Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I believe AISAN is the same thing as ASCO. I think I read somewhere that the full company name for AISAN is Aisan Sekei Co. (ASCO)... Food for thought - I may be misspelling all of that badly.

I'd love to know the history of all these supplier relationships. Seems unheard of to supply a company for 40 years. But that's why Toyota is Toyota today.
 
Well, I've been trying to find Coolerman, but he's been off the site for 2 mos now. He was the wiring harness guy.

I need to rebuild my harness (out of desire more than need) and I finally found the source for most of the parts.

The raw color coded wire and some connectors:
http://www.riwire.com/
http://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/sup/pages/wire.htm - actual wire page

And the Japanese connectors:
http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Hoping I can do it from scratch. We will see if I can get all new parts or if that's cost prohibitive. If Coolerman will do it for $300-400, surely I can buy the parts for less and learn how to do it myself.

I also sent in an order to Beno (Onur) at Lowe Toyota for 2 synchros for the transmission (no knowledge they were even needed till I got to the point of measuring and when asking about tolerances, some kind folks informed me about replacing the 3 & 4 synchros). Also ordered the hubcaps for all 5 wheels.

Then I can finish the tranny, and put the transfer and tranny back together.
 
Hey man, looking good, I just caught up on your thread from the last time I looked at it!!! That harness doesn't sound too bad to do, yours looks pretty much together so I don't think you'll have too many issues following what you have. Its funny it looks like we were cleaning up transfer cases about the same time... my rear seal never leaked, now that I cleaned it and put it all together with new seals it leaks. I think the shop I paid to chop my driveshaft down didn't balance it. I am going to take it apart again and do the double seal mod to it, and put new parking brake shoes in it this time. I'll follow your Parking Brake Torque posts to get it right!!! Keep up the good work!!!
 
Crap, I didn't do the double seal mod. I hope I don't regret it. Probably will.

Remember that the new brake shoes are sometimes thicker metal, which makes them bind against the drum when brand new. I'm going to have to deal with that at some point. Have not decided how yet.
 
I have this type of hubs - ASCO.

Should I replace with Aisin if I can find some old ones? Going for very close to stock remember.

They are the same company. If you have those, they are probably the long body ones and not interchangeable, also probably even more 'stock'.
 
Factory and aftermarket drums are both available. For reference, CCOT lists Toyota drums at about $98 each. Aftermarket are predictably a bit less expensive.

Heirloom, I think you are correct about wheel drums, but eBrake drum is discontinued I believe.

I need to check my facts again, but I'm pretty sure I've read this.

vv
 
My bad. I interpreted "drum" as wheel drum. If your parking brake drum rubs, verify that the cam-adjuster is positioned for new pads.

Yes, it is adjusted all the way to the loosest setting. I documented that pretty well back in the thread somewhere. The metal backers are just thick enough to make the pads rub (fit very tightly) on the drum.
 
When you remove the drum you will be able to see if the rubbing is uniform or if only one pair of contact grooves needs filing. A burr in a die grinder can make fast work of that and marking it with marking dye or a majic marker with a scribe line can keep you from getting carried away.
 
When you remove the drum you will be able to see if the rubbing is uniform or if only one pair of contact grooves needs filing. A burr in a die grinder can make fast work of that and marking it with marking dye or a majic marker with a scribe line can keep you from getting carried away.

Thanks Craig.
 
Progress: worked on fabbing up an addition to my welding cart for the Miller S-22A MIG Welder. It sits on the Miler XMT 304 CC/CV Welder so I can now TIG, MIG and stick weld anything but Al.

image-963534166.webp

image-1390748373.webp

image-719087255.webp

image-3809026025.webp
.

Waiting on the synchro rings fro the tranny from Beno at Lowe Toyota. He said they shipped Friday from his place (I think. They had to come from Japan).

Purchased a tranny hump, gas tank cover, 2 front fenders, rear heater, and 2 fender aprons from TCSTARK. Thanks Chris for those. Not cheap, but they all look solid.

About two weeks ago I finally finished the drive shaft u-joints. If you remember, I was waiting for Bob at TPI to help me with a u-joint that came without a needle bearing, thus making it useless. The old bearings did not match. I had emailed him 2x, and talked to him on the phone 2x about this, as well as about purchasing a 3.70 3rd member pair from an FJ55 he has, and a bunch of other parts. He literally ignored my requests for help, choosing to not fix the missing needle bearing which he claimed was my fault, in lieu of several hundred dollars of new parts. Ok so I'm done with TPI. Bob, if you are reading this, I'm doing what spurned customers do - communicate to other customers about their experiences.

I ended up robbing my old bearings and putting them in the new cup. They didn't fit exactly: I had to leave one needle bearing out. This will likely mean premature failure of this cup.

