3D Printing Parts for the 80

[xetura]

Hey all. Here's some stuff I designed (3ds Max. I'm a game developer/artist/tech artist). I'm curious what filament colors/brands people are using? I saw that the Oak interior can be painted 'bronze' to match, but I haven't seen any other info on the dark grey, light grey, or the off-white (cream maybe?) color these interiors have.

Early 80 series ashtray acc mount.

"Subwoofer" acc mount.

I'm also designing an overhead console that deletes the sunroof controls, houses a 12 gang control panel, a cb and has swivel map lights. I'll post that when the design is further along.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Hey all. Here's some stuff I designed (3ds Max. I'm a game developer/artist/tech artist). I'm curious what filament colors/brands people are using? I saw that the Oak interior can be painted 'bronze' to match, but I haven't seen any other info on the dark grey, light grey, or the off-white (cream maybe?) color these interiors have.

Early 80 series ashtray acc mount.

View attachment 3473065

"Subwoofer" acc mount.

View attachment 3473064View attachment 3473063

I'm also designing an overhead console that deletes the sunroof controls, houses a 12 gang control panel, a cb and has swivel map lights. I'll post that when the design is further along.

The subwoofer mount in a dark grey or black with a couple of carling style switch blanks in it would be sweet IF you can lose the lined texture

Edit: looks like there'd be room for a row of switches below a couple of charging ports

 

[Ethel]

APRIL 8, 2020 ** No longer need to add ".pdf" to the extension of STL files. The extension .stl is now allowed.** you can thank @rover67 for that little fix.

I first got the idea from my BH3D double cup holder and figured I would see what else the I might need. I then found @suprarx7nut do some cool things with keyfob cases, then I found some stuff by @Outsane that got me thinking.

First I am really not good at CAD so my design isn’t very nicely finished and I do not care if anyone duplicates/modifies/sells/criticizes it, just don’t ask me to print them for you. I have an ender 3 printer and it can be had for 150 USD fairly often with the pro version often around 200 on sale, so plead with a friend or vender (knowing they won’t vouch for my design quality) if you want what I post.

So Here is how I am going to post what I design and welcome others to post what they design. If you print for a business etc, then just post what is available and how people can buy it (this is about filling gaps and adding options). For sharing STL/3MF or other design files etc, it would be good to stick with items that are NLA/Expensive or new designs. In other words, your own creativity

1. Name of the item (include a picture)
2. Who/what should get credit for the idea. (link to thread if possible)
3. Color filament (brand etc) used
4. Attach the design file pre-slicing.

So a while back I got caught up on reading a thread from Overland Tailer and got an idea or two. Did the same thing on mine but got the wrong size kydex and it just didn’t look good with my crafting skills and the wrong thickness. Builds - BoltRipper's 2-year Overdue Build Thread

So here it is:
1.USB plate to replace 2nd Row Door Ashtrays
2. @Overland Tailor gets credit for this idea Builds - BoltRipper's 2-year Overdue Build Thread
3. 1.75mm PLA Brown (Inland)
4. Remove the .pdf extension.


Sneak peak at my next design is attached also (hint it isn't the air freshener).

View attachment 2169691

View attachment 2169692

View attachment 2169693

View attachment 2169703

APRIL 8, 2020 ** No longer need to add ".pdf" to the extension of STL files. The extension .stl is now allowed.** you can thank @rover67 for that little fix.

I first got the idea from my BH3D double cup holder and figured I would see what else the I might need. I then found @suprarx7nut do some cool things with keyfob cases, then I found some stuff by @Outsane that got me thinking.

First I am really not good at CAD so my design isn’t very nicely finished and I do not care if anyone duplicates/modifies/sells/criticizes it, just don’t ask me to print them for you. I have an ender 3 printer and it can be had for 150 USD fairly often with the pro version often around 200 on sale, so plead with a friend or vender (knowing they won’t vouch for my design quality) if you want what I post.

So Here is how I am going to post what I design and welcome others to post what they design. If you print for a business etc, then just post what is available and how people can buy it (this is about filling gaps and adding options). For sharing STL/3MF or other design files etc, it would be good to stick with items that are NLA/Expensive or new designs. In other words, your own creativity

1. Name of the item (include a picture)
2. Who/what should get credit for the idea. (link to thread if possible)
3. Color filament (brand etc) used
4. Attach the design file pre-slicing.

