Builds 1995 PZJ75 refurbish/build up

[crushers]

Hi Wayne, could be one or 2 problems that just occurred at the same time by chance, or by something you did.

I'd check the headlight fuse (which i'm sure you have done), then check back at the fuse panel, maybe you pinched or chaffed a wire when you had the dash out. Check at the panel to see if you have power coming into the starter and headlight fuses.

Then I'd clean the battery connections and posts. There might be enough power trickling throught the cables for some ancilliary devices - but not enough for the starter.

If it is "clicking' then you are getting power to the starter - check how much.

If that doesnt work, hit the starter with a solid object that isnt you head. Try a cat or an axe handle.

Have fun on your trip!

Louis
Adventure Auto Imports

PS, my 2 trucks got bumped off the june 27 boat, looks like my guy has a few spots booked for the July 10 Boat - keeping fingers crossed.

Louis,
so i found out the problem with the headlights. i took them out of the LJ71 without checking the system over. it turns out they are PIAA so i grtabed the rest of the harness and bingo, i have headlights.
starter is still no go. i tried the old tap method but i think when we pulled the fenders i disconected something and never hooked it back up so in a couple weeks i will get back to it...

doesn't it suck when you get bumped... i have 2 coming over this month, one already heading to the dock and the other is an iffy...

the trip will be grand, we are wheeling with some great guys so expect a trip report when i get back and pics, if i don't drop the camera in the mud...
cheers

 

[Stone]

Holy cow, Wayne...I can't believe that's the same truck. Awesome job!

 

[crushers]

for those of you that wanted outdoor shots, a couple quickies...
before and after (so far)
thanks Stoney for the compliment...

 

[Greg_B]

Just a tad different Wayne. Good on you...

gb

 

[crushers]

Thaks Greg,
once i get the front bumper on, the new rims and tires installed and the trayback on then i am hoping it will be one of the nicer rigs i have built...

i posted this for a couple reasons,
one was to show the work that i can do.
another was to show that the cost to redo a truck even when wheeling and dealing can cost a small fortune.
also that there is a difference to going over a truck and actually getting right into it and where the price for such work is arrived from.

before it is done the front and rear diffs will be rebuilt, the tcase will be rebuilt and the tranny will be swapped out with a new clutch installed.

it isn't a "frame off" restoration but a refurbishing and updating.

cheers guys and thanks for following along.

 

[74fj40]

just saw this thread. you are doin an amazing job on her. I cant wait until my 40 is in this stage

 

[coldtaco]

So Wayne...

Nice job. One of my future goals is to replace the rusty Canadian body BJ-70 with a Jap body. Haven't decided yet what style: 70, 73/74, or soft top 70? Anyway, my question to you is is there a way to put a nother body on a 70 without removing the firewall? Can you dissasemble the original body, floor and all, from the firewall and mate the new body to the original firewall? Or do you have to cut across the floor someplace and weld the new in? Or pull the whole tub, firewall inclunded, and do a RHD to LHD swap? Probably will not be doing anything about this this year, probably will try for next summer. Any other ideas? Thanks.

 

[crushers]

from what I have seen in the dismantling of the RHD LJ71 and the dismantling and rebuilding of the HZJ75 using some RHD parts.
the firewall is definitely RHD specific and to leave that firewall and try and adapt the LHD parts to it would be an effort in futility.
I would remove the complete firewall and install into the RHD body from a LHD unit.
even simple things most of us would not even think about, the e/brake location is wrong. the wiring will need to be completely flipped RH to LH.
the wiper assembly is RH specific including the vent that rests above the firewall covering the wiper system.
to do it right (as far as I know and I am a beginner here) would be to completely remove the tub, mount it to a rotating jig in such a way it CAN NOT move. cut out the old firewall leaving about 1/2" of metal all the way around for both location and stability. cut out the LH firewall right at the meeting place. this would give you a good meshing of old and new.
I would also be tempted to use the adhesive to join the 2 instead of welding. the new products they have out are extremely strong and the joint would be "filled" with a water resistant material so no caulking would be needed.
unless you did the work yourself the cost would be prohibitive. at the same time you do not want to have a butcher job done.
this is just my early morning thoughts on the matter...
cheers

 

[70sguy]

Oh ya.. Wayne, YOU ARE THE MAN. The 75 looks fantastic. Hard to believe it is the same truck.

