2H Diesel into 1975 FJ40 (Build Thread)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Threads
48
Messages
224
Location
Pasadena, CA
Greetings Everyone!

This is my first time doing a build thread of any sort, so any pointers would be great. (I will also be happy to include additional details if I neglect any.)

Anyways, we have had the intention of converting my 1975 Landcruiser from gasoline to diesel. We were waiting for a 1HD-T, 2H or 12HT. We would prefer the 2H or 12HT because it's easier on the conversion time but the 1HD-T has smoother run and is smoother running. However, any form of Toyota diesel in America would have been a pain anyways because parts are hard to come by. Well, a man up in Washington (Lawerence, good guy) had a business partner import two or three diesel Landcruisers, one was an HJ60 with the 2H and H55F. It was running and in good shape, picked it up for around $3,400 (including freight). Here is what we got when we received it:

15810.webp

15799.webp

15809.webp

15803.webp



Overall condition: Not bad for what we got it for

Had a diesel tech come out (And with our FSM on hand) and performed a leak down and compression test, all checked out, and it was overall good. Precups seemed fine as well! Yay for us.

Tasks Needed for Engine & Tranny:
- Output flanges were for HJ60 not FJ40
- Vacuum shift and actuator
- Gaskets needed to be replaced (mostly goop on some of the gaskets)
- Fan blade (Lawerence is a good man, but no sense, strapped my fan to secure the engine)
- New Paint
- Clear cooling system
- Check clutch assembly
- Rebuild Transmission & Transfercase

I have done quite a lot before beginning this thread, so there will be a small series to get you guys up to speed with my project!
 
So, it took a couple of months, but I have gotten the engine cleaned and removed of most grease and sanded various surfaces. I've gone through, cleaned, painted and flushed what I could. It's a 'soft' rebuild since the previous tests came out extremely positive. I replaced gaskets that would be replaced, things like exhaust manifold, intake manifold, thermostat housing. But since the gasket kit came from Australia, I bought a full gasket rebuild kit.

Anyways, prep took forever, but I got painting finished. I used VHT High Temp Engine paint. So far it adheres great after curing (at room temperature), and doesn't scuff off easily from the bangs you get when assembling or disassembling. Here are some before and afters.

DSC_0036.webp

photo_1465864881254.webp

DSC_1749.webp

photo_1470968468632.webp

photo_1470974114423.webp

I'll post more pictures once all back together later today!

Next session is the transmission/transfercase and work on the engine bay.
 
Waiting for engine paint to cure to full hardness, I decided to work on the transmission and transfercase that came with the engine. Draining and cleaning were in order. I also used the FSM to check clearances and play while it was mostly apart. Some pictures of the teardown. I'll have pictures of the thing back together. I found that due to Lawerence's inability to store things properly, he let water into the transmission and transfercase.

photo_1473653925713.webp


I took the transmission and transfercase apart to find an oil milkshake in it. Mmmmm, look at how pretty it looks...... I found that no gears were fully coated in rust on the side due to the oil coating on the gears. Anyways, new seals and gaskets are in order!

photo_1473658276223.webp
photo_1473702833806.webp
 
While waiting for gaskets and seals to arrive and having cleaned up the transfercases, I decided to work on the engine bay (since the engine was out and all that) Here are some before and after pictures of the frame and various items in the engine bay (I am painting sound and heat insulator onto the firewall currently)

In confusion, we took off the rivets for the engine frame mounts, but that's okay, gave us more space to clean and paint the frame with a rust barrier paint (So far looks great)

photo_1473102345999.webp

45538.webp

45477.webp

45534.webp

1475288394598.webp
 
While I had the mounts and everything fixed up, it looks all nice and just could not just size up and make sure placement was good.

Future note! If ANYONE is doing a 2H engine conversion into a FJ40 KEEP YOUR FRAME MOUNTS. But make sure your dog-leg brackets on the 2H engine are from an HJ4# NOT an HJ60. And you need BOTH sides to be from an HJ4#.