So a while back I got caught up on reading a thread from Overland Tailer and got an idea or two. Did the same thing on mine but got the wrong size kydex and it just didn’t look good with my crafting skills and the wrong thickness. Builds - BoltRipper's 2-year Overdue Build Thread

So here it is:
1.USB plate to replace 2nd Row Door Ashtrays
2. @Overland Tailor gets credit for this idea Builds - BoltRipper's 2-year Overdue Build Thread
3. 1.75mm PLA Brown (Inland)
4. Remove the .pdf extension.


Sneak peak at my next design is attached also (hint it isn't the air freshener).

View attachment 2169691

View attachment 2169692

View attachment 2169693

View attachment 2169703

If you send these guys a cad file they can laser cut your design with metal.

SendCutSend: Custom Sheet Metal Fabrication

Online sheet metal fabrication service. Get custom parts delivered in just a few days—upload STEP or DXF files for instant pricing!

sendcutsend.com

 

[clx16]

Hey all. Here's some stuff I designed (3ds Max. I'm a game developer/artist/tech artist). I'm curious what filament colors/brands people are using? I saw that the Oak interior can be painted 'bronze' to match, but I haven't seen any other info on the dark grey, light grey, or the off-white (cream maybe?) color these interiors have.

Early 80 series ashtray acc mount.

View attachment 3473065

"Subwoofer" acc mount.

View attachment 3473064View attachment 3473063

I'm also designing an overhead console that deletes the sunroof controls, houses a 12 gang control panel, a cb and has swivel map lights. I'll post that when the design is further along.

FOUND IT!: spray can plastic paint to match Tan Oak Interior

Yes. I bought a dark brown lower console. I didn't know they even existed. I then bought the right one but it was in terrible shape. I wasn't keen on locating and shelling out more $$ for this console project so I just repainted it to match the tan oak color

forum.ih8mud.com

People have discussed the other colors in the thread above

 

[xetura]

The subwoofer mount in a dark grey or black with a couple of carling style switch blanks in it would be sweet IF you can lose the lined texture

Edit: looks like there'd be room for a row of switches below a couple of charging ports

I can print them upside down to be a textured finish, but then all of the usb mounts and the outer most rim (where it mounts to the trim) would need supports printed, which adds a ton of time to the print and means a bunch of manual work afterwards removing the supports and sanding them down. I'll try and find some better solutions, but I can't guarantee anything.

FOUND IT!: spray can plastic paint to match Tan Oak Interior

Yes. I bought a dark brown lower console. I didn't know they even existed. I then bought the right one but it was in terrible shape. I wasn't keen on locating and shelling out more $$ for this console project so I just repainted it to match the tan oak color

forum.ih8mud.com

People have discussed the other colors in the thread above

Good info, thanks for the link. I'd prefer not to paint my parts as much as possible and just try to find a closer filament match. I see parts in this thread that are printed with a certain color, but nobody has given the info.

 

[xetura]

Edit: looks like there'd be room for a row of switches below a couple of charging ports

I can add ports pretty easily to the design, just depends on what people need/want.

 

[Box Rocket]

Hey all. Here's some stuff I designed (3ds Max. I'm a game developer/artist/tech artist). I'm curious what filament colors/brands people are using? I saw that the Oak interior can be painted 'bronze' to match, but I haven't seen any other info on the dark grey, light grey, or the off-white (cream maybe?) color these interiors have.

Early 80 series ashtray acc mount.

View attachment 3473065

"Subwoofer" acc mount.

View attachment 3473064View attachment 3473063

I'm also designing an overhead console that deletes the sunroof controls, houses a 12 gang control panel, a cb and has swivel map lights. I'll post that when the design is further along.

Where are you working? I'm also a Game Developer/Artist. I'm a Lead Artist and head of the Environment Department at Avalanche (WB Games). Maybe you've heard of our latest release, Hogwarts Legacy? We're always on the search for artist, and particularly tech artists. If you have any interest in a change shoot me a DM and we can chat.

 

[xetura]

Where are you working? I'm also a Game Developer/Artist. I'm a Lead Artist and head of the Environment Department at Avalanche (WB Games). Maybe you've heard of our latest release, Hogwarts Legacy? We're always on the search for artist, and particularly tech artists. If you have any interest in a change shoot me a DM and we can chat.

I work from home here in Gladstone for a local company (Liquid Development). I'm a lead VFX artist. I'm doing pretty well atm, but thanks for the offer.

 

[Box Rocket]

I work from home here in Gladstone for a local company (Liquid Development). I'm a lead VFX artist. I'm doing pretty well atm, but thanks for the offer.

That's great. Reach out if anything changes.

 

[xetura]

Latest iteration. The grey filament I got isn't quite dark enough, unfortunately. It looks almost perfect on the spool, but it lightens up after printing.

