headed to the head, previously. I left the tube from the MAF as I figured it would be best to get clean air first sucking/blowing at the pump. I will be removing the pump as soon as it gets warmer!! I have to put on the new belt then, too.

I also did NOT remove the 4 air ports from the smog pump, yet. Instead I just capped at the VCV w/ a cap, for now. Seems to work fine. Ended up using a 7/8" cap that goes on the bottom of a cane :) as the "Help!" brand cap was too darn small for the VCV fitting.


3. EGR REMOVAL

I first replaced the vacuum lines that I knew I was going to keep with the blue/clear silicone lines I got from McMaster Carr. You can see that in the third pic.
Land Cruiser 005.jpg
IMG00085-20110323-1614.jpg
Land Cruiser 006.jpg
 
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Joined
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3. EGR REMOVAL (continued)

I simply unbolted everything that comes from the smog pump or EGR as the last pictures show, capped the open lines as shown on Spook50s last picture and pulled the EGR off.

The EGR tube going into the manifold was SO DIRTY and probably the source for my issues as I am sure the EGR was clogged up. (see pics)

When all the EGR stuff was done I had a bunch of open holes to plug (see pic).

It took some effort to clean the old gasket off. I scrapped and then buffed the aluminum.
Land Cruiser 008.jpg
Land Cruiser 010.jpg
Land Cruiser 009.jpg
 
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3. EGR REMOVAL (continued)

So the final step was to plug everything back up. I had to deviate from Spook50s FAQ a bit here as it was too cold and snowing and wanted to get the truck drive-able.

I wasn't able to get all the brass fitting on the forward exhaust manifold out. The EGR tube fitting came off EASILY, but the 1" brass fitting in the manifold was TIGHTLY on. I ended up just buying a brace 3/4" cap and putting it on. I used some of the high temp anti-seise and a pipe wrench to put it on.

As stated earlier, I capped the VCV from the pump to the head spots with a rubber cane bottom (worked great - was tight, but got it on there).

The EGR block off plate worked well. Need to find the correct torque values - will update this after I do. Before I put it on I had to really clean out the dirty hole! (see pic). I put on some surgical gloves, and just stuck each finger in and pulled out all the gunk I could get. Worked pretty well. By the second glove I used some WD40 to help clean the opening. I just sprayed my glove a bit with it and rubbed around a bit more :) I'll stop now before I feel anymore pornographic here.

Got the plate on, checked everything and then fired here up!

Please see the video of the final product, here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/115225301269944241382/LCDesmogPhase1#5588927697720070770



4. TEST DRIVE

IMMEDIATELY: I noticed she started MUCH easier. She ran at 1100 rpms for a good while longer than typical. In fact I decided to take her around the block before she got down to 650 rpms. I know that in one of the posts it was stated that the ECU has to relearn the sensed issues.

I haven't done a ECU test for codes yet, but she was clear PRIOR to the desmog.

More to come in Phase 2. Thanks for looking and feel free to IM me or email me at jbuster4@gmail.com if any questions. Thanks,
Land Cruiser 011.jpg
 
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Spook50

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Glad to see it's working out for you. One thing I'd recommend to do different from my guide is instead of using brass plugs, remove the union from the exhaust manifold (you're gonna need an impact to do this. TRUST ME). cut one of the threaded portions off, and weld a steel cap onto it so you basically have a "factory fit" plug for the EGR port. The brass plugs didn't work too well because of the amount they'd expand and contract in temperature changes. I'd drive the truck and when it cooled down afterward, the brass would contract and end up loose and rattling. I never had them fall out but they came damn close a couple times. The modified EGR union ended up being a MUCH better way to go.
 

tornadoalleycruiser

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your talking about where the EGR goes into the exhaust at approx cylinder #2?
I would guess the easiest is to unbolt the egr from the manifold, plug the original steel threaded insert and use it as a metal cap? Am I reading that correctly?
 
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Glad to see it's working out for you. One thing I'd recommend to do different from my guide is instead of using brass plugs, remove the union from the exhaust manifold (you're gonna need an impact to do this. TRUST ME). cut one of the threaded portions off, and weld a steel cap onto it so you basically have a "factory fit" plug for the EGR port. The brass plugs didn't work too well because of the amount they'd expand and contract in temperature changes. I'd drive the truck and when it cooled down afterward, the brass would contract and end up loose and rattling. I never had them fall out but they came damn close a couple times. The modified EGR union ended up being a MUCH better way to go.
That union for me is a brass piece with male threads in the manifold and male threads sticking out (might be two pieces??). Its 3/4" brass. I put a female brass cap on it. I put some of the high temperature anti-seize on it. I used a pipe wrench to tighten. I'll have to check it until I can fully repair.

That union is like 25MM?

I will need a new manifold soon - will drive it until the leaks get worse. Priced them out - not cheap but cheaper OEM vs the Man-a-free headers.

The new manifold appears to have a union that is the same material - I guess just steel - they aren't stainless are they?
 
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your talking about where the EGR goes into the exhaust at approx cylinder #2?
I would guess the easiest is to unbolt the egr from the manifold, plug the original steel threaded insert and use it as a metal cap? Am I reading that correctly?
Ahh - nice idea. I'll take a look at that - may have to cut the tube piece off. But you would think it would be OK.