Saw this Defender 90 (and another a couple days later) at the Landy dealership. I like the 90s, almost bought one 2-3 years before they stopped importing them. They want $36K for the yellow one.

image-307598331.webp
image-2295277061.webp
image-3139872883.webp
image-963534166.webp
image-1390748373.webp
image-719087255.webp
image-3809026025.webp
image-307598331.webp
image-2295277061.webp
image-3139872883.webp
 
So, in planning on body panel welding repairs, I got some paint strip and tested it on the rear quarter. Wanted to see what's under it in different places.

image-2743189591.webp

Bondo city. Nice clean metal beneath that. The PO just did a crappy paint job. Bondo did not like that paint, it chips off in large chunks.

Wondering if I should strip the paint over the winter, weld spots that need it, and cover up bare metal with a rust preventer. Then I could get the last bit blasted, saving me some cash, and get it ready for primer/paint shortly thereafter once it gets warm.

Or, leave as much paint on as possible, weld as needed, blast and prime it in the spring.
image-2743189591.webp
 
Financial Update:

FJ40 Running Costs

Date, Cost, Running Total, Item
3/15/2013 $4,000.00 $4,000.00 FJ40 from a guy in the GA Mountains
3/25/2013 $526.00 $4,526.00 Truck Delivery
3/27/2013 $290.00 $4,816.00 TrollHole Carb
3/27/2013 $20.00 $4,836.00 iH8Mud Support
3/28/2013 $65.00 $4,901.00 Starter - Used
3/28/2013 $132.00 $5,033.00 AutoZone - New Fluids
3/29/2013 $169.15 $5,202.15 eBay - Throttle Linkage
3/30/2013 $22.75 $5,224.90 OTC 6296 Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller
3/30/2013 $175.00 $5,399.90 Titan Quatro 4L SUV Cover (EMP832)
3/30/2013 $298.28 $5,698.18 Dash pad replacement from iH8Mudder FJGoober
3/31/2013 $312.00 $6,010.18 iH8Mudder DaveWork JISHardware.com CAD bolt kit
4/3/2012 $159.00 $6,169.18 Battery, fluid pump
4/4/2013 $45.00 $6,214.18 Carb Spacer iH8Mudder rkymtnflyfisher
4/5/2013 $300.00 $6,514.18 2 Rear seats - iH8Mudder 2thDoc/David
4/5/2013 $60.00 $6,574.18 Air Cleaner - iH8Mudder RkyMtnFlyFisher/Ryan
4/6/2013 $203.17 $6,777.35 Advanced Auto - Clutch master, Clutch Slave, Brake Master
4/6/2013 $131.56 $6,908.91 NAPA - hoses, Air Filter, Fusable link, thermostat, fuel filter, belt
4/8/2013 $658.86 $7,567.77 CoolCruisers, Radiator, hoses, 2 front blinkers, 2 headlight globes, 2 door handles, steering rag joint
4/8/2013 $10.00 $7,577.77 Metric - screw set for 2 rear seats
4/7/2013 $103.93 $7,681.70 JDV Impact Screw Drivers - Megadora Impacta and Impact Driver Set 2400
4/10/2013 $228.70 $7,910.40 SOR order for various parts for eBrake, Throttle Pedal, Battery tray, carb gaskets, drain plug nuts and gaskets
4/15/2013 $113.00 $8,023.40 Matco Flare Tool
4/15/2013 $52.00 $8,075.40 Brake line and tools Amazon
4/13/2013 $32.00 $8,107.40 AeroKroil x2
4/10/2013 $22.00 $8,129.40 BG In-Force lubricant
4/16/2013 $69.24 $8,198.64 CruiserCorps - Radiator bushing, accelerator busing, cooling/heater union pipe
4/13/2013 $35.00 $8,233.64 Accelerator Pedal - iH8Mudder Mark Woytovich
4/17/2013 $192.00 $8,425.64 Powder coat fan shroud, skid plate, mesh grille, radiator housing
4/17/2013 $57.00 $8,482.64 Door bushings cruiserbits@gmail.com
4/18/2013 $68.00 $8,550.64 Exhaust Manifold, flange & ship - iH8Mudder HuminaJumina
4/18/2013 $5.00 $8,555.64 Shipping for some free bushings from iH8Mudder FishTaco
4/18/2013 $43.00 $8,598.64 FedHill.com brake fittings
4/18/2013 $145.00 $8,743.64 Water pump, iH8Mudder CDan
4/23/2013 $201.00 $8,944.64 TPI LandCruisers for Transfer Case Rebuild kit, 2 pinion seals
4/24/2013 $440.00 $9,384.64 Amazon for jack, jack stands, transmission jack
4/25/2013 $142.00 $9,526.64 Brake Booster #53-280, Advanced Auto
5/4/2013 $582.49 $10,109.13 TPI Landcruisers, clutch kit, transmission kit, etc
5/4/2013 $539.60 $10,648.73 SOR.com, Door panels, emblems, voltage regulator, flasher module, bunch of little crap
5/15/2013 $150.00 $10,798.73 Distributor from iH8Mudder TrollHole
5/17/2013 $154.00 $10,952.73 CruiserCorps, rear main seal, heater valve, grommets, exhaust gasket
5/19/2013 $28.00 $10,980.73 Air intake hose - from iH8Mudder BTUMAN
5/20/2013 $23.00 $11,003.73 Air intake nozzle - from iH8Mudder "76 fj40"
5/21/2013 $232.50 $11,236.23 3 FJ40 Steel Wheels
5/27/2013 $25.00 $11,261.23 Stepped Output Washers from iH8Mudder OrangeFJ55
5/31/2013 $118.63 $11,379.86 Mirror Arms from iH8Muddr Vintij74
6/1/2013 $30.60 $11,410.46 Flaming River FR1005 Shutoff from iH8Mudder jbadoni
6/6/2013 $53.50 $11,463.96 ZoroTools.com for grinder wheels
6/6/2013 $252.00 $11,715.96 Amazon for Metabo WEPBA14-150 grinder
6/26/2013 $167.15 $11,883.11 TPI for Ujoints and 2 Engine Mounts (front)
6/26/2013 $100.00 $11,983.11 2 FJ40 Steel Wheels from iHMudder VtgBeemer
6/12/2013 $0.00 $11,983.11 Fuel Lines free from iH8Mudder TCClark
6/28/2013 $255.00 $12,238.11 LED Tail Lights and 12v relaysfrom iH8Mudder Dancar and Chamba who shipped them from Austrailia.
7/5/2013 $9.00 $12,247.11 Shipping to Chamba for the lights from his house to mine. Thanks for sending it Express for the cost of standard Chamba!
7/15/2013 $246.00 $12,493.11 Used engine hoist $46, new engine stand, balancer, replacement bottle jack for hoist - $200
7/15/2013 $80.00 $12,573.11 Metric Rear Light Guards
9/16/2013 $50.00 $12,623.11 16 tooth speedo driven/drive gear from Mark's Offroad
9/25/2013 $0.00 $12,623.11 Engine Lift Hooks from mudder LandCrusher99 - thanks!!
10/7/2013 $150.00 $12,773.11 3.71 Diff from super40 on Mud.
10/1/2013 $0.00 $12,773.11 Rear Sill (Pending Transfer of $275) from Awl_TEQ
10/20/2013 $72.00 $12,845.11 TCSTARK for Original '76 Manuals
10/24/2013 $140.00 $12,985.11 Lowe Toyota, Beno, 5 hubcaps, 2 transmission synchros
11/1/2013 $500.00 $13,595.11 TCSTARK Fenders, rear heater and lines, tranny hump, gas cover, fender aprons
11/4/2013 $110.00 $13,095.11 77TLCFJ40 for left side tire carrier, panel style.
11/8/2013 $70.00 $13,665.11 TCSTARK alternator bracket - fuel sending unit - gas pedal - eBrake lever - visors, bumperettes

