Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together (5 Viewers)

[Vae Victus]

40 YO trucks will spit a bit of fluids at various seals and gaskets and isn't worrisome, disassembling drivetrain components can cause more grief as it looks like there's lots of corrosion and mud holding things together, which means..frozen bolts, bad seals..ect..can of worms.

The other item that's mandatory for me is CLEAN, I start big jobs by cleaning off the oil and dirt from each project prior to start. I have a big Karcher kerosene heated pressure washer, I douse everything with Simply Green or Amazing, scrub and gently wash, then I can get a clear picture of the problems compared to the later ons..shes getting there, and your doing it right...

But (knew that was coming) try to stay away from the "box" auto parts stores, advance,pep boys ect..there parts are crap,and the savings will be deleted down the road, when they fail..

I looked at prices for new "hot water" pressure washers. $1500 is low end. Wow. Will be using a cold pressure washer on it - been looking for a use of that gallon jug of simple green for years!

Big box stores - well, I'm certainly learning that lesson.

VV

 

[Titan]

Yea, I know, there not cheap, i'm a General Contractor who also does Heavy Marine work so due to the equipment I have its justified, but I bet considering your resturants,you have your hoods cleaned? call them up see what it'll cost to have them blast it, or better yet,rent one. some tools are one time use..those can be rented as well.NAPA has a good selection.theres another product I use to clean my heavy equipment called B52 this stuff is brutal, its commercial grade degreaser, it'll get off the big globs of grease, but its caustic,so be careful.

 

[Vae Victus]

Yea, I know, there not cheap, i'm a General Contractor who also does Heavy Marine work so due to the equipment I have its justified, but I bet considering your resturants,you have your hoods cleaned? call them up see what it'll cost to have them blast it, or better yet,rent one. some tools are one time use..those can be rented as well.NAPA has a good selection.theres another product I use to clean my heavy equipment called B52 this stuff is brutal, its commercial grade degreaser, it'll get off the big globs of grease, but its caustic,so be careful.

Good thought Titan - the hood cleaning guys would be a source to get my hands on a heated cleaner. We have some stuff called Pyrotek - about as dangerous (and good) as it sounds. I hadn't thought to use that until you posted.

Tool use- I do appreciate the auto stores tool loan programs. Free use of specialty tools is pretty cool.

 

[Vae Victus]

Received this yesterday:



JIS Bolt and nut kit from mudder DaveWork JISHardware.com.

Also got the Air Cleaner and the Carb Spacer from RkyMtnFlyFisher. Great condition. Thanks for the great price.

 

[shipmag]

Im trying to decide if I want to go to Stainless bolts and nuts and washers or try out this kit. Seems the zinc is going to corrode like normal bolts do over time. Don't know about the cad bolts. I would like to hear the pros and cons being that is was mentioned on this thread. Cost not sure which is cheaper I am guessing the stainless would be more expensive in the long run. DOes this kit include any of the engine bolts or are they all body bolts? Sorry for stealing your thread.

 

[Vae Victus]

Im trying to decide if I want to go to Stainless bolts and nuts and washers or try out this kit. Seems the zinc is going to corrode like normal bolts do over time. Don't know about the cad bolts. I would like to hear the pros and cons being that is was mentioned on this thread. Cost not sure which is cheaper I am guessing the stainless would be more expensive in the long run. DOes this kit include any of the engine bolts or are they all body bolts? Sorry for stealing your thread.

These are the CAD bolts. The kit has bolts, washers, and nuts in it. It is for body, & engine bay, but not the head cover bolts. There are a few places where I may do stainless bolts as well, but you can't do them everywhere. Plus, I think the cost for stainless set of this size is much more. Also, you can't use stainless on structural elements, as it is softer than the steel ones.

This is the kind of defacto thread on the bolt choices. Several guys started off trying to build a list of all the bolts, CoolerMan took over and began selling the kits. After you read this, you will likely just buy the kit like I did, and then get some blingy stainless for the really visible and wet stuff.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/76927-nuts-bolts.html

VV

 

[Vae Victus]

Progress. Removed seats, gas tank cover, fuel collector cover. Man, that's a lot of baffles for such a small tank. When I saw the fuel lines for the first time, I said WTH?



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Inside floor in the front floorboard and trxmission hump is in need of repair or replacing. Seat are not structurally sound where they connect to the floor due to rust. Have to fix that.



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Power washed the underside. Took about 2 hours to do it well, and still only got about 90%. Taped all the bolt holes that were open to the inside. Kinda useless cause I need to wash the inside too.

