1hdt into 1995 US Landcruiser

[Outsane]

Ok so I ****ed up...

The oil feed port for the turbo on the block was blocked..

I pushed some mig wire through the blockage, then used larger and larger tig wires. It was a few inches back. when I checked for it to be clear earlier I had only checked 2 inches. The blockage was about 4in deep.

There was lots of concern about other ports to the internal mains or other places that might not get oil.

Brian was here helping.

We started the motor a couple if times and git good flow, to flush the port out.

Then swapped in another stock ct26. Then hoped the motor would not die in the next few days.

I do remember clearing oil passages during the build and blowing air in a d spinning the crank to get air at each crank journal.

start up and sounds great still.

Oil pressure rises to 63psi and falls to 20 when warm.

So the thought is that the nut came off because of the no oil when the turbine would stop abruptly and the nut would then spin off.

 

[Outsane]

Shifter plate from @Delta VS. install

Helped make this part if the process real easy. Made a nice template to cut the body. boots mounted nicely to the plate also.

You can mount the oem shifter console or the Delta

 

[mudgudgeon]

A bolt back out on the power steering pump

One of the bolts that holds it in? Or internal?

 

[Outsane]

One of the bolts that holds it in? Or internal?

external, not the ones that hold ig to the motor

 

[Outsane]

I am still worries about egts and how fast they rise. It may just be me and not bring used to a diesel.

Where I live there are lots of hills so they can rise fast up to 1100 and I have to back off, sometimes going only 40mph. So I dint know how I will drive up and over Donner pass.


So I went after the timing, this is before

After

As advanced as it will go.

Next big issue was the Gearing

2800rpm at 70mph in 5th

H150 - 10% underdrive - 4.10 Diffs - 37s

Definitely felt way to high of an rpm, i try to cruise at 80mph. I probably do more like 85 on the way to Vegas. 90 to Montana.


This was the calculation I had, It was a bit off.

 

[Outsane]

I was able to get a overdrive kit next day from @orangefj45 at Valley Hybrids. They are about 1.5 hours away, so ground shipping is next day.

Pulled the transfercase



Only part that baffled me was this hi low collar. There wasn't a big chamfer on it like the picture. There are chamfers on the teeth in each side. Those chambers make all the other gears easy to figure out.

I Georgled (George at valley hybrids/terrain tamer) it and he was kind enough to help me out in Saturday. So I knew the flat side goes up and the dot goes down.

 

[Outsane]

adjusting the @Lutz Auto speedo calibrator then I can get a pic

Cleaning up the the interior too, I added more foam for sound deadening. This is upholstery foam, maybe it helps.

@Delta VS Manual shifter console went on easy. Still need to finish with the front plate.

 

[svsisu]

$8.59/gal! I'd be driving the Yaris instead. Quick work on changing out the Tcase gears. Not apples to apples, but my RPMs are similar to what you had with your 10% underdrive set- I have 4.11 diff, H55, 4:1 tcase gears (so about 10% underdrive), 35" tires and turbo 1Hz. Your EGTs seem to rising very quickly, too quickly, but hard to tell what hills you are pulling up. What changes did you see after advancing the timing? I don't think you should have to advance it all the way- are you using a dial indicator to check timing? Do you have a proper boost gauge?

 

[Outsane]

$8.59/gal! I'd be driving the Yaris instead. Quick work on changing out the Tcase gears. Not apples to apples, but my RPMs are similar to what you had with your 10% underdrive set- I have 4.11 diff, H55, 4:1 tcase gears (so about 10% underdrive), 35" tires and turbo 1Hz. Your EGTs seem to rising very quickly, too quickly, but hard to tell what hills you are pulling up. What changes did you see after advancing the timing? I don't think you should have to advance it all the way- are you using a dial indicator to check timing? Do you have a proper boost gauge?

Egt seems a little better, I may just need to be ok with it..

I di have a turbo gauge, it peaks at 11psi

It was first timed wuth a gauge and dial indicator.

There are pland to get an intercooler, but I feel like I should be able to get it very drivable before that with a stock set up.

 

[samc2447]

Have you adjusted the fuel and star wheel on the pump? Too much fuel will cause EGTs to rise rapidly

How's your smoke at idle and under full load?

 

[Outsane]

@samc2447


I haven't touched anything else, this is a freshly rebuilt pump from diesel fuel injection services. I am new to diesels so I haven't started cowboy tuning yet..

I have a little smoke at take off and parking lot revs. I dont see any at boost, maybe I need ti take a video.

No smoke at idle.

 

[roaminglost]

IDk if this helps, but with my auto in 3rd gear at 50 on 37s, I think I'm at about 700-800F EGT. If I stay in 4th, I'll get my EGTs up to 1100. I've never gone over that since my rebuild on steep hill climbs

 

[mudgudgeon]

so I haven't started cowboy tuning yet..

Umm, setting timing without the correct tools is kinda cowboy.
The timing marks will get you to the ball park, but you may be still out in the parking lot, and not in the stadium.
You really need to set the timing with the correct tools, then tweak from a known position.

I have a little smoke at take off and parking lot revs. I dont see any at boost, maybe I need ti take a video.

No smoke at idle.

No smoke at idle is good.
With it sitting at idle, in neutral, stab the throttle hard for a second or two. You should see a puff of dark smoke (not a huge cloud)This is what gets the turbo to boost up.
When you're driving, when you go from coasting to hard acceleration, you should see a similar puff of dark smoke in the side mirror. Just a puff for a few seconds, not a sustained smoke screen.

