^^^^^ exactly what they said. A wealth of information has been gained from those two guys.
Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together
- Thread starter Vae Victus
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- #162
Sorry, dumb question ahead, but what's the diff in a header vs exhaust manifold? I see my header, so exhaust manifold just goes directly to a collector for the exhaust pipe?
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- #163
Costs To Date, Near Future Spending
Update for costs to date:
3/15/2013 FJ40 - $4,000.00
3/25/2013 Truck Delivery - $526.00
3/27/2013 TrollHole Carb - $290.00
3/27/2013 iH8Mud Support - $20.00
3/28/2013 Starter - Used - $65.00
3/28/2013 AutoZone - New Fluids - $132.00
3/29/2013 eBay - Throttle Linkage - $169.15
3/30/2013 OTC 6296 Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller - $22.75
3/30/2013 Titan Quatro 4L SUV Cover (EMP832) - $175.00
3/30/2013 Dash pad replacement from FJGoober - $298.28
3/31/2013 DaveWork JISHardware.com CAD bolt kit - $312.00
4/3/2012 Battery, fluid pump - $159.00
4/4/2013 Carb Spacer MUD rkymtnflyfisher - $45.00
4/5/2013 2 Rear seats - 2thDoc/David - $300.00
4/5/2013 Air Cleaner - RkyMtnFlyFisher/Ryan - $60.00
-----------------------
TOTAL TO DATE: $6574 - And it still isn't running.
Things to make it run safely:
$100 - Master Cylinder
$60 - Clutch Master Cylinder
$300 - Brake Booster Replacement (not messing around)
$25 - Fusible Link
$50 - Brake soft lines
$400 - Radiator Replacement & Hoses
$100 - Fuel soft lines and filter
$150 - Transfer case, eBrake work (guess)
---------
$1085.
I've mixed "must have" and nice to have stuff in the "spent" column. I'm deciding as I go whether or not I'm going to be a near stock rebuild, or a comfortable, great looking, fun, and safe rebuild - without being a purist.
Update for costs to date:
3/15/2013 FJ40 - $4,000.00
3/25/2013 Truck Delivery - $526.00
3/27/2013 TrollHole Carb - $290.00
3/27/2013 iH8Mud Support - $20.00
3/28/2013 Starter - Used - $65.00
3/28/2013 AutoZone - New Fluids - $132.00
3/29/2013 eBay - Throttle Linkage - $169.15
3/30/2013 OTC 6296 Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller - $22.75
3/30/2013 Titan Quatro 4L SUV Cover (EMP832) - $175.00
3/30/2013 Dash pad replacement from FJGoober - $298.28
3/31/2013 DaveWork JISHardware.com CAD bolt kit - $312.00
4/3/2012 Battery, fluid pump - $159.00
4/4/2013 Carb Spacer MUD rkymtnflyfisher - $45.00
4/5/2013 2 Rear seats - 2thDoc/David - $300.00
4/5/2013 Air Cleaner - RkyMtnFlyFisher/Ryan - $60.00
-----------------------
TOTAL TO DATE: $6574 - And it still isn't running.
Things to make it run safely:
$100 - Master Cylinder
$60 - Clutch Master Cylinder
$300 - Brake Booster Replacement (not messing around)
$25 - Fusible Link
$50 - Brake soft lines
$400 - Radiator Replacement & Hoses
$100 - Fuel soft lines and filter
$150 - Transfer case, eBrake work (guess)
---------
$1085.
I've mixed "must have" and nice to have stuff in the "spent" column. I'm deciding as I go whether or not I'm going to be a near stock rebuild, or a comfortable, great looking, fun, and safe rebuild - without being a purist.
Fast Eddy said:
In order to lock all four wheels with the transfer case brake you have to have the rig in 4wd with the hubs locked. I put to you that you will have the same result with an axle brake in 4wd with the hubs locked and without the risk that your differential will let the the two wheels spin independently if one is on ice.
I'll grant that it makes rear disks easier to install, but consider that it makes installing a 5 speed more involved.
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A good addition to your list would be a few service manuals. The Toyota manuals are best. "Chassis & body" and "engine" Toyota factory service manuals. It is nice to have the Haynes manual sometimes but I have heard that the torque specs need to be double checked.
A word of advice:
Focus on the thing that will get you road worthy. Brakes, air/fuel/spark, starter, fluids. After that you will have a good foundation and you will know where you want it to be. If you do that you will get to cruise around a bit before you get too deep into it.
Nice to have a set of JIS fasteners handy when you break a bolt. I'm a little jealous to be quite honest. Wish I had thought of that.....
Keep at it. You will find order in the chaos soon enough.
A header is a replacement/upgrade from the stock cast iron exhaust manifold . Since you already have a header it's either replace it with a better header or source a good used cast iron manifold which can be tough . That said , many prefer the cast iron manifold since it was made to seal as a unit with the intake and they can be bolted together (search around for some oem engine bay pics) and milled perfectly flat to stop leaks at the cylinder head . From there it's just a simple downpipe and routing the stock exhaust . Headers require a fair amount of custom work that if you aren't equipped/skilled results in a trip to an exhaust shop .
As to the JIS fasteners mentioned above - that stands for Japanese Industrial Standard , which refers to those pesky Philips-looking screws - which are NOT philips heads . There are specific drivers for those screws and they are tough to find - if plan to do much work to a rusty or old rig check out a company called JDV tools - they carry Japanese made Vessel Tools as they have hand drivers as well as a hammer impact tool that will break nearly anything loose easily . That tool alone will help prevent a lot of profanity .
