Speed has a lot to do with it too. Engine was never designed for modern American super highways.
1hdt into 1995 US Landcruiser
- Thread starter Outsane
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Speed has a lot to do with it too. Engine was never designed for modern American super highways.
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sounds like you need more boost and an intercooler!
On EGTs, I ran my 1HD-T to 900c on occasion, wouldn't probably reccomend it, but never any signs of engine damage from EGTs.
750C is safe all day, and 850 is likely safe, but I found with fresh injectors, timing towards the advanced side of spec, good intercooler, exhaust etc. and sensible AFRs, sustained EGT over 750C was difficult to achieve.
On EGTs, I ran my 1HD-T to 900c on occasion, wouldn't probably reccomend it, but never any signs of engine damage from EGTs.
750C is safe all day, and 850 is likely safe, but I found with fresh injectors, timing towards the advanced side of spec, good intercooler, exhaust etc. and sensible AFRs, sustained EGT over 750C was difficult to achieve.
@Outsane Lee, if you hesitate to drive up to Dave in ID, we can built it here. It’s a less than $500 expense and maybe a full day. I’ve done 4 of these. 1HDT in a 40, 15BFT in a 60, 1HDFT in a troopy and an 80. It will lower temps by about 200F. The 40 runs the hottest because it’s the smaller heat exchanger but still max at 1100F. Buy a stainless 2.5” mandrel kit on Amazon for $170, a Mishimoto radiator for $300 and some silicone hoses. Weekend project. Im here if you need me. Troopy set up below.
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Never seen somebody be able to time a Toyota diesel by hand or feel or sound.
I even tried it once spending four hours or more trying to tweak the pump. No go!
The factory SST is how you do it. I suggest you set timing again using the SST, you can advance it a little over stock settings if running over stock fuel, boost, ect.
As mentioned by others, intercooler it.
Don’t lug it in low rpms either, also mentioned by others. Big misconception out there, some people think a diesel never needs to go over 2k rpms! That is foolish.
Cheers
I even tried it once spending four hours or more trying to tweak the pump. No go!
The factory SST is how you do it. I suggest you set timing again using the SST, you can advance it a little over stock settings if running over stock fuel, boost, ect.
As mentioned by others, intercooler it.
Don’t lug it in low rpms either, also mentioned by others. Big misconception out there, some people think a diesel never needs to go over 2k rpms! That is foolish.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #185
Timing was originally set using the sst.
- Thread starter
- #186
Now its time for AC
Its just not comfortable driving around without it. Compressor is a denso unit 471-1141.
Its made for r12..
I tried to connect the high side top from a 105 to the 1fzfe lower that connects to the condenser. Thanks to Ofer for loaning me the crimper.
physically it worked out.
but there was a leaking from the connector and the hose was bubbling. So two problems.
I had ordered a kit from Amazon, unfortunately it didnt cime with the bulkhead that attach to the firewall and compressor. So I had to wait for those to come in on Saturday.
So I made a hose from the parts, now that I have the end fittings. The toyota has thinner tubing then the kit.
For the Lowside I removed the extra part that moves the connection down the firewall more inline with the 1fzfe compressor location.
With the line higher its also farther away from exhaust manifold and turbo.
Holds vacuum forcan hour after replacing an oring and Schrader valve, so I added pag oil and replaced the drier.
Then pulled vacuum again and filled with R134a. Watched the gauges until I got to 22lbs on the lowside. AC is cold, it was also 67 outside.
Its just not comfortable driving around without it. Compressor is a denso unit 471-1141.
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I tried to connect the high side top from a 105 to the 1fzfe lower that connects to the condenser. Thanks to Ofer for loaning me the crimper.
physically it worked out.
but there was a leaking from the connector and the hose was bubbling. So two problems.
I had ordered a kit from Amazon, unfortunately it didnt cime with the bulkhead that attach to the firewall and compressor. So I had to wait for those to come in on Saturday.
