1991 FJ80 Proud New Owner, WA (1 Viewer)

[Leviathan R]

Hey guys,

I'm new to the forum and I'm the proud new owner of this 1991 FJ80. The vehicle has 195K and as far as I can tell from the mechanic receipts and maintenance logs, it has been well cared for (will post more info on previous work done if the need arises.)

After taking her for a few spins around the block, I have noticed 4 issues that will need to be dealt with in the immediate future before I begin planning any trips with her (which I haven't, I promise!!!)

1. While driving 40 mph+, the steering wheel will sometimes develop a very strong shudder (2" to 3" wobble around circumference of steering wheel). This phenomenon occurs while under load, coasting, and braking. For troubleshooting I will inspect the steering and drive components, ball joints, bearings, tie rods, etc. and possibly have the tires re-balanced for safe measure. I've seen what a steering shake looks like when the tires are unbalanced and I can tell you that mine is much more strong, violent, larger wobble etc.

2. After vehicle has been ran and driven for few minutes, the vehicle will experience low, resonating vibration that causes some noises (low, vibration type noise) while idling at a stop. This phenomenon only occurs while stopped AND while the drive selector is in "D". If the drive selected is in "P" the vibration goes away along with any noise and the engine itself sounds nice and healthy and strong. I've spent maybe an hour on these forums and it seems like it might be a motor mount issue as the vibration only occurs when the engine comes under load. I just purchased some new ones on a hunch ($30) and if I'm wrong, oh well!

3. I discovered that she carries with her the infamous "clunk" that seems to bless (read: plague) this vehicle when the driver applies gas or removes it. I've read a few other forum posts about it so it looks like I'll need to hop on the creeper with my flashlight and grease gun and lube the u-joints and yoke splines for starters. The more I read, the less hellbent I will be on chasing the "clunk" out of her, I just want to make sure the "clunk" is within normal operating ranges as specc'd by Toyota in the FSM .

4. The support stay for the catalytic converter is broken and needs to replaced. I'm still in the process of finding a parts store that carries one. Worst case, my cousin is a journeyman welder who can help me fabricate something in a pinch. This is a straight forward fix.

I'm really looking forward to having a decent adventure vehicle for my wife and I. I like the positive attitude of most everyone on this forum so I also look forward to any input/advice etc. from you guys on getting her ready for the road. I'll try to do most of the leg work in researching what has already been asked, but if there are some good keywords or topics to look into feel free to shoot them my way. If you have any ideas on the above mechanical issues, I'd appreciate any/all comments.

TL : DR
This 1991 FJ80 is mine. It has some issues. I'll be getting my hands dirty

 

[RedComet]

Awesome man! Nice clean body and i like the brush guard and rain guards. I have a 92 with the same "clunk" problem, seems to be pretty common. Grab/Download a FSM and work your way through baselining. And whatever $$ you have earmarked, expect to double it. lol Good Luck!

 

[Mixelplix]

Nice truck!!

After putting about 80k miles on my 91, I might be able to offer some insight.


1. While driving 40 mph+, the steering wheel will sometimes develop a very strong shudder (2" to 3" wobble around circumference of steering wheel). This phenomenon occurs while under load, coasting, and braking. For troubleshooting I will inspect the steering and drive components, ball joints, bearings, tie rods, etc. and possibly have the tires re-balanced for safe measure. I've seen what a steering shake looks like when the tires are unbalanced and I can tell you that mine is much more strong, violent, larger wobble etc.

Steering stabilizer, or tie rod ends. The stabilizer can only be checked visually (leaking = bad), or by removing it (easy to compress = bad). Be sure to buy a stabilizer, and not a shock - some places sell you a shock, and I believe the valving is different since it's in a horizontal position. You can't go wrong with OEM since your truck is stock. That's what I have, and I remember it being cheap.

2. After vehicle has been ran and driven for few minutes, the vehicle will experience low, resonating vibration that causes some noises (low, vibration type noise) while idling at a stop. This phenomenon only occurs while stopped AND while the drive selector is in "D". If the drive selected is in "P" the vibration goes away along with any noise and the engine itself sounds nice and healthy and strong. I've spent maybe an hour on these forums and it seems like it might be a motor mount issue as the vibration only occurs when the engine comes under load. I just purchased some new ones on a hunch ($30) and if I'm wrong, oh well!

