Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I put a cup wheel on a 4 inch grinder and burned it up after about ten minutes Mikta was the brand. Bought a dewalt 4.5 wonder how long it will last my 6 inch side winder (right angle grinder) is to big and bulky but it has a lot of torque you can tell when you turn it on it turns side ways if your not holding it tight.
 
I put a cup wheel on a 4 inch grinder and burned it up after about ten minutes Mikta was the brand. Bought a dewalt 4.5 wonder how long it will last my 6 inch side winder (right angle grinder) is to big and bulky but it has a lot of torque you can tell when you turn it on it turns side ways if your not holding it tight.

The Dewalt was rated well on amazon, cheap too. This link is for the 3". The 4" is not rated as well but I didn't read the ratings.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4910-8-Inch-11-Knotted-020-Inch/dp/B00004RHAL/?tag=ihco-20

I went ahead and bought the more expensive Weiler from Zoro tools to try it out.
 
Ok, I looked through my kit this morning and I have 2 rubber seals and 1 metal. However, I bought a 3 speed rebuild kit.

Seals are the same in both xfr cases - 3 spd or 4 spd. Bob's kits seem to be using a rubber seal instead of the metal lipped seal.

I'm still concerned about the seal that goes on the Speedo Housing (called the "retainer"). I've always seen a metal lipped seal here. The only other rubber lipped seal in the Xfr case is the output shaft, and it goes in reversed to "hold the oil IN the xfr case."

If that's true, then if you sub in a rubber seal in the place of a metal lipped seal, it seems that you need to also reverse this seal as you are also holding in the oil at the Speedo housing. Actually, you normally double up the seal after you modify the housing - and all the modded seals show 2 metal lipped seals.

I'm still thinking that it needs to be reversed - I'd sure like to know out of curiosity.
 
Those dually brushes last a long time - key is not to put a lot of pressure on them , let the tool do the work . When cleaning performance drops just flip it over , that simple . That 6" Metabo is a butt-kicker , hope you can hang onto it with any decent sized cup brush , it can get downright dangerous .
Sarge
 
Those dually brushes last a long time - key is not to put a lot of pressure on them , let the tool do the work . When cleaning performance drops just flip it over , that simple . That 6" Metabo is a butt-kicker , hope you can hang onto it with any decent sized cup brush , it can get downright dangerous .
Sarge

Well, crap. That's not what I want to hear. Thick gloves.
 
Not to mention , a fairly heavy shirt or jacket since they can and will throw wires . I've got a piece of one in my face now that's been there a few years and won't come out , those suck . A face shield isn't a bad idea , especially one of those open-sided ones that allow some air flow . Keep a really close eye on the grinder's cord , they are suicidal at times too .
This is the price of not blasting , not a completely bad thing but a trade-off anyway .
Sarge
 
Not to mention , a fairly heavy shirt or jacket since they can and will throw wires . I've got a piece of one in my face now that's been there a few years and won't come out , those suck . A face shield isn't a bad idea , especially one of those open-sided ones that allow some air flow . Keep a really close eye on the grinder's cord , they are suicidal at times too .
This is the price of not blasting , not a completely bad thing but a trade-off anyway .
Sarge

Yes, I've been meaning to get a face shield. Glasses have saved me about 10 times already just on little stuff I'm wire wheeling.

I'm still out of town so no progress. In Atlanta thru Wed. Anyone need anything carried to Nashille?
 
There are a new line of shields that are a lot better than previous versions - keeps debris out of your face and allows air circulation . Didn't wear mine today and got another stainless brush wire in the chin - really hate those too .
Welding supply shops are usually the best bet for this stuff and a lot of times their pricing is pretty good .
Sarge
 
Finally got back to the truck today. Spent a week in Grand Cayman with the family, then business travel until Wed night.

While I was out of town the 6" Metabo grinder came in, along with the Dually Stringer 6" knotted brush, a knotted cup (both from Weiler). The grinder is very sweet. It revs up over 2-3 seconds, very smoothly, to about 10K RPMs. It is chunkier than the Dewalt 4", but not by much. It feels like the difference in a 4 stroke motorcycle and a 2-stroke - the 4 is just smooth and powerful.

I took a couple of hours and wire wheeled the Air Nozzle intake horn, and the shroud that goes under the radiator and fan. Used the Dually 6" wheel and the knotted cup. Both cut much faster than the other wheels I have.

Here are some photos.

image-1237196145.webp
Metabo, DeWalt, Task Force (dangerous! No safety switch on trigger)

image-3598813196.webp


image-218786896.webp
Dually knotted brush, Knotted Cup, Knotted Wheel


image-2173647580.webp
Dually close up

image-3479509959.webp
Vs 4" wheel

image-845488516.webp


image-2489843658.webp
Metabo Specs - WEPBA 14-150, Quick
image-1237196145.webp
image-3598813196.webp
image-218786896.webp
image-2173647580.webp
image-3479509959.webp
image-845488516.webp
image-2489843658.webp
 
Last edited:
Very nice gear and great progress on the transfer case!