I just bought a brass cap - I think the heating / cooling issue would be the same?

I'll get some better pics up.
 
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How's the idle now? toss any codes out?
The idle has been gradually working its way down. Pretty weird - you would think it would be an immediate thing. I have driven it about 15 mins x 4. The first time the idle stayed near 1100 after starting at about 1500. The second time it went down to 1K. Third time went to ~900 and this last time it appears to be about 750.

At idle it feels near perfect now. It does seem to shift at higher RPMs - maybe the correct shift points. Shifting at 2-2.5K RPMs now for first few gears. It doesn't shift into 4th until about 55 mph. Not sure that is right or not - can't remember the old shift points - although if the engine is dogging, it would feel different possibly. Its new enough to me I can't remember.

I will check for codes tomorrow. If a code is present, does the check engine light come on? The FSM isn't real clear on that. Prior to the desmog I had no codes - did the test - freaked out when I got two flashes per second as I read the manual as one every two seconds the first time LOL.

The truck is parked at work preparing to go to Techtafab for new bumpers :)
 

tornadoalleycruiser

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Show that piece to Duane for the plug. He can look at it just as I explained and tell you if welding it shut with a plug would work or not. I just don't see that cap in the picture that's why i'm asking and honestly havent' done enough research on desmogging yet to know any better. Was just hoping you'd work out the bugs and guide a few of us :)

Your nifty plate on and installed?
 
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Show that piece to Duane for the plug. He can look at it just as I explained and tell you if welding it shut with a plug would work or not. I just don't see that cap in the picture that's why i'm asking and honestly havent' done enough research on desmogging yet to know any better. Was just hoping you'd work out the bugs and guide a few of us :)

Your nifty plate on and installed?
Yea I show the plug in the video, but I need to post up a picture of it. I will do so when I get her home tonight.

The plate is on too. The only issue is I took it to 20 ft/lbs and got scared - seemed like a lot of torque. The bolt shows 35-43 ft/lbs in the manual depending on grade. Steel into Aluminum scares the be-jesus out of me.
 
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Checked for codes and it was good!

Attached are some more pics.

You can see the cap I put on - just a 3/4" brass pipe cap.

Wondering if it even is possibly cooler since it is a ways from the manifold.
P1010613.jpg
P1010614.jpg
P1010615.jpg
 

Spook50

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your talking about where the EGR goes into the exhaust at approx cylinder #2?
I would guess the easiest is to unbolt the egr from the manifold, plug the original steel threaded insert and use it as a metal cap? Am I reading that correctly?
That's the one. It'll be a steel union. I removed the EGR pipe, then had to use an impact to get the union out. I cut one threaded portion off and then welded a cap in place. Ground it down to match the hex head and popped it back into place with the impact on the low torque setting. Worked WAY better than using brass plugs.
 
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How did the desmog work out for you?

I am very interested in how the desmog turned out for you.
I have an 1989 fj62 and I've been reading all the posts on desmogging.
I found yours and it seems like it was the most recent even though it's a couple years ago.
Can you tell me what the biggest advantage was for you?
What was the biggest disadvantage?
Did you have any issues at all with the truck running correctly?
How did the ecu act with all those parts removed?
Knowing all that you know now about the desmog on the 62 - would you do it again?
Anything else you can tel me is much appreciated since I would love to learn from your experiences with the process.

In my case my truck is running pretty good and not throwing any codes. So I really don't want to cause any new problems if there are any associated with doing this.

Thanks a lot.

Btw - I saw where you sold your 62 and it really looked like a nice truck. I wish I were in then market for one back then.
 
Joined
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I am very interested in how the desmog turned out for you.
I have an 1989 fj62 and I've been reading all the posts on desmogging.
I found yours and it seems like it was the most recent even though it's a couple years ago.
Can you tell me what the biggest advantage was for you?
What was the biggest disadvantage?
Did you have any issues at all with the truck running correctly?
How did the ecu act with all those parts removed?
Knowing all that you know now about the desmog on the 62 - would you do it again?
Anything else you can tel me is much appreciated since I would love to learn from your experiences with the process.

In my case my truck is running pretty good and not throwing any codes. So I really don't want to cause any new problems if there are any associated with doing this.

Thanks a lot.

Btw - I saw where you sold your 62 and it really looked like a nice truck. I wish I were in then market for one back then.
Thanks, KG.

Q: Can you tell me what the biggest advantage was for you?

A: My truck was running rougher than I thought it should. When I pulled the EGR, I could see why - years of sludge there.

Q: What was the biggest disadvantage?

A: I don't think it is legal in all states to do that.

Q: Did you have any issues at all with the truck running correctly?

A: No. It does take time for the ECU to review the new O2 that it senses and it automatically corrected and adjusted. Spook50's guide tells exactly what to expect.

Q: How did the ecu act with all those parts removed?

A: It idles high until it understands what is going on and then after a couple drives you find it back to normal idle.

Q: Knowing all that you know now about the desmog on the 62 - would you do it again?

A: I would have on that truck - it ran much better without.

Q: Anything else you can tell me is much appreciated since I would love to learn from your experiences with the process.

A: If your truck is running well, though, I wouldn't mess with it. Be sure to triple check your local laws on EGR - I know in CA you can't do this.
 

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