The last two pictures give a comparison of the HJ60 brackets and HJ47 brackets. (HJ60 on left side, HJ4# on the right side)

_20160906_204310.webp

DSC_1902.webp

DSC_1903.webp
 
The 2H was available in North America, well Canada anyway. I put a 2H in my 40 but ended up building my engine brackets as the HJ60 ones didn't fit. However it has been mentioned that they should have fit if I knew to move them to the forward position but it looks like you have it figure out once and for all. I have the auto trans though and it requires a cross member and frame stretch. All in good fun. Nice work on yours so far.
 
Last edited:
Mine was 24V, yours is hopefully 12V. Also I notice you have the original prime pump. If it is faulty or leaking it is a straight swap to a Bosch unit, just have to search.
 
The last two pictures give a comparison of the HJ60 brackets and HJ47 brackets. (HJ60 on left side, HJ4# on the right side)

Excellent photos showing the comparison.. thanks for taking the time to post these.
 
The 2H was available in North America, well Canada anyway. I put a 2H in my 40 but ended up building my engine brackets as the HJ60 ones didn't fit. However it has been mentioned that they should have fit if I knew to move them to the forward position but it looks like you have it figure out once and for all. I have the auto trans though and it requires a cross member and frame stretch. All in good fun. Nice work on yours so far.

Not looking forward to any form of a frame stretch, going ti squeeze this puppy in as best that I can. Hopefully she'll fit.

Mine was 24V, yours is hopefully 12V. Also I notice you have the original prime pump. If it is faulty or leaking it is a straight swap to a Bosch unit, just have to search.

Mine is a 12V and I even had to rebuild the EDIC controller in mine (soldered a whole new unit and fit it into the original case). What is the Bosch unit? Can I pester for a part number?
 
Not looking forward to any form of a frame stretch, going ti squeeze this puppy in as best that I can. Hopefully she'll fit.

Mine is a 12V and I even had to rebuild the EDIC controller in mine (soldered a whole new unit and fit it into the original case). What is the Bosch unit? Can I pester for a part number?

See post #23
Bosch primer pump
 
Today's update, fire wall. You need a big a$$ compressor for painting in general, oh well, it at least gives me a third worth of coating before needing to recharge (old compressor needs a servicing I think, can't keep up with how much air is being let out).

The pictures below are of the firewall before, then scuffed and sanded (rust spots were treated with ospho over the weekend) and the primer on top. Last photo is of the sound deadener on the primer (4mil thick layer).

DSC_1925.webp

DSC_1930.webp

DSC_1931.webp

DSC_1933.webp
 
looking good! my previous 45 had a 2H in her. great motor, very torquey. didnt have the H55 behind it and always felt it needed that 5th gear, so im sure you will enjoy it. one thing i did have in mine was the diffs out of a HJ60, think they were 4.11 (some one corret me pls if wrong, which i probably am ;) ) and they helped the 2H handle on tar driving really well. would def recommend getting them if you have a 2H in your 40. just my 0.02.

looking great and keep it coming :)
 
I will look into getting that 4.11 gear ratio....AFTER I'm done with this. On my list after the engine is in and running is to upgrade my suspension. I bought a lightly used Man-A-Fre shackle reversal kit with four new leaf springs from @74bruiser, it's in great condition, he only used them for a year and then decided to do a SOA kit, but I'm keeping mine SUA (I like to run 31 BFGoodrich).

But THOSE come with an installation manual, the engine and conversion does not. But I hope my write-up will help others with guidance.
 
[QUOTE
Future note! If ANYONE is doing a 2H engine conversion into a FJ40 KEEP YOUR FRAME MOUNTS. But make sure your dog-leg brackets on the 2H engine are from an HJ4# NOT an HJ60. And you need BOTH sides to be from an HJ4#.

The last two pictures give a comparison of the HJ60 brackets and HJ47 brackets. (HJ60 on left side, HJ4# on the right side)

View attachment 1332032
View attachment 1332033
View attachment 1332034[/QUOTE]

To add to the confusion. First pic shows a 2h 40 series mount with power steering. The second pic shows a left hand mount without the alternator provision built in but it also fits the 40 frame. The part number crosses to a 8/80-9/84 hj60 !? Any chance you can get the part number off of your left hand mount? It should be engraved on the upper surface where it mounts to the block.
1476151553766.webp
1476151584267.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom