1fz-fe Refurb Engine Install Advice (what else to do while in there?) (1 Viewer)

[techsis]

Been doing some soul searching after regaining possession of my 95 FZJ. My girl was taken by flatbed to a local dealer with highly skill LC wrench. Upon inspection, as feared, the engine needs replaced (the previous short term owner ran the poor girl with absolutely no oil).

The service advisor provided the summary - rebuilt engine ($4300) + install ($3500) + water pump ($200) + misc gasket / other ($500). I'll go in on Monday to speak with the tech in person.

I am not 100% sure of what else in included, so I figure I will still need at least the following: Motor mounts, header manifolds, gaskets, heat shields, alternator, clutch plate inspection (possible replacement), misc hoses, belts.

Trying to wrap my head around the expenses, but if she is restored and back to being near bulletproof... I'll likely pull the trigger. I even have a brand new supercharger sitting boxed in my garage that could be installed if I move forward with the project.

Any thoughts on additional items I should consider while the heart of the vehicle is being replaced?

I should note that I have seriously considered going with a V8 replacement (by Rockjock... great guy!), but the new crate motor + adapter + wiring + misc + install likely puts me in for too much $.

Also, Thanks to TexasJack for his valuable advice.

 

[jfz80]

Smart shopper price on a new shortblock would rival that rebuild cost.

Manifolds and heat sheilds no, but the rest id spring for. Availability and the wallet are the limit.

Getting to know beno could save you a bundle

Contact

Install seems high but understandable. We clocked ~70 hrs with an RnR recently.

Your calcs show 8-9k. How much diff for the swap with rockjocks help? How abOut a low mile pullout vs crate?

 

[Azca]

If it's out anyway, much of the standard stuff such as hoses, belts, fuel filter etc. But I would also do the alternator, starter and AC compressor, condenser, radiator, power steering hoses (these really suck) and the brake booster. I know others will ask why. Why, your truck is 22 years old. Things break, go bad, deteriorate. Yes, even Toyota stuff.

If you really want to go whole hog, the engine wiring harness (and protect it at the EGR pipe) and coil. Relays may not be a bad idea either but, they are easy to get to.

These items are a PITA to get to later, why deal with it again and have to tear it all apart later? The engine is out, they have already removed this stuff anyway. Do all of this and you will have many years of no worries ahead. I can tell you that when I rebuilt mine I replaced almost all of this stuff and don't regret it for a second. The one item I didn't and now wish that I did, was the wiring harness.

All of that said, if you are rebuilding it, I would seriously looking at dropping in a LS engine instead. Not much more and superior driveability...

 

[baldilocks]

I agree with @Azca and would add to that list replacing the oil seal for the torque converter. Make sure that the AC line which follows the contour of the fire wall is not chaffing through. I had one with a hole in it toward the passenger side. The AC system will be dumped, this is the perfect time to remove this line for inspection and install new Orings through out. That AC line is a mega PITA to replace with the engine installed and it only costs $90 from the dealer.

The brake booster is also difficult to replace with the engine installed.

If you dont think you will have this 80 into the distant future then go cheap.

 

[scrowley]

Knock sensors. All vac lines. Wrap harness at egr.

 

[techsis]

So far, I have added these to the list based on on-line pricing that I'm not sure my dealer will match (could add 25%):

Fuel pump - $258
Stabilizers (2 * $22) = $44
Power Steering pump = $300
Alternator = $200
Break booster = $545
Rear AC Line = $90

... another $1450 (or dealer will likely price at $1800)

Possible others:
Wiring harness = ???

Getting even pricier by the minute.

The other option of dropping in a V8 is a serious undertaking. The new crate powertrain alone will set me back over $10k + $5k adapters / parts + install + $1k min transport + other items needing replacing. So for grins, lets go with $22k. I could sell my unopened Magnuson Supercharger to help offset a bit of the costs.

A brand new short block sounds great, but then adding the headers is another big price tag item + labor.

Adding up all these pieces helps explain the 22yr old high entry price point on the LC. No matter the current market value of these rigs, the components are pricey. My hang-up is I absolutely love this rig! I have owned a LX570 and while it's nice... it lacked the ability to make me smile when I would enter the garage. I also enjoy the conversations that always occur when frequently stopping for gas in the LC.

 

[DirtScaresMe]

If it makes you feel any better, you'd drop 25K for a jeep wrangler and have interest + taxes + you could fit one other person and a backpack.

I'm of the opinion that a LC is a vehicle worth investing in. Honestly, there's not a lot of rides out there that you can say that about. My buddy has an 04-ish Pathfinder and Nissan stopped making s*** for his "truck" like 5 years after the fact so he's dealing with chopped up rehashed gear via napa. I was horrified.

 

[baldilocks]

I was recently faced with the decision of what to do about an alternator that just up and quit after I replaced the brushes and regulator less than a year ago.