Brrr, it's cold out. :crybaby::crybaby:
 
Getting on track again. Tranny is just sitting and waiting on me.

Got a heater for the cold winter months today. One of those that screws onto the top of a propane tank. Works well. Hard to light.

image-330993888.webp
Heater

Also finally got my Miller S22-A, 220V/50 amp MIG welder all rigged up and did some test welds tonight. Wow, what a difference a few amps and a few volts makes. I was able to lay down both spray transfer welds and good old bacon frying welds. Took me a few welds to learn how to vary the wire speed and the voltage to get the right bead. Can't stack a dime but who needs to when I can lay down clean beads like these - literally as my first beads. (All you pro welders, shut the hell up.)

image-942244101.webp
Test welds varying voltage and wire speed. 10 ga steel, single layer welds.

image-2742904803.webp
Fairly clean, deep, and controllable thickness

image-4144918891.webp
image-864494266.webp
As compared to welds from the 120V Lincoln MIG. Underpowered for this ga steel.


image-1563578356.webp
Welds from Miller on opposite side.

image-3397999775.webp
Spot/tach weld over a large 1/8" gap, close up.

image-1366942476.webp
image-876943371.webp
Thick weld at 9" mark, thin at 10" mark.
image-330993888.webp
image-942244101.webp
image-2742904803.webp
image-4144918891.webp
image-864494266.webp
image-1563578356.webp
image-3397999775.webp
image-1366942476.webp
image-876943371.webp
 
Awesome work VV. My dad is a pro welder and he scoffs at my poor attempt at welding. I remind him that a good grinder can make anyone's welds look like a pro!
Hope you are staying warm up there in Nashvegas. Its cold as a witches teet down here in Chatt.
 
Hey Man,

I'll be down in your neck of the woods next week for work - first time in Nashville - PM me with some locales for food/booze! Not sure how much free time I'll have but I'm hoping I can get "out on the town" at least a couple of nights.

I'm also going to need to buy a welder soon - or make friends with someone up here who has one. I'm still not clear on the advantages/disadvantages to MIG vs. TIG - I understand the difference between the two systems, I just don't understand when one would choose one over the other.

Your welds looks pretty good! Far better than the blobs my PO laid down on seemingly every part of my truck (remember the power steering nightmare, prior to chopping it off). Heck, even my junkyard bench seat is welded to the factory seat mounts.
 
Back
Top Bottom