Also, drained the diffs. Was able to remove the very stubborn drain and fill plugs with a combo of a 24mm 1/2" socket with the bevel ground off, a hammer drill, a couple of whacks with a hammer, and some of this new penetrant from BG that I tried after reading some reviews on it called in-Force. Hard to find, but after initial failure with a dry bolt, and an unmodified socket, it did the job very quickly on all 4 diff bolts. Actually the drains used a breaker bar as the hammer drill wouldn't fit under (not on jack stands).




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Bevel removed on the one to the right. Unmodified socket on the left for comparison. I just ground off about 1/16" to 1/8" on the end of the socket. Very easy.

Good news - rear diff oil was clear. Bad - front diff was battleship gray and very metallic.

About to buy brake line coil, flaring tool, cutter, bender, Eastwood bending pliers and brake nuts to redo brake and fuel lines as I go along. AGS NiCopp on amazon, 25' for $39. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_au...&node=15684181


QUESTION - All internal piping in cooling circuit is pretty rusty. Anything I should do before putting on new radiator to clean out rest (like putting some CLR in the block and circulating it w/out the new radiator)?

Ok, enough bothering you guys for now. Any and all input is appreciated.

 

[Vae Victus]

Weekly Cost Update

Still piling up the new parts in the garage. Waiting on a few key pieces:

- Brake booster. Gotta figure out my plan here. 76-80 boosters not repairable any more. Now must determine the best replacement. MiniTruck, 4Runner, Celica(?), old rebuild that was done before the kits evaporated (or someone has figured out a new kit).

- Transfer Case - fix all the leaking crap. Not quite sure the path to that one yet. I guess buy the kit from someone like SOR?

- Gas Pedal - on its way

- Water Pump - On its way

Here is the weekly update to what I've spent. I feel like I'm on a path to about $20K.

Date Cost Total Item
3/15/2013 $4,000.00 $4,000.00 FJ40
3/25/2013 $526.00 $4,526.00 Truck Delivery
3/27/2013 $290.00 $4,816.00 TrollHole Carb
3/27/2013 $20.00 $4,836.00 iH8Mud Support
3/28/2013 $65.00 $4,901.00 Starter - Used
3/28/2013 $132.00 $5,033.00 AutoZone - New Fluids
3/29/2013 $169.15 $5,202.15 eBay - Throttle Linkage
3/30/2013 $22.75 $5,224.90 OTC 6296 Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller
3/30/2013 $175.00 $5,399.90 Titan Quatro 4L SUV Cover (EMP832)
3/30/2013 $298.28 $5,698.18 Dash pad replacement from FJGoober
3/31/2013 $312.00 $6,010.18 DaveWork JISHardware.com CAD bolt kit
4/3/2012 $159.00 $6,169.18 Battery, fluid pump
4/4/2013 $45.00 $6,214.18 Carb Spacer MUD rkymtnflyfisher
4/5/2013 $300.00 $6,514.18 2 Rear seats - 2thDoc/David
4/5/2013 $60.00 $6,574.18 Air Cleaner - RkyMtnFlyFisher/Ryan
4/6/2013 $203.17 $6,777.35 Advanced Auto - Clutch master, Clutch Slave, Brake Master
4/6/2013 $131.56 $6,908.91 NAPA - hoses, Air Filter, Fusable link, thermostat, fuel filter, belt
4/8/2013 $658.86 $7,567.77 CoolCruisers, Radiator, hoses, 2 front blinkers, 2 headlight globes, 2 door handles, steering rag joint
4/8/2013 $10.00 $7,577.77 Metric - screw set for 2 rear seats
4/7/2013 $103.93 $7,681.70 JDV Impact Screw Drivers - Megadora Impacta and Impact Driver Set 2400
4/10/2013 $228.70 $7,910.40 SOR order for various parts for eBrake, Throttle Pedal, Battery tray, carb gaskets, drain plug nuts and gaskets
4/15/2013 $113.00 $8,023.40 Matco Flare Tool
4/15/2013 $52.00 $8,075.40 Brake line and tools Amazon
4/13/2013 $32.00 $8,107.40 AeroKroil x2
4/10/2013 $22.00 $8,129.40 BG In-Force lubricant
4/16/2013 $62.00 $8,191.40 CruiserCorps - Radiator busing, accelerator bushing, cooling/heater union pipe
4/13/2013 $35.00 $8,226.40 Accelerator Pedal - Mark Woytovich, mudder
4/17/2013 $192.00 $8,418.40 Powder coat fan shroud, skid plate, mesh grille, radiator housing
4/17/2013 $57.00 $8,475.40 Door bushings cruiserbits
4/18/2013 $68.00 $8,543.40 Exhaust Manifold, flange & ship - HuminaJumina mudder
4/18/2013 $5.00 $8,548.40 Shipping for some free bushings from FishTaco mudder.
4/18/2013 $43.00 $8,591.40 FedHill.com brake fittings
4/18/2013 $145.00 $8,736.40 Water pump, CDan

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I'm not sure what my brake booster is out of - at one point I think I had figured out it was a 90's 4 runner. Its slightly wider than the stock 40 booster, so it covers one of the bolts on the clutch MC. makes it a real pain to get the clutch MC out...But it and the stock 40 MC lock my drums right up on command.