To use EGTs as a tuning guide, you need a controlled situation to get a repeatable result.
1st, you need the probe before the turbo. After the turbo is too unpredictable

For me, I used a long moderately step hill a few miles from home as my controlled situation.
I'd hit the bottom of the hill coasting in 3rd at about 40mph, at the start of the hill, stand on the throttle, rev it out to 3600ish, shift to 4th, stand on the throttle and rev it out again to 3600ish (peak horse power).
You're watching for the EGTs to peak. ( Or back off when you get scared of the EGT).
I tuned mine so in this scenario, I would consistently see a peak of 800-850⁰c pre-turbo. (1470-1560⁰F) Occasionally on other step hill climbs, if I was pushing it really hard, I would see 900⁰c (1650⁰F)


1100⁰F is super duper duper driving miss daisy conservative.
It's about 590⁰c.
It's widely considered that 750⁰C is 100% safe for a sustained EGT temp. My personal opinion, 750⁰c is still conservative.

When I say I tuned to 850⁰C peak, as a peak, this is a temp I''d never hit in normal driving.
In spirited driving in the hills, yes, but then, I'd hit it occasionally, but only for seconds at a time. 30-60 seconds if that.
It takes time to heat soak pistons, valves etc, and every breath of fresh intake air, even at full boost is going to be at most 100⁰C a LOT less if you're intercooled, so pistons and valves etc are constantly being cooled, plus oil squirters squirt 100⁰c oil onto the underside of piston crowns constantly.

The way mine was tuned, the only reason to watch EGTs was out of curiosity, or in situations where I knew I was pushing the engine hard. Then I'd watch it to make sure I wasn't holding a sustained EGT over 850⁰C (1560⁰F). This is long mountain pass scenario, or towing a large boat/ horse float/RV trailer up a mountain scenario.

Being a hoon through the hills, you'll rarely hit your peak EGTs for more than seconds at a time

 

[Outsane]

@mudgudgeon. I definitely need to do more tuning and understand the egts.

I did start with the timing dialed in with a dial indicator. That was the before in the two timing shots from above.

I start getting pretty worried when I get into the red. The egt sensor is right at the collector of the exhaust manifold before the turbo.

I am seeing more puffs when its cold.

The diesel is all new to me, and I really dont want to kill the motor after all the work and money. So I am pretty cautious as I dont know what is normal. I have read that 1400f will melt a piston and 1000 is good for passing for a few moments..

Maybe thats all conservative...

I am just driving and asking questions..

 

[Outsane]

IDk if this helps, but with my auto in 3rd gear at 50 on 37s, I think I'm at about 700-800F EGT. If I stay in 4th, I'll get my EGTs up to 1100. I've never gone over that since my rebuild on steep hill climbs

I need that kind of egt stuff

 

[davegonz]

Intercool it. Cheap an easy..especially on an 80. On a 70 series, it's a royal pain in the ass.

 

[Outsane]

Intercool it. Cheap an easy..especially on an 80. On a 70 series, it's a royal pain in the ass.

Shouldn't I be able to drive it stock, feels like thats a bandaiding that will hide an issue.



Intercooler will be coming eventually..

 

[OGBeno]

Shouldn't I be able to drive it stock, feels like thats a bandaiding that will hide an issue.



Intercooler will be coming eventually..

I started posting and then deleted it… but now that it’s been said….

A non-US Toyota turbo diesel mandatorily needs an IC. Stock or not.

The engine was never meant to climb 10K mountain ranges at 80mph (think Eisenhower Pass on 70, or anything east of Seattle on 90 or anything East of SLC on 80, or anything through on RT. 50 in the Eastern Sierra and into NV)… or operate at 8k ft for long periods of time operating in our temperature ranges.

**there is a reason why Toyota never brought these engines to the US and there is a reason why we rebuild 3-4 of them a year.**

Based on what you post in non-MUD world you travel all over the deserts and mountains of the west. An OEM setup is going to let you down immensely…. You are going to hate life.

East of the Mississippi, you’ll be fine. More humid so more moisture and sea level to 4k ft roughly.

IC it now…. While you are still spending money. Do it once correctly or do it twice for double the price.

 

[Outsane]

@OGBeno. Thats some great info, this helps a bunch. Definitely getting an ic in the future

 

[Broski]

I started posting and then deleted it… but now that it’s been said….

A non-US Toyota turbo diesel mandatorily needs an IC. Stock or not.

The engine was never meant to climb 10K mountain ranges at 80mph (think Eisenhower Pass on 70, or anything east of Seattle on 90 or anything East of SLC on 80, or anything through on RT. 50 in the Eastern Sierra and into NV)… or operate at 8k ft for long periods of time operating in our temperature ranges.

**there is a reason why Toyota never brought these engines to the US and there is a reason why we rebuild 3-4 of them a year.**

Based on what you post in non-MUD world you travel all over the deserts and mountains of the west. An OEM setup is going to let you down immensely…. You are going to hate life.

East of the Mississippi, you’ll be fine. More humid so more moisture and sea level to 4k ft roughly.

IC it now…. While you are still spending money. Do it once correctly or do it twice for double the price.

Never really heard it put that way. Makes a lot of sense !!

You hear that there not made for our interstate highways but I assumed that was about the speed.

Great intel