For weather stripping and window seals it is worth spending the extra money for Toyota. Ccot will not fit well and you'll never be happy. I bought all factory weather strip and window rubber 7 years ago and it still looks and fits like new.
Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together
- Thread starter Vae Victus
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
- Thread starter
- #103
1st Real work on the truck
Got the trusty shop vac out yesterday, and, even though it was raining all day, started the work to get the 1/4" of mud and grime out of the bottom of the floorboard. First real work on the 40! I couldn't stand it any more and went after it. Got my rain coat on, put the vacuum in the rear of the truck, and got to it.
First I cut out the old but not original rubber, uni-mat floor mat (Toyota branded - thought about keeping it, but it was nasty, so, nah). Then, started vacuuming and scraping.
Interesting that on the passenger side, the "high quality" black spray tan that the PPO (prior, prior owner) put inside the vehicle just vacuumed right up.
Didn't look much better when I was done, but I was able to assess the floor board and see how much real rust. There is some, but we are pretty structurally sound, so back to worrying about getting it to start, stop, and drive.
Got the trusty shop vac out yesterday, and, even though it was raining all day, started the work to get the 1/4" of mud and grime out of the bottom of the floorboard. First real work on the 40! I couldn't stand it any more and went after it. Got my rain coat on, put the vacuum in the rear of the truck, and got to it.
First I cut out the old but not original rubber, uni-mat floor mat (Toyota branded - thought about keeping it, but it was nasty, so, nah). Then, started vacuuming and scraping.
Interesting that on the passenger side, the "high quality" black spray tan that the PPO (prior, prior owner) put inside the vehicle just vacuumed right up.
Didn't look much better when I was done, but I was able to assess the floor board and see how much real rust. There is some, but we are pretty structurally sound, so back to worrying about getting it to start, stop, and drive.
- Thread starter
- #104
Chamba,
Well, thanks for that. Is there a forum member that I should go thru? All the rubber is really bad.
VV
Cruiser Dan at American Toyota in Albuquerque. He knows his stuff and gives mud discounts.
X2!!!
I have heard good things about SORs weatherstripping kit. Search for it and see what kind of reviews pop up. I need to upgrade all my rubber too.
Phares said:
I've never used their weatherstrip, but their seat foam and upholstery is top notch.
- Thread starter
- #109
Great - I sent him a request for help on what to buy, and for a quote.
I will - always willing to research alternatives.
Good to know Chamba.
- Thread starter
- #110
+ $298.28 - Dash pad replacement from FJGoober (which i won't need for months probably).
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$5698.18 - 5 Days in.
Happy Easter all.
I just joined you in the Newbie FJ40 ranks! Glad to have some company! Nice ride!
Medic406 said:
Welcome. You should start a thread too-we can never have too many Cruisers to look at.
- Thread starter
- #113
Before you go crazy getting OEM stuff read a bunch of build threads from front to back. For example, if you want just a DD then function over over OEM parts is more important and won't break your bank account. You mentioned I believe a leak issue with the hard top. Go to Menards and in the garage door section get a 10 ft roll of 3 inch wide garage door rubber trim (seals from door to pavement) I think it's $9.00 and pretty easy to install between the fiberglass hardtop and metal hardtop. I've used this on three fj40 builds and it's worked great. How I heard about it was from reading through countless build threads. Good luck in your project. Hoz.
X2
Sounds like you are not trying to have a Barrett-Jackson offering so PBblaster and the ih8tmud happy homemaker solutions are your best friends.
I prefer to rebuild rather than replace wherever I can. It takes more time but you end up with a better understanding of the whole machine. More fun too.
Good luck. Looks like a nice find.
Here's my first build. Search Hoz 78 FJ40 restoration.
- Thread starter
- #117
Nah, not wanting pristine rebuild, but want it to be nice to drive, like a weekend driver.
This is the kind if stuff that one can discover here researching, but tips like these help get you there quickly.
- Thread starter
- #118
I have more questions than I have knowledge at this point:
1. For the master and slave cylinder containers, do I source just the containers, or the entire unit? Go OEM/Aisin or after market?
2. Radiator - are the aluminum 3 core radiators that are being hawked on eBay a good option for the FJ40, or stick with what's there, but get it cleaned out?
3. What size tires should I be running to have it drive on the streets well, but not look like a car? I've had big wheels on a SR5 SWB PU and they were not so road friendly. Looks like anything above 33 is "big" for this vehicle, but how much difference does a couple of inches make? Do 30" tires look small? What's stock on these (I see that back then, narrower was the norm (9.5 inches)?
1. For the master and slave cylinder containers, do I source just the containers, or the entire unit? Go OEM/Aisin or after market?
2. Radiator - are the aluminum 3 core radiators that are being hawked on eBay a good option for the FJ40, or stick with what's there, but get it cleaned out?
3. What size tires should I be running to have it drive on the streets well, but not look like a car? I've had big wheels on a SR5 SWB PU and they were not so road friendly. Looks like anything above 33 is "big" for this vehicle, but how much difference does a couple of inches make? Do 30" tires look small? What's stock on these (I see that back then, narrower was the norm (9.5 inches)?
1. Absolutely source the entire clutch master and slaves, (not the rebuild kits). Definitely go OEM here - from what I've heard the non-OEM cylinders start leaking after 6 months. Also source the replacement soft line. I believe the 1976 had the 10mm connectors, which are way easier to find than the older 9mm connectors from the early 70's and prior.
2. I know nothing about radiators and would probably steer you wrong!
3. In terms of tires, it seems like most folks run 31's or 33's, as skinny as you can find. 33's require a slight lift. I believe 9.5's have been discontinued, but 10.5's are available. The original "stock" size, I believe, was 27 inches on early trucks moving up to 29 or 30 later. Not sure about width. They look pretty wimpy by modern standards and are tough to find.
Regarding performance - 33's give you a nice "rubber overdrive." Lets you run at highway speeds without wringing the engine for all it's worth. Gives you 2 more inches of ground clearance for off road work, so yes, slight advantage as you move up. But many will say they are perfectly happy off road on 31's. I, for one, find my 31's to behave quite will on the road. Haven't messed around off road yet.
2. I know nothing about radiators and would probably steer you wrong!
3. In terms of tires, it seems like most folks run 31's or 33's, as skinny as you can find. 33's require a slight lift. I believe 9.5's have been discontinued, but 10.5's are available. The original "stock" size, I believe, was 27 inches on early trucks moving up to 29 or 30 later. Not sure about width. They look pretty wimpy by modern standards and are tough to find.
Regarding performance - 33's give you a nice "rubber overdrive." Lets you run at highway speeds without wringing the engine for all it's worth. Gives you 2 more inches of ground clearance for off road work, so yes, slight advantage as you move up. But many will say they are perfectly happy off road on 31's. I, for one, find my 31's to behave quite will on the road. Haven't messed around off road yet.
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Bfgoodrich makes a 30 x 9.5 x 15 mud terrain. They look cool but are squirrelly on the road. A 10.5 width is the way to go for smooth/safe driving.
Cruiser Corps makes a nice 4 core aluminum radiator. But your local radiator shop can re-core and dip your current one as well.
X2 in the clutch parts ... Go OEM.
Cruiser Corps makes a nice 4 core aluminum radiator. But your local radiator shop can re-core and dip your current one as well.
X2 in the clutch parts ... Go OEM.