295/70/18 is a tire size that you should consider* (6 Viewers)

[tbisaacs]

Hey Man!

Thanks for this post as I needed the confidence to run with this tire size. Mine is a 2015 LX with aftermarket 18” wheels and 25mm offset so I’m getting a warm n fuzzy due to it being the same as you're running.

A couple of questions, if you wouldn’t mind answering. Did you try that tire size at stock ‘N’ height without sensor adjustment? If so any issues there?

The other question is more of tire experience. I had STT Pros on my Tacoma and F250 and loved them. What were the reasons you didn’t like them on your LX? Due to my experience loving them, that’s the tire I’m going after.

Currently running KO2 285/60R18

Thanks!

Happy to help!

Sensor mod will make zero difference in fitment. So not necessary. Any rubbing will be fender liner and mud flap and probably running board if you are still running them.

I really like mud and dirt performance on the STT pro but snow was scary and road noise got intolerable after a few thousand miles. They were also pretty lumpy riding and never really tracked straight.

 

[radman]

Did you try that tire size at stock ‘N’ height without sensor adjustment? If so any issues there?

to expand on what @tbisaacs said, with our IFS lift doesnt matter. You need to make sure your tires clear in all heights, even Lo. check your UCA as that's the only spot that will dictate you needing wheel spacers or not. everything else is just plastics and can be moved or reshaped.

 

[WickedCrawler]

Happy to help!

Sensor mod will make zero difference in fitment. So not necessary. Any rubbing will be fender liner and mud flap and probably running board if you are still running them.

I really like mud and dirt performance on the STT pro but snow was scary and road noise got intolerable after a few thousand miles. They were also pretty lumpy riding and never really tracked straight.

Thanks man. Other than wheels, I’m all stock and not opposed to removing the mud flaps and trimming/molding the running boards for fitment.

All of my off-roading is in FL so its probably why the STT has always shined for me as just sand and mud out here. Also, I know it’s crazy but I love the howl of mud terrains lol

Seems you have a decent amount of experience over-landing so this is a good opportunity to pick your brain on what his been your favorite tire so far and why.

 

[WickedCrawler]

to expand on what @tbisaacs said, with our IFS lift doesnt matter. You need to make sure your tires clear in all heights, even Lo. check your UCA as that's the only spot that will dictate you needing wheel spacers or not. everything else is just plastics and can be moved or reshaped.

Thank you. Yeah, I’m basing everything on having the same offset (25mm) as tbissacs so I’m thinking my experience should be pretty similar to his in running this tire size. Fingers crossed anyway!

 

[TimCFJ40]

Currently, I'm hitting the bracket where the mudflaps used to be. That corner where the bottom of the fender meets the end of the sliders. I definitely need to cut off some plastic and the bracket here. Maybe push the liner back with a heat gun.


Next, I'm also hitting the sway bar right where that curve is, you can see how the tire has left the marks. So my caster is at 2.5 right now and I can either push the wheel back a bit more and then would have to do a BMC. Or do a KDSS relocation bracket and not worry about hitting the body mount. What do you guys think?

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There are only a few solutions to the sway bar rubbing.
1) Sacrifice alignment/CVs by moving the wheel back away from the sway bar - Be careful, if you move the control arms enough to clear the bar, you'll possibly need a body mount chop at the rear of the wheel well. Also, this increases CV angle, and some have reported breaking CVs with too much CV angle.
2) KDSS relocation kit - about $100 from Slee plus install. This is probably the path of least resistance, but it does put the links at a worse angle on the bushings, potentially leading to premature sway bar bushing wear, but many have gone this path.
3) Tundra Front End Swap - Probably the best solution, but a good bit of time and money...

 

[tbisaacs]

There are only a few solutions to the sway bar rubbing.
1) Sacrifice alignment/CVs by moving the wheel back away from the sway bar - Be careful, if you move the control arms enough to clear the bar, you'll possibly need a body mount chop at the rear of the wheel well. Also, this increases CV angle, and some have reported breaking CVs with too much CV angle.
2) KDSS relocation kit - about $100 from Slee plus install. This is probably the path of least resistance, but it does put the links at a worse angle on the bushings, potentially leading to premature sway bar bushing wear, but many have gone this path.
3) Tundra Front End Swap - Probably the best solution, but a good bit of time and money...

