2001 Blown head Gasket

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by RotorHead04, Jan 24, 2017.

  1. RotorHead04

    RotorHead04

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    I just bought a 2001 LC with 201k miles that has a blown head gasket. I have replaced a few head gaskets before on various makes and models of cars so I was not too scared of buying something that needed some serious work. That and the vast knowledge of members and good threads on this site helped in the decision. Either way I have the truck at home and have begun tearing into it.

    I have not done much searching yet, but does anyone have (or know of) a good write up on replacing head gaskets? I figure I should probably buy a FSM before I start putting things back together for all the torque specs and other important details. Along those lines does the FSM have all the parts and p/n's listed, or is there a separate Parts Catalog for these trucks? Paper copies vs digital? Where to buy?

    Parts, replace with OEM or are there other good options out there? Are these head bolts reusable, or are they stretch bolts? This truck is a side project to fix and sell again, but I don't want to put junk on it and send it down the road. It needs some love, but will be solid after engine repairs, and a deep cleaning.

    I'll try and documents repairs as I go with lots of pictures.

    Any and all help or input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

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  2. planomateo

    planomateo

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    I thought about pulling the trigger on that one, good luck! It was just up the road from me.
     
  3. RotorHead04

    RotorHead04

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    I saw it and though I can fix that, then decided not to. It never sold every time I looked on CL and then the temptation got the best of me. Another big reason I went with it is because I have a complete parts truck with a running engine. I figured if this one is toast I have an engine I can swap into it and be done.
     
  4. 2001LC

    2001LC

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    I looked into replacing head gaskets on a 98 ~300k. After reviewing cost of all it needed (interior, body, drive train, engine and time) against resale value, I decided to just keep as parts rig, but someone stop-by (unsolicited) and bought.

    The number one reason these gasket go bad is from overheating. Check your hoses from radiator & especially heater tee's are they swollen or what's been replaced. Second reason is improper coolant system service. Look for clues in radiator color and deposit.

    I did some research and found the head bolts are stretch to torque. They may or may not be reusable, the FSM gives specs for this. The heads need to go to machine shop for cleaning and resurfacing $85 w/testing $$130 ea, full rebuild $725 total for both. A compression test in advance would have given better picture of what needs to be done.

    You may need:
    lower ...... upper end cost.
    $170.00... $170.00 T-belt W/

    $45.00.... $95.00 T-belt job crank w/ cam seals

    $285.00... $725 Heads Machine w/tax

    $120.00... $165.00 Head Gasket head, kit

    $00.00...... $40.00 Head Bolts avg

    $00.00..... $100.00 Exhaust studs & Misc.

    $00.00...... $50.00 Hoses & tee's
     
  5. labcab

    labcab

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    Engine swap might be easier. Certainly cheaper as you already have one. Assuming you know it's good.
     
  6. 2001LC

    2001LC

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    I'd be very interested in your valve gap, if you happen to check it. I've seen only one person here in mud "say" he checked.
     
  7. Sandroad

    Sandroad SILVER Star

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    I've had good luck with this site for detailed part numbers.

    Section Component

    Check the forum FAQs for a FSM. I think there is still one there to download?
     
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  8. camino70

    camino70

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    I thought I posted somewhere, but I can't find it. I checked, 1, 3, 5 & 7. Only 1 intake was out of spec, over 200k. I am attributing my noise. I'll need to find my post or notes to get numbers.

    Sean said his 1, 3, 5 & 7 were all in spec too.
     
  9. 2001LC

    2001LC

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    I did see Sean's IIRC. I find it very interesting you found "one out of spec". I'd be very interested in a sound bit of your engine "noise" if gap not yet been corrected, also compression test results or any performance issues like MPG, rough idle, loss of power, "D" vibration, etc.... CAT or o2 CEL or coil failure.
     
  10. sean2202

    sean2202

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    Seems like a project like that may not be the best for repairing for a resale as parts alone and machineing of heads can run into the $1500 range. Are you sure the head baskets are bad? Out of curiosity did you do a cylinder compression test? If I was doing a head gasket I would also replace the radiator.

    @2001LC when I pull my other valve cover off to fix the leaking cover I will check those gaps at that time and let you know. ( 2 4 6 8). I have been avoiding pulling the cover because of the fiasco with broken valve cover bolts on the previous side.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2017
  11. 2001LC

    2001LC

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    I'd like to see that data, thanks.

    As much as I like data, I've found re-torqueing the cover bolts will normally stop the leaks two out of three times. The torque is only 53in. lbf (~4.45lb-lbf) so I use my "little baby" 1/4" torque wrench.

    $1,500 is high side, doing a really good job with full T-belt job. One can just replace the gasket (not recommended).
     