The metabos are nice - I really like mine. The twisted wire cups are good for the tight corners, but when it comes to a large areas a 60 grit flap disc really cuts through it. I used my front axle as a a test ground and was amazed at how quick the flap disc cut through the rust.
 
Very nice gear and great progress on the transfer case!

The metabos are nice - I really like mine. The twisted wire cups are good for the tight corners, but when it comes to a large areas a 60 grit flap disc really cuts through it. I used my front axle as a a test ground and was amazed at how quick the flap disc cut through the rust.

Do they last very long? Seems like they wear out quickly.
 
Dude, very inspiring! My first 40 is scheduled to be delivered to me on Wednesday and I can't wait to get started. I paid a little more than your initial investment for a "driving condition" cruiser. Not sure what I will get but I'm sure I will need to tackle some of the same projects. Thanks for logging the info!
 
Dude, very inspiring! My first 40 is scheduled to be delivered to me on Wednesday and I can't wait to get started. I paid a little more than your initial investment for a "driving condition" cruiser. Not sure what I will get but I'm sure I will need to tackle some of the same projects. Thanks for logging the info!

TrailRunner - welcome to Mud! Smart move to pay more - I should have paid less, but I didn't know that then. Hopefully you will have few "must do" projects and more "could do". That way you can drive it and wrench on it. I think both are equally fun.

When you get your truck, take lots iPod pics and post them in your thread. Tell us all about it, and ask all the questions. These guys are amazing (gals too).

Hint - down load the app. The one on the iPhone allows you to post more than 3 pictures at a time. Not sure about android. I spend about 75% of the time in the app and 25% in the browser version - each has its strengths. I RELY on the advice here bc I don't know what I'm doing.

Also, consider donating $20 to be a paid member if ih8Mud which gives you much more private message space, ability to turn off ads (which I left on because you do see vendors that you need), and something else I can't remember. Plus it supports the site, which is invaluable.
 
This is a quick update on my build. Been out of town a lot the past 3 weeks and no time to work. But, I have spent money (LOL), so here is an update on total expenses to date.

I'm at the last stages of the rebuild for the transfer case - about to do the e-brake rebuild, and need to set the pre-load on the bearings.

After that, I need to do transmission rebuild. I've been waiting on TPI 4x4 to get me the rebuild kit for over 5 weeks now, and I'm losing patience. It SHOULD be at his shop as of last week, but I've heard that for a couple of weeks. We will see.

Decided to leave the engine interior alone for now. Will crack the valve cover and give it a good look-see but will not rebuild it until it is clear it needs it.

After transmission and transfer, will do clutch and RMS. Then will redo u-joints on drive shafts, front and rear diffs (seals, visual inspection, may change gearing to be more highway friendly), and then knuckles.