Factory service manuals are a must - look in the classifieds section at the top - there is a thread in there with download links to free pdf copies of nearly all the manuals ever produced .
Good luck ,
Sarge
As to the JIS fasteners mentioned above - that stands for Japanese Industrial Standard , which refers to those pesky Philips-looking screws - which are NOT philips heads . There are specific drivers for those screws and they are tough to find - if plan to do much work to a rusty or old rig check out a company called JDV tools - they carry Japanese made Vessel Tools as they have hand drivers as well as a hammer impact tool that will break nearly anything loose easily . That tool alone will help prevent a lot of profanity .
Factory service manuals are a must - look in the classifieds section at the top - there is a thread in there with download links to free pdf copies of nearly all the manuals ever produced .
Good luck ,
Sarge
Aahhhh, yes Grasshopper, you now see the dilemma....hey but, your still below the trucks worth. Further, keep in mind how much cheaper this hobby is, compared to..lets say..Oh, I don't know..lets say solo strip mining?
Or submarines. You can't even rent a good submarine at that price.
JIS also applies to the hex head screws. They have a different head size and standard thread pitch than other metric fasteners, among other things...
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40
- Thread starter
- #170
Thanks Sarge. I may have a bead on a used manifold! Question - why was it replaced in the first place? Cracked, warped perhaps? Not for improved performance....
JIS - was not aware of the non-Phillips, but I bought a pair of rear seats and saw those screws yesterday. I thought "Hmmm, those will be interesting to unscrew."
FSM - been looking at those & hoping to find a 76 set for down load. $159 for a manual seems like Toyota pricing again.
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- Thread starter
- #171
Allowing them to fit into narrower spaces....
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- #172
I know a guy who own an old jet. Can't remember if it's Russian or US but I cannot imagine the upkeep on something like that. Puts new meaning into making sure you have fuel, spark, etc. on a 40 YO airframe.
And I've never seen it overhead, as opposed to the P52 that I see all the time doing barrel rolls over my house!
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- #173
Went on the NAPA website last night. Was able to fill my cart with many engine components that need replacing, reserve them to be picked up. Pretty easy to use, though several of the 15 or so items were at the local warehouse and would need a day to get to the store.
Gaskets, master and clutch cylinder, fuel filter, water pump, fuel pump, radiator, hoses, valve and cylinder stuff, even a rebuilt 2f for $3800 (yikes) all were available. Didn't see a brake booster, which is a bit worrying, but I've not researched that much yet.
The items I purchased totaled up to less than $250, surprising. We shall see what works and what is junk, but I'm hopeful.
Gaskets, master and clutch cylinder, fuel filter, water pump, fuel pump, radiator, hoses, valve and cylinder stuff, even a rebuilt 2f for $3800 (yikes) all were available. Didn't see a brake booster, which is a bit worrying, but I've not researched that much yet.
The items I purchased totaled up to less than $250, surprising. We shall see what works and what is junk, but I'm hopeful.
Fsm thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/610994-40-50-60-80-series-fsm-hell-price.html
from trollhole. what a guy!
- Thread starter
- #176
Ah TrollHole. He is affecting my day in many ways.
Just unboxed this:
Oh, and got the truck to start again!
Had to order master brake and master and slave clutch from Advanced Auto today. No one has it in town.
Now for carb replacement.... Hmm, gotta find the gasket.
Just unboxed this:
Oh, and got the truck to start again!
Had to order master brake and master and slave clutch from Advanced Auto today. No one has it in town.
Now for carb replacement.... Hmm, gotta find the gasket.
- Thread starter
- #177
Any photos of mechanical throttle linkage install? All I have is this:
Also how it attaches to TH carb? Gotta take off the linkage for the throttle cable from the TH carb (it was sent setup for throttle cable).
Also how it attaches to TH carb? Gotta take off the linkage for the throttle cable from the TH carb (it was sent setup for throttle cable).
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The thingy on the bottom bolts to the firewall. The rod goes through the bushing. You can use a mini truck or FJ60 booster in place of your OE booster, works great
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40
Oh and yes folks go to the header often for a performance increase, though it can be debatable...
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40
Oh and yes folks go to the header often for a performance increase, though it can be debatable...
- Thread starter
- #179
Ok - back to the transmission. Pulled the plate off, here are photos of ebrake, trxfr case, drive shaft, from and rear differential.
Transfer case and ebrake
Ebrake fitting
Close up of tcase
Pinched ebrake cable sheath w gear oil
Rear shaft
And ujoint/rear differential
Front ujoint and differential
Hard line fitting to front differential, grommet is like tar
Engine oil coming from top of oil pan too
And behind starter (viewing underneath)
Front ujoint
Front differential
Diagnoses?
Transfer case and ebrake
Ebrake fitting
Close up of tcase
Pinched ebrake cable sheath w gear oil
Rear shaft
And ujoint/rear differential
Front ujoint and differential
Hard line fitting to front differential, grommet is like tar
Engine oil coming from top of oil pan too
And behind starter (viewing underneath)
Front ujoint
Front differential
Diagnoses?
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Don't keep track, there is really no point! I budget $100/mo for Cruiser parts and probably will forever.
Had it for 8 years now and my resto is long since passed. Still have a million things I would like to do someday!
CAZ