Or do nothing. Mine rubs only in the most extreme of scenarios. It's a smooth surface and wont damage anything. Also I'm lazy

 

[TimCFJ40]

Or do nothing. Mine rubs only in the most extreme of scenarios. It's a smooth surface and wont damage anything. Also I'm lazy

Right, but don't you have an LX without the KDSS? Caveman Cruiser was mentioning KDSS issues. At a minimum he looks like he'll lose some turning radius on one side...

 

[jeguth1s]

There are only a few solutions to the sway bar rubbing.
1) Sacrifice alignment/CVs by moving the wheel back away from the sway bar - Be careful, if you move the control arms enough to clear the bar, you'll possibly need a body mount chop at the rear of the wheel well. Also, this increases CV angle, and some have reported breaking CVs with too much CV angle.
2) KDSS relocation kit - about $100 from Slee plus install. This is probably the path of least resistance, but it does put the links at a worse angle on the bushings, potentially leading to premature sway bar bushing wear, but many have gone this path.
3) Tundra Front End Swap - Probably the best solution, but a good bit of time and money...

i wonder if anyone has tried the Michelin defenders at 295/70. they'd run a little smaller than the K02's so maybe they'd clear with a lift and wheel offset?

 

[tbisaacs]

i wonder if anyone has tried the Michelin defenders at 295/70. they'd run a little smaller than the K02's so maybe they'd clear with a lift and wheel offset?

The lift doesn’t matter the wheel moves up and down just the same.

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

I ended up going with the third option AKA do nothing!
In the back of the front wheels I have the rocker panel corner cut and pushed back the pinch weld and the liner. So no rubbing in the back at all and managed to keep my body mount intact. In the front I only rub against the KDSS arm at full lock and I have learned to just not go that far. Yes I could do a KDSS relocation and maybe I will at some point but there are well documented drawbacks to that route. If someday I find a nice set of end links that work with that angle, I will do it in a heart beat.

I even took it on the dunes this weekend and didn't hit anything!
Overall very happy with the tire and wheel size.

 

[Sverige]

Perfect size.

 

[Jae Yu]

Yes, 1.25” spidertrax

Hello, are you running 1.25" spacers front and back?

 

[Jae Yu]

You'll need a wheel spacer, 1" should be enough. I used a 1.25" and it also worked.

Is it ok to install spacers just in the front? or is it recommended to do both front / rear the same size spacer? Thanks

 

[tbisaacs]

Is it ok to install spacers just in the front? or is it recommended to do both front / rear the same size spacer? Thanks

same size

 

[jjtrou2072]

This has probably been covered earlier in this thread, but I couldn't find it.

What is a similar size to this for a 17" wheel. I have a set of RW's I'm about to throw on my LX. I apologize for what I'm sure is a stupid question.
I'm a recovering jeep guy....

 

[tbisaacs]

This has probably been covered earlier in this thread, but I couldn't find it.

What is a similar size to this for a 17" wheel. I have a set of RW's I'm about to throw on my LX. I apologize for what I'm sure is a stupid question.
I'm a recovering jeep guy....

There isn’t an exact equivalent in 17”

 

[jjtrou2072]

That's what I figured, thanks for the feedback.

I like the look of the 295-70-18's in this thread, I already have a set of 285/70/17 KO3's and didn't want to spend the money on 285/75/17's. Seems to be such a slight increase in size.

 

[grinchy]

the gap in true diameter and width between 295/70r18 and a BFG KOx 35x12.5r17 probably isn't that large.

 

[clrussell]

Yesterday I was looking at tire sizes. Found the 295/70-18 as I’m thinning Going to factory 18s of some sort and stepping down from 35-12.5.

Then log in and find this thread. So definitely watching.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Tires and 18’s ordered up. Just hoping I won’t have to play the BMC-chopping game, but looking forward to putting a little meat on the bones. Appreciate the link to the Full Fat thread.