Kurt @ cruiser outfitters sells all the transfer case seals you need, probably cheaper than SOR. I used all the rubber ring-seals from him, but ended up sealing the case with something like FIPG/permatex instead of the paper gaskets. Seems to be holding up.

 

[subzali]

FJ60 or mini truck booster

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40

 

[Vae Victus]

FJ60 or mini truck booster

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40

Are you in an area where mini trucks are common? I guess I'm not.

 

[Vae Victus]

I'm not sure what my brake booster is out of - at one point I think I had figured out it was a 90's 4 runner. Its slightly wider than the stock 40 booster, so it covers one of the bolts on the clutch MC. makes it a real pain to get the clutch MC out...But it and the stock 40 MC lock my drums right up on command.

Kurt @ cruiser outfitters sells all the transfer case seals you need, probably cheaper than SOR. I used all the rubber ring-seals from him, but ended up sealing the case with something like FIPG/permatex instead of the paper gaskets. Seems to be holding up.

Why did you use FIPG and not the paper? Cost? Longevity?

 

[Vae Victus]

Had my first intact with CruiserDan, Toyota parts dealer. Not sure if I caught him on a bad day, but found him to be less friendly and helpful than I expected. It was Friday late so perhaps he was crispy, but I was hoping for more direction on the weather stripping and brake booster. He did find me a new water pump for about $136 (discounted for Mud, thank you CDan), but still pricey., where the local Toyota parts guy said "discontinued."

For the weather stripping, he said "Complete kit is about $1900." Long pause. "Er, ah, ok...." I say. I guess he's had the conversation so many times, and so many people say "too expensive" that he just cuts to the chase. I figured he'd give me some suggestions on how to solve the need less expensively. Nope, nothing. Similar discussion around booster. It was like pulling teeth.

It is nice to have an active thread member who helps us find parts that Toyota still has, but I was hoping for a little more definitive solutions where he knows Toyota is not the answer. I guess I expect successful "service industry" folks to be more ... Engaging, friendly, helpful - not sure what word I'm looking for. Oh well, it was a 5 minute conversation so I'm judging too quickly.

Thanks CDan for the discount.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Why did you use FIPG and not the paper? Cost? Longevity?

Nope, the paper gaskets I ordered didn't seem to fit properly. So I just scrapped them and used what I had on hand. All the seals for the transfer case totaled something like $17, cost was definitely not the issue!

 

[subzali]

Are you in an area where mini trucks are common? I guess I'm not.

Generic phrase for Pre-1995 Toyota trucks and 4runners, there are a ton of them in Colorado. We have Jim's got parts on the north side of town

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40

 

[Vae Victus]

Generic phrase for Pre-1995 Toyota trucks and 4runners, there are a ton of them in Colorado. We have Jim's got parts on the north side of town

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40

Aaaahhhh, I couldn't figure out why we were using parts out of these. When I searched "mini truck" this is what I was getting.

 

[Vae Victus]

So, began removing old, bad, stuff (cr@p is a bad word? really?) from the truck again today. Removed the Weber. Massive spacer beneath it.


I assume this goes away when I put the TrollHole carb on.

Check out this gasket

 

[Weber Sarge]

Wow, bet that Weber is junk from being overtorqued with that thick gasket , used to see that a lot around here when I built them . Yes , that spacer goes away , you'll need to find the stock heat insulator/gasket to install the THC .
Sarge

 

[Vae Victus]

Wow, bet that Weber is junk from being overtorqued with that thick gasket , used to see that a lot around here when I built them . Yes , that spacer goes away , you'll need to find the stock heat insulator/gasket to install the THC .
Sarge

Sarge, do you mean overtorqued as in stressed due to the extra air space into the intake manifold, or overtorqued at the bolts where it connected?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Sarge, do you mean overtorqued as in stressed due to the extra air space into the intake manifold, or overtorqued at the bolts where it connected?

A lot of the times folks put thicker gaskets and heat spacers under carbs to keep them from getting too hot, and boiling off fuel.

The problem is you would have to tighten the carb down harder on the thicker gaskets to get a good seal (or so people seemed to believe). Then after a series of heat/cool cycles and vacuum cycles, the overtightened carb would have nowhere to expand or contract, so it would do so unevenly. Ie: the (unbolted) center would flex, while the edges were held in place by the over torqued bolts. This would cause warpage, which in turn would cause bad seals at the various gaskets in the carb. This is very common to see in the air horn section of quadrajets. Not sure where it is observed on the webers.