After shopping for an hour, I decided to go with an oem remanufactured unit from my local dealer. It was $264. The same part from toyotapartsonline.com = $ 170 plus $35 shipping plus $30 core which I would pay to ship back so that's a wash bringing the total to $235. I figured for an extra $30 and quicker delivery and no trip to FedEx to return my old core, I would just get it from the dealer.
Alternatives can be had cheaper elsewhere and with life time warranties but I figure that if I can't get a good alternator from Toyota, who can I get one from? And replacing the 80 series alternator is tedious.

Are you planning to buy all oem parts? Engine mount isolators is something else I decided to buy oem, just this morning. You can get them for less than $25 each from China. But since they are also not easy to change out, I opted to pay for oem.

 

[DirtScaresMe]

Oh and chrome the engine bay like a boss.

 

[Azca]

Oh and chrome the engine bay like a boss.

Well - that might be overdoing it a smidge! I will say to take the opportunity to clean the bejesus out of the bay while it is out. You will never be able to get it cleaner.

 

[ajax1]

Rebuild cost , if you are using all Toyota parts your looking at 3200 bucks or so just in parts, the fact that he is telling you 4300 for engine makes me think your getting one of those cheaper rebuilds from company or bunch China parts.

 

[danthman114]

What I'm going to do is when that time comes, I'm going to get a Cummins and toss that POS 1fz in the scrap yard. Slow, gutless, and drinks too much fuel..

 

[techsis]

I'll get the details on the refurbed engine on Monday. He stated it was all Toyota parts used in the rebuild, but I do have my doubts.

Smart shopper price on a new shortblock would rival that rebuild cost.

Getting to know beno could save you a bundle

If I could source a new short block for about the same price, what is left to add besides headers (valve covers, timing cover, oil pump, oil pan)? I have viewed knock off headers for sale, but have yet to see new Toyota headers. Does anyone happen to know of their availability and the price point?

Starting to feel the leaning towards the V8 again.

 

[ajax1]

You can get denso fuel pump from rock auto for 113.00, change your alternator brushes I think are round 20bucks prob all ya need. Pump from yotaprob close to your 300 I think mine was 330 and you'll need to change the gear, or you can get rebuild kit for way less. Your manifolds are prob fine if they are Toyota, check them make sure they are square or level still, never seen them bad but sure there is one out there. I'd just buy used set if ya had to.

 

[Flank]

Oh and chrome the engine bay like a boss.

 

[techsis]

Oh and chrome the engine bay like a boss.

Thought I should go for something tasteful...

 

[jfz80]

Why all this talk of headers?
And all the other misc serviceable hard pieces from your old motor. You likely have perfectly good manifolds bolted to your old motor. As well as valve cover and oil pan.

I get some service items like alt, ps pump, brake booster even though if working fine id be tempted to leave them.

This look much more like a OCD level viii restoration punch list than while you are in there. Btw there are at least a dozen while you are in there threads to peruse for other ideas as well.

I know youre looking for other things to do during the process but half the things you are pricing are not needed just extas and thats blowing your budget wide open but is at least a more accurate comparison to the v8 pricing scheme you followed with all new parts to new part comparison.

Whats left to add to a short block? That's a question best answered by the contact i provided as ive not had one but your list is a start, plus a head. Id say use your old one but they are avail new too if really getting carried away. And they come empty so cams, chains, pucs, etc.

 

[techsis]

Why all this talk of headers?
And all the other misc serviceable hard pieces from your old motor. You likely have perfectly good manifolds bolted to your old motor. As well as valve cover and oil pan.

I get some service items like alt, ps pump, brake booster even though if working fine id be tempted to leave them.

This look much more like a OCD level viii restoration punch list than while you are in there. Btw there are at least a dozen while you are in there threads to peruse for other ideas as well.

I know youre looking for other things to do during the process but half the things you are pricing are not needed just extas and thats blowing your budget wide open but is at least a more accurate comparison to the v8 pricing scheme you followed with all new parts to new part comparison.

Whats left to add to a short block? That's a question best answered by the contact i provided as ive not had one but your list is a start, plus a head. Id say use your old one but they are avail new too if really getting carried away. And they come empty so cams, chains, pucs, etc.

My mistake, I intended to only type 'head', rather than 'header' when referring the short block alternative.

OCD, well I can agree with you on that observation for this specific project. Getting a more accurate comparison for the V8 swap is indeed one of my intents.

I'll reach out to Beno and thanks for your knowledgeable input.

Cheers!

 

[jfz80]

Nothing wrong with OCD and didnt mean to sound critical..... jealous would be more appropriate

Think the head is ~14-1500 and comes bare.

Short block was ~4500 iirc
I believe it needs oil cooler, upper and lower pan, timing cover, and a few others.

Check out cruiseroutditters for brand new aisin front timing covers with pump for under 200$

 

[LTD FJ]

I will keep an eye on this thread! Doing the same with my 80. Sent it to ACC and the found metal chunks in the pan and filter. Starting all over from the block and doing the Magnuson Supercharger also. Let the fun begin......