  12. RotorHead04

    RotorHead04

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    Thought I would post a little update. I have been tinkering away at this project over the last few days during my spare time. On the banana scale this is proving to be at least 10 bananas, or all the ones you happen to have.

    I have managed to get the heads off and it looks like cylinder #4 is where the leak was. The plug looked different than all the rest and the piston head looks like its been steam cleaned.

    I did attempt a compression test before pulling the heads. The tester I rented from the parts store had a flexible line from the gauge to the threaded fitting. I could not get the fitting in the spark plug port tight enough to make a good seal because the line would just rotate in the fitting thwarting all my efforts to torque it down past 6 in-lbs. Im sure its a great tester, just not for this application.

    After looking at the best way to tackle the heads I decided to remove them with the exhaust manifolds still attached. It was a little snug getting them out like that but still WAY easier than trying to pull them off while still in the truck.

    The biggest snag I have run into so far were breaking loose the bolt on the harmonic balancer and the cam timing gears. I had to get very creative with the timing gears, and built a tool to hold the balancer while using the biggest breaker bar I have. I know you can cheat and use the starter, but all the electrical was already unhooked.

    Somehow at some point in its life the main electrical connector on the alternator got very hot and partially melted. While trying to unplug the alternator two of the wires pulled out and the connector broke onto many little pieces. Not sure how to track down the P/N to the connector housing but I have few days to worry about it. I'll post pics of it later.

    The previous owner said the timing belt and water pump had just been replaced. The water pump looks like new, but the timing belt doesn't. I was going to put a new one on regardless so I guess it doesn't matter.

    Now the fun stuff. Cleaning up the heads, block, removing and surfacing the exhaust manifolds, having the heads checked, cleaning the upper and lower intake and all other parts in preparation for reassembly. Also need to track down a FSM for torque specs on all components.

    The wife is not thrilled there is a 4th LC in the driveway so Im trying to make decent time on this project. As long as Im making good progress she is happy.

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  13. abuck99

    abuck99 SILVER Star

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    Nice work - we don't often see documented 2UZFE torn down to this level here.

    Did you notice any oil build up in the manifold?
     
  14. tacoduck

    tacoduck

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    you gonna do the starter while your there?
     
  15. RotorHead04

    RotorHead04

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    Starter??? Thats the million dollar question. I realize its right there and now would be the time to do it, BUT it was starting fine for me and its a project to fix and flip. The more I can keep my costs down the better. I think I am going to leave it because it was working fine so I would rather not mess with it. However the longer I look at it sitting there the more of a chance I might mess with it. Guess I had better get thing put back together ASAP before I spend money on a starter.
     
  16. tacoduck

    tacoduck

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    I would prob pay more if I knew it had a new starter...
     
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  17. RotorHead04

    RotorHead04

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    :clap: Are you making an offer? If so I can certainly throw in a new starter for you.
     
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  18. 2001LC

    2001LC

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    Sounds like a good idea to pull head with exhaust manifold on, NICE.
    Interesting, #4 is where I've seen head gasket leaks on overheated 2UZ-FE's.
    Call your Toyota Dealer on electrical connectors. I've found they have any I've needed.

    A few notes for futures jobs:
    Get yourself the FSM it is a must before you assemble. PM me your email I see what I can do for you.
    A chain wrench make short easy work of any crank bolt.

    Rebuilding the start is about $35, make sure you have FSM for this. A few more dollars if electric connector breaks. It add valve to list this as completed on resale ad.
     
  19. RotorHead04

    RotorHead04

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    I need some thoughts and opinions on gaskets for the rebuild. I have been searching high and low for gasket kits and have come across a wide variety in pricing. I can go with OEM for the rebuild but its going to run upwards of $200-300 hundred dollars for a gasket kit, local parts stores are about the same, and I found a kit on Amazon for much cheaper than all the rest at $115. The only real gaskets that have me concerned for quality are the head and exhaust manifold. They look decent, as does the whole kit, but wonder how and why there is a huge price difference. Anyone have experience with Amazon gaskets aside from valve covers, thermostat, intake....? I imagine most of these gaskets come out of the same factory overseas to begin with. I am looking to keep costs down on this project but don't want to put it back together with junk parts. I realize you can get a bad gasket in any kit but if there is a much higher probability of the Amazon one not being decent quality please let me know.

    Thanks!

    Amazon.com: Toyota Tundra 4.7L V8 285CID 2UZFE Full Gasket Set: Automotive
     
  20. 2001LC

    2001LC

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    I can't give a specific vender, but, with parts like gaskets it is always best going with OEM only. That said OEM aren't just sold at dealers and some venders here in mud have great prices. Just do your home and make sure you get what you except, return any bootleg claiming to be OEM.

    The link you provided said "meets or exceed" so that is a no go in my book. It must say OEM or be from same manufactures as OEM, which is same thing.
     
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