- Thread starter
- #61
Thanks Mat, yup... been busy. The chassis might win something, but the body will still be beat/ rusty. But as we all know, it's all about the mechanics, the body is superficial.
3FE - 5 speed and a bit more
- Thread starter Granite Grinder
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Got a few little things buttoned up tonight. Made the tranny look purdy, and got it all bolted in, no more jack stand holding the rear of the motor up. All bolted and torqued. Progress will be slowing down, Land Cruiser club meeting on Thursday, then off to Calgary on Saturday morning (maybe even Friday night) for ten days with the girls. Man, I thought I'd be driving my new (to me) 5 speed there... sigh!
damn, nice paint job, did you use something fancy that resits oil or a basic spray can?
Have you taken the transmission apart and did a rebuild or not?
Have you taken the transmission apart and did a rebuild or not?
- Thread starter
- #64
Paint is Tremclad, brushed on. I'll put something (probably POR-15) in the frame when the chassis makes it's way over to Rob/ Ciarans. Took the shift housing off the tranny and had a boo inside, everything looks good. New seals/ gaskets/ bushing and she's waiting for the t-case. I'm doing an FYI McNamara gear, Steve's got an input shaft he's willing to sacrifice and a couple of PTO gears I can shave down. I'll build a jig for the procedure then probably give it back to Steve. I'm sure others wouldn't mind being able to build the same.
- Thread starter
- #65
Finally got a bit of work done, found some 4* shims kicking around and thought I'd install them
- Thread starter
- #66
Here are the body mount cups, starting from the front
- Thread starter
- #67
Next three, might be handy for anyone thinking of a body lift. Got more done, front third is in, cleaned up the knuckles and found out I threw away the twisty metal ring (twisty ring, felt, rubber) and the two piece retainers to hold the whole kit and kaboodle on.
Very cool. It looks like only two of them (one per side I should say) will need any trimming down of the poly boat roller stock and 2.5" dia. pucks will fit into all the rest with a little coaxing possibly needed on a few.
From the looks of the pics those holes all look to be about 7/8" diameter. Looks like I'll have to find some sort of 5/8" id 7/8" od washers of either just plastic or a soft enough metal that I can trim them down slightly if needed.
Looks like my body lift & mount bushing replacement idea might work! Be a bit more work than I originally bargained for, but for what should be less than half the cost of a poly mount/lift kit. Now to do up my parts list from McMaster-Carr....
BTW how much lift do you have? I'm wanting to put a set of caster shims under my front axle (I'm SUA as well) but need to figure out what my caster is with where my truck's sitting now. Was planning on getting a pair of steel shims from Roger Brown.
I've also learned (the painful way) to always wear my steel toed work boots when working on my Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #69
Spook50, sorry for the not so clear pictures, I had to hold the tape in my right hand and shoot with the left. Apparently cameras are not designed for left handed shooting, These are 2.5" Dakars, heavy/ heavy, not sure if shims are needed, the truck has 2.5" Beltons in it right now and could use some shims. I just happen to have some 4* bronze shims kicking around, thought I give them a go, I'll post results when I have 'em. I too have toe crunching horror story, something about a leaf spring pack bouncing off the floor and landing cleanly on my big toe... wasn't pretty. Since then I can't stand being in the shop without steel toes.
Phil,
Looking great. I'm really enjoying watching your build-up.
Just some info from my personal experience... The rear Dakars you have look like the ultra-heavy ones and unless you plan on a couple hundred pounds in the rear full-time, you might want to pull a leaf out so soften up the ride a bit. You also might have a pretty good stinkbug look if you keep all the leafs in.
Anyway, keep up the good work.
Looking great. I'm really enjoying watching your build-up.
Just some info from my personal experience... The rear Dakars you have look like the ultra-heavy ones and unless you plan on a couple hundred pounds in the rear full-time, you might want to pull a leaf out so soften up the ride a bit. You also might have a pretty good stinkbug look if you keep all the leafs in.
Anyway, keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #71
Ultra heavy 
didn't even know there was such a thing, thanks for the heads up.
didn't even know there was such a thing, thanks for the heads up.
Wow lots and lots of work done!
Ultra heavy
Ok, my terminology might be slightly off, but it is the spring pack with the most leaves that OME offers. I put about 200 lbs in the back and the spring didn't even begin to flex. Once I removed a leaf, the rear sat a little lower (still have a slight stinkbug) but the ride softened up a bit especially with a load.
Hope this helps a little.
I'm late to this party, but this is one great read. Thanks for taking the time to post up.
John
John
Phil,
Looking great. I'm really enjoying watching your build-up.
Just some info from my personal experience... The rear Dakars you have look like the ultra-heavy ones and unless you plan on a couple hundred pounds in the rear full-time, you might want to pull a leaf out so soften up the ride a bit. You also might have a pretty good stinkbug look if you keep all the leafs in.
Anyway, keep up the good work.
Okay in all my years of having and working on my 62 and all my time on Mud, this is only the second time I've heard the "stinkbug look" mentioned. Can someone please explain this to me?
If you want to go really heavy, OME sells extra leaves. I think the leaves I added are a D2XL. Took one of those shorty overloads off the bottom of the pack at the same time. Rides good but I do run heavy all the time. Also found that I needed an AAL in the front spring pack too. Original OME's were too soft.
Tony
Tony
- Thread starter
- #77
Once I drop the body on we'll have a look at it, still need to build a rear bumper with spare and jerry cans... that should be good for a couple hundred pounds.
Okay in all my years of having and working on my 62 and all my time on Mud, this is only the second time I've heard the "stinkbug look" mentioned. Can someone please explain this to me?
Somewhere there is a picture of a stinkbug posted, I'm way to lazy to look for it, but in a nutshell, stinkbugs are tall in the rear and not as tall in the front.
Must be that nice light motor you've got sitting up there, maybe swapping in a nice light gasser would the answer, get that suspension back to stock
Okay in all my years of having and working on my 62 and all my time on Mud, this is only the second time I've heard the "stinkbug look" mentioned. Can someone please explain this to me?
"Stinkbug" = rear springs lifting the back end higher than front springs lifting the front end as measured from the top of the rim to the wheel well. It was noticeable on my rig after installing my ARB medium/medium suspension. I had a visit with Kurt (Cruiser Outfitters) and this is normal. It's designed this way so that when you load up the back with all your expedition gear, your rig will have a level stance when you head into the outback. He also mentioned that the springs must be "broken in". The front springs break in (or maybe you could say settle in) much more quickly than the back springs due to the fact that the front is fully loaded with the engine being there. This makes the "stink bug" look more pronounced. He recommended loading up the back with 300 lbs of sand bags and driving around for a while. I have been doing so for the past couple of weeks, and the stance is getting more equalized over time, but still has a bit of stink bug to it.
Your choice is a bit of stink bug when you are unloaded, or a bit of hunkering down in the back when loaded.