But, I'm making progress on smoothing out the surface. Still perfecting it, but it already looks much better.

 

[alia176]

There are clear materials, we can give it a try.

I second the need for those clear headlight bubble level windows! Mine are yellowing and soon will be cracking and I lost one already, somehow.

 

[GeoRoss]

I keep meaning to try this stuff.

XTC-3D™, High Performance 3D Print Coating - https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/

 

[clx16]

I keep meaning to try this stuff.

XTC-3D™, High Performance 3D Print Coating - https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/

Hmm Almost sounds like it is some sort of epoxy. If that is the case, It might end up adding strength as well.

 

[Marvelicious]

I really need to get my printer back up and running...

 

[bhicks]

I keep meaning to try this stuff.

XTC-3D™, High Performance 3D Print Coating - https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-

It's a waste of money. Been there, done that. Use ABS for all interior car parts. It's what all of the OEM parts are made from. Use a can of acetone and brush it onto the part like lacquer. 3 passes with about 10-15 seconds between each pass. It will smooth out the part and give a great glossy smooth finish. A $20 gallon of acetone should last you a long time. That is what we do on all of our parts. It also melts all layers together and makes a significantly stronger part.

 

[Marvelicious]

It's a waste of money. Been there, done that. Use ABS for all interior car parts. It's what all of the OEM parts of made from. Use a can of acetone and brush it onto the part like lacquer. 3 passes with about 10-15 seconds between each pass. It will smooth out the part and give a great glossy smooth finish. A $20 gallon of acetone should last you a long time. That is what we do on all of our parts. It also melts all layers together and makes a significantly stronger part.

I was playing around with ASA filament back when I was printing. Seemed a lot like an improved ABS. Still smells like a tire fire, but it prints a little better (less shrinkage) and is a bit more UV and chemically stable.

 

[bhicks]

I was playing around with ASA filament back when I was printing. Seemed a lot like an improved ABS. Still smells like a tire fire, but it prints a little better (less shrinkage) and is a bit more UV and chemically stable.

ASA is good and we have used on numerous occasions with great results but the draw backs are it's much harder to sand and chemically smooth. Also difficult to get reasonable pricing in bulk and we go through over 700 rolls of ABS a month. Bulk pricing in ABS is widely available and that is key to keeping our pricing down even though we hand sand and chemically smooth every single part. It alll comes down to cost effectiveness in large scale printing where a guy in his garage running a single machine can focus on whatever filament looks best for their single part.

 

[GeoRoss]

It's a waste of money. Been there, done that. Use ABS for all interior car parts. It's what all of the OEM parts are made from. Use a can of acetone and brush it onto the part like lacquer. 3 passes with about 10-15 seconds between each pass. It will smooth out the part and give a great glossy smooth finish. A $20 gallon of acetone should last you a long time. That is what we do on all of our parts. It also melts all layers together and makes a significantly stronger part.

Thanks for the info. What could you use for PLA and PETG? At work we can print with PLA and PETG but not ABS unless we do that in a fume hood.

 

[bhicks]

Thanks for the info. What could you use for PLA and PETG? At work we can print with PLA and PETG but not ABS unless we do that in a fume hood.

MEK will smooth PLA like ABS BUT that is some seriously toxic stuff. The MEK solvent is WAY more dangerous than just printing in ABS. If your employer is against ABS then they are definitely going to be against using MEK. The MEK substitute they sell at Lowes/Home Depot is almost as dangerous. You need proper gloves, ventilation, dual filter solvent mask, etc. etc. Spray on lacquer is one option for PLA. Done that a few times with good results. Took about 6 coats to get the fully smooth finish.

 

[GeoRoss]

MEK will smooth PLA like ABS BUT that is some seriously toxic stuff. The MEK solvent is WAY more dangerous than just printing in ABS. If your employer is against ABS then they are definitely going to be against using MEK. The MEK substitute they sell at Lowes/Home Depot is almost as dangerous. You need proper gloves, ventilation, dual filter solvent mask, etc. etc. Spray on lacquer is one option for PLA. Done that a few times with good results. Took about 6 coats to get the fully smooth finish.

MEK wouldn't be an issue as we can use it in a fume hood. I'll try the lacquer on PLA first at home. The problem with ABS is we would have to move the printer(s) to fume hoods and that is not really possible except for one-of prints. This is mostly for me as these are mostly used by engineering students doing their class projects. Printing marks aren't really a problem for things like projectiles, gear driven grippers, etc. PLA works fine for most of that, but we are going to create some civil e projects that have a failure analysis part of the project.