So I made a hose from the parts, now that I have the end fittings. The toyota has thinner tubing then the kit.
For the Lowside I removed the extra part that moves the connection down the firewall more inline with the 1fzfe compressor location.
With the line higher its also farther away from exhaust manifold and turbo.
Holds vacuum forcan hour after replacing an oring and Schrader valve, so I added pag oil and replaced the drier.
Then pulled vacuum again and filled with R134a. Watched the gauges until I got to 22lbs on the lowside. AC is cold, it was also 67 outside.
Finally. Now intercooler!!!!
Great progress!
Getting there Lee 
In your opinion is there any toyota Diesel that is suited for US highways/ US market?
When I had the FTE in the 100, had stock intercooler etc, with stock street tires it seemed to handle highway driving pretty well, including I70. However, I didnt have an EGT gauge at the time and just gave her the beans.
FTE is a good start towards an engine useable in stock form in the US.
GD series of 4 bangers would be good in SWB/MWB/pick-up trucks.
But really the 1VD-FTV really is the only modern diesel that would work in the US in stock form.
Or the F33A-FTV.
- Thread starter
- #192
Should be here tomorrow
to see if the Original set timing was off when I used Brian's gauge.
to see if the Original set timing was off when I used Brian's gauge.
Not sure how much an 1hdfte data point helps, but I hit the rockies pretty regular, and was in the Sierra's a few months ago. Went over Donner Pass etc.
Stock FTE, PDI front mount IC-cross over deleted, 3inch straight pipe exhaust , h152f, stock transfer case and differential gears. if im climbing a pass I'm always in 4th gear.
The cruiser itself is lighter than most "builds" I think maybe 5550 lbs, 35x11.5's 2.5 inch lift. No armor, no rtt. Maybe a couple hundred pounds of camping gearing the back, which is included in that 5550.
Id say I average 55-65 mph on most passes, and usually try and keep it around 2400-2800 rpm.
This gets my EGT'S to 1100F pretty easily, especially on a long steep grade at elevation, personally I start to let off at 1250F. Which I've only seen once or twice.
Stock FTE, PDI front mount IC-cross over deleted, 3inch straight pipe exhaust , h152f, stock transfer case and differential gears. if im climbing a pass I'm always in 4th gear.
The cruiser itself is lighter than most "builds" I think maybe 5550 lbs, 35x11.5's 2.5 inch lift. No armor, no rtt. Maybe a couple hundred pounds of camping gearing the back, which is included in that 5550.
Id say I average 55-65 mph on most passes, and usually try and keep it around 2400-2800 rpm.
This gets my EGT'S to 1100F pretty easily, especially on a long steep grade at elevation, personally I start to let off at 1250F. Which I've only seen once or twice.
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- Thread starter
- #194
Some great info...
I will have a bunch of things against me for now compared to your set up..
1hdt will have less power and half the valves.
FTE I imagine will have altitude compensation some how
I am closer to 7k lbs
H150 transmission
37s
my Granador exhaust is better then stock, but not 3in all the way...
I will get the intercooler done, maybe turbo some day and lots of tuning..
So I can not worry about egts any more..
I drove a LX450 yesterday around the block to remind myself how much better the 1hdt is..
Once you go diesel, you never go back....
Seems like you have some guys that may be able to help with both of these.
Start there and see how she does.
Good luck!
Truth, an LS may be "cheaper" and faster, but it'll never be able to make the same sounds. LOLOnce you go diesel, you never go back....
$2 a gallon more then gas is charging the way I think about diesel
The MPG difference is still saving me money compared to the 1fz.
To SLC from denver and back is 1,000 miles. The route I took at least.
Cost me roughly 270ish in diesel, wouldve been 380ish in gasoline. 22mpg versus 12mpg. Lol
Gas is roughly 4.50 a gallon, diesel around 6.00.
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- #200