My truck does this, and it's the exhaust hitting other parts / resonating. My exhaust rumbles at the drivers side shock tower where the primaries pass to the exterior of the frame, and behind the passengers door where it makes a 90 degree turn into the muffler. Maybe you'll get lucky and you just have some rotted exhaust hangers. (Visually check them) If not, and it continues to bother you, you can adjust the exhaust. There's wiggle room built into the slotted fastener opening at the primaries where they meet the exhaust manifold (good luck with those bolts) and you can move the exhaust away from the shock tower maybe 3/8" - in other locations you'll just have to fiddle with the hangers. I've left mine alone.


3. I discovered that she carries with her the infamous "clunk" that seems to bless (read: plague) this vehicle when the driver applies gas or removes it. I've read a few other forum posts about it so it looks like I'll need to hop on the creeper with my flashlight and grease gun and lube the u-joints and yoke splines for starters. The more I read, the less hellbent I will be on chasing the "clunk" out of her, I just want to make sure the "clunk" is within normal operating ranges as specc'd by Toyota in the FSM .

4. The support stay for the catalytic converter is broken and needs to replaced. I'm still in the process of finding a parts store that carries one. Worst case, my cousin is a journeyman welder who can help me fabricate something in a pinch. This is a straight forward fix.

I eliminated my cats, and welded new O2 bungs into the straight pipe. No CEL.



Regarding future mods.. I've been very happy with mine, and I don't worry about the digs we 3FE engine owners get about lack of power. With 16" wheels from a 93+ truck, and 33" tires (skinny ones, in my case) I've been able to take part in a whole lot of adventures. If you decide to move up in tire size, and live in a mountainous area like I do you may want to consider regearing (I did (4.88's), and I don't regret it)

Good luck!

 

[Leviathan R]

Nice truck!!

After putting about 80k miles on my 91, I might be able to offer some insight.


1. While driving 40 mph+, the steering wheel will sometimes develop a very strong shudder (2" to 3" wobble around circumference of steering wheel). This phenomenon occurs while under load, coasting, and braking. For troubleshooting I will inspect the steering and drive components, ball joints, bearings, tie rods, etc. and possibly have the tires re-balanced for safe measure. I've seen what a steering shake looks like when the tires are unbalanced and I can tell you that mine is much more strong, violent, larger wobble etc.

Steering stabilizer, or tie rod ends. The stabilizer can only be checked visually (leaking = bad), or by removing it (easy to compress = bad). Be sure to buy a stabilizer, and not a shock - some places sell you a shock, and I believe the valving is different since it's in a horizontal position. You can't go wrong with OEM since your truck is stock. That's what I have, and I remember it being cheap.

2. After vehicle has been ran and driven for few minutes, the vehicle will experience low, resonating vibration that causes some noises (low, vibration type noise) while idling at a stop. This phenomenon only occurs while stopped AND while the drive selector is in "D". If the drive selected is in "P" the vibration goes away along with any noise and the engine itself sounds nice and healthy and strong. I've spent maybe an hour on these forums and it seems like it might be a motor mount issue as the vibration only occurs when the engine comes under load. I just purchased some new ones on a hunch ($30) and if I'm wrong, oh well!

My truck does this, and it's the exhaust hitting other parts / resonating. My exhaust rumbles at the drivers side shock tower where the primaries pass to the exterior of the frame, and behind the passengers door where it makes a 90 degree turn into the muffler. Maybe you'll get lucky and you just have some rotted exhaust hangers. (Visually check them) If not, and it continues to bother you, you can adjust the exhaust. There's wiggle room built into the slotted fastener opening at the primaries where they meet the exhaust manifold (good luck with those bolts) and you can move the exhaust away from the shock tower maybe 3/8" - in other locations you'll just have to fiddle with the hangers. I've left mine alone.


3. I discovered that she carries with her the infamous "clunk" that seems to bless (read: plague) this vehicle when the driver applies gas or removes it. I've read a few other forum posts about it so it looks like I'll need to hop on the creeper with my flashlight and grease gun and lube the u-joints and yoke splines for starters. The more I read, the less hellbent I will be on chasing the "clunk" out of her, I just want to make sure the "clunk" is within normal operating ranges as specc'd by Toyota in