Cheers!

Sheldon

 

[crushers]

thanks Sheldon, i am trying...
cheers

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Way to go Wayne-O. I dang sure wish that we could get those things down here.

 

[dieseldog]

It's a Beaut! I love the color and I've always wanted to know more about the 1PZ. Hope you get the starter thing sorted out.

 

[coldtaco]

Sheldon

I will respond by email.

 

[crushers]

so i want to publicly thank Marc Ritchie for getting to the bottom of my starting, lighting problems.
it was no easy task but the headlights work great and it starts.
to be completely honest, i lost interest in the project due to these idiotic elec problems but now i am stoaked to get back at it.
new direction for the back end, i will be removing the box off the 1997 and paint it the same blue and mount that to this rig.
the reason is, i have to redo the 1997 soon and i can do a nice trayback on it without having to rush. this also allows me to finish off this project and allows me to bring Cruiser with us out to Land Cruiser days.
so, if all goes well i should have a further update late next week.
cheers (and THANKS MARC)

 

[tlcruiserman]

so i want to publicly thank Marc Ritchie for getting to the bottom of my starting, lighting problems.
it was no easy task but the headlights work great and it starts.
to be completely honest, i lost interest in the project due to these idiotic elec problems but now i am stoaked to get back at it.
new direction for the back end, i will be removing the box off the 1997 and paint it the same blue and mount that to this rig.
the reason is, i have to redo the 1997 soon and i can do a nice trayback on it without having to rush. this also allows me to finish off this project and allows me to bring Cruiser with us out to Land Cruiser days.
so, if all goes well i should have a further update late next week.
cheers (and THANKS MARC)

So what ended up being the problem?

Michael

 

[crushers]

i have no idea, Marc scratched his head, putzed under the dash for about 3 hours and bingo the demon was erraticated and the lights now work...
(electricity is the work of the devil, little black boxes all over the place with invisible energy in one end and out the other)

 

[mikeyT]

Great work, Wayne. Real artisan-ship.

Cheers.

 

[crushers]

thanks for the compliment Mike...
cheers

 

[crushers]

so between work and play, i was able to get the front bumper installed. the rest of the day has been invested in tearing down a R151 for inspection. in some ways this tranny is much easier to work on in comparrison to the H55F.
i have ran into a snag but hopefully with a bit of reaserch i will find the solution.

so far i have discovered the same out put shaft covers the H55F and the R141, R150, R151 so that is good news.
i have also confirmed the t/case used on the LJ71 is the same as the one behind the H55F so i should be able to install the 2.48 gears from the auto into this t/case.

with further part number crossing the following parts # are the same for the LJ, KZ, PZ:
input shaft bearing inner and outer
3rd gear
5th gear
trans hub clutch #2
trans hub sleeve
needle roller bearing 2nd gear
roller bearing for counter gear rear
roller bearing for counter gear front
reverse idler gear sub assembly


so it looks like i should be able to remove the input shaft from the LJ and install the PZ input shaft which will give me a 5 speed for the PZJ75. i should find out tomorrow.

cheers

 

[crushers]

so this is my first time tearing into a R151 so please bear with me.

i thought i would post this in case anyone else runs into the same problem...

i remove the t/case
i remove all the bolts and follow the FSM verbatim and i could not get the rear transmition adapter off. it was loose and about 1" of gap. i looked and saw the fork was still engaged... WHAT?? i look in the book again and i had remoed the retaining bolt as per instructions but the fork will not move so i check out instructions for other models... same thing... crap.
so i am flippiung it over and looking from all angles and when i look down from the top i notice the rod holding the fork has moved back about 1/2" so i think if i push on here...
the rod goes out the back of the case and the fork is now free... duh. it would have been nice if they would have mentioned it...

not compaining persay, i love learning new things...

cheers