Here's the costs to date:
Date Cost Running Total Item
3/15/2013 $4,000.00 $4,000.00 FJ40
3/25/2013 $526.00 $4,526.00 Truck Delivery
3/27/2013 $290.00 $4,816.00 TrollHole Carb
3/27/2013 $20.00 $4,836.00 iH8Mud Support
3/28/2013 $65.00 $4,901.00 Starter - Used
3/28/2013 $132.00 $5,033.00 AutoZone - New Fluids
3/29/2013 $169.15 $5,202.15 eBay - Throttle Linkage
3/30/2013 $22.75 $5,224.90 OTC 6296 Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller
3/30/2013 $175.00 $5,399.90 Titan Quatro 4L SUV Cover (EMP832)
3/30/2013 $298.28 $5,698.18 Dash pad replacement from iH8Mudder FJGoober
3/31/2013 $312.00 $6,010.18 DaveWork JISHardware.com CAD bolt kit
4/3/2012 $159.00 $6,169.18 Battery, fluid pump
4/4/2013 $45.00 $6,214.18 Carb Spacer iH8Mudder rkymtnflyfisher
4/5/2013 $300.00 $6,514.18 2 Rear seats - iH8Mudder 2thDoc/David
4/5/2013 $60.00 $6,574.18 Air Cleaner - iH8Mudder RkyMtnFlyFisher/Ryan
4/6/2013 $203.17 $6,777.35 Advanced Auto - Clutch master, Clutch Slave, Brake Master
4/6/2013 $131.56 $6,908.91 NAPA - hoses, Air Filter, Fusable link, thermostat, fuel filter, belt
4/8/2013 $658.86 $7,567.77 CoolCruisers, Radiator, hoses, 2 front blinkers, 2 headlight globes, 2 door handles, steering rag joint
4/8/2013 $10.00 $7,577.77 Metric - screw set for 2 rear seats
4/7/2013 $103.93 $7,681.70 JDV Impact Screw Drivers - Megadora Impacta and Impact Driver Set 2400
4/10/2013 $228.70 $7,910.40 SOR order for various parts for eBrake, Throttle Pedal, Battery tray, carb gaskets, drain plug nuts and gaskets
4/15/2013 $113.00 $8,023.40 Matco Flare Tool
4/15/2013 $52.00 $8,075.40 Brake line and tools Amazon
4/13/2013 $32.00 $8,107.40 AeroKroil x2
4/10/2013 $22.00 $8,129.40 BG In-Force lubricant
4/16/2013 $69.24 $8,198.64 CruiserCorps - Radiator bushing, accelerator busing, cooling/heater union pipe
4/13/2013 $35.00 $8,233.64 Accelerator Pedal - iH8Mudder Mark Woytovich
4/17/2013 $192.00 $8,425.64 Powder coat fan shroud, skid plate, mesh grille, radiator housing
4/17/2013 $57.00 $8,482.64 Door bushings cruiserbits@gmail.com
4/18/2013 $68.00 $8,550.64 Exhaust Manifold, flange & ship - iH8Mudder HuminaJumina
4/18/2013 $5.00 $8,555.64 Shipping for some free bushings from iH8Mudder FishTaco.
4/18/2013 $43.00 $8,598.64 FedHill.com brake fittings
4/18/2013 $145.00 $8,743.64 Water pump, iH8Mudder CDan
4/23/2013 $201.00 $8,944.64 TPI LandCruisers for Transfer Case Rebuild kit, 2 pinion seals
4/24/2013 $440.00 $9,384.64 Amazon for jack, jack stands, transmission jack
4/25/2013 $142.00 $9,526.64 Brake Booster #53-280, Advanced Auto
5/4/2013 $582.49 $10,109.13 TPI Landcruisers, clutch kit, transmission kit, etc
5/4/2013 $539.60 $10,648.73 SOR.com, Door panels, emblems, voltage regulator, flasher module, bunch of little crap
5/15/2013 $150.00 $10,798.73 Distributor from iH8Mudder TrollHole
5/17/2013 $154.00 $10,952.73 CruiserCorps, rear main seal, heater valve, grommets, exhaust gasket
5/19/2013 $28.00 $10,980.73 Air intake hose - from iH8Mudder BTUMAN
5/20/2013 $23.00 $11,003.73 Air intake nozzle - from iH8Mudder "76 fj40"
5/21/2013 $232.50 $11,236.23 3 FJ40 Steel Wheels
5/27/2013 $25.00 $11,261.23 Stepped Output Washers from iH8Mudder OrangeFJ55
5/31/2013 $118.63 $11,379.86 Mirror Arms from iH8Muddr Vintij74
6/1/2013 $30.60 $11,410.46 Flaming River FR1005 Shutoff from iH8Mudder jbadoni

Planned purchases upcoming - 2 more wheels ($100) and something else that is slipping my mind....
 
Getting back to nitty gritty details on the transfer case. I'm getting ready to set the pre load on the output shaft bearings and to do that, I needed two things. One, I needed a smaller torque wrench. My Snap-On (eBay, used) only goes down to 50 ft/#s. the bolts on the retainer (speedo) housing need 11 ft/#s. Grrrr.

I ordered a Neiko (5-80 ft/#s) from my buddy Amazon, and got it here over night. $28-ish plus $3.99 for overnight, can't beat that. Works just fine.

image-2061684122.webp
Neiko and Snap On.

image-33241890.webp
5-80 vs 50-250 ft/#s

image-2081290128.webp
Tighten to 11 ft/#s

But that means that I had to switch gears last night and move to item #2. I needed to re build the emergency / parking brake, as the backing plate needs to be mounted to the retainer (speedo) housing to set the preload, and it needs serious cleaning. I began that. Searched mud for a long time for some hints and found few. Even CoolerMan's site was silent of that score so just dove in.

image-2157159086.webp
SOR Kit Contents and old parts

Started by removing the springs, undoing the thin v-shaped clips, taking off (destroying) the horseshoe retaining collar clips on the pivot pins, and removing the two shoes. Undid the large nut that holds the main pivot. This is the one that does not need to have the pivot pin pulled so don't do it unless you order a new retainer clip for it.


image-2891534195.webp
Ready for Teardown

Once I had done that I noticed that the SOR rebuild kit only had two pins and two horseshoe clips but I had taken 3 clips and 3 pins out. After conferring with SOR, I come to find that the kit only expects you to remove the two pins in the shoes themselves because the new ones are a bit longer to fit the newer thicker OEM shoes. Well, dang it, now I have to find a new clip to replace the mangled one. Another delay.

image-2891900679.webp
3 Pins or 2, that is the question!

My next challenge is to figure out how to remove the clip holding in the brake cable on the backing plate. It is tiny and hard to get to. Hopefully I'll find the answer here or just hack it off.

image-806220463.webp
Retaining Clip on Brake cable
image-2061684122.webp
image-2157159086.webp
image-2891534195.webp
image-2891900679.webp
image-806220463.webp
image-2081290128.webp
image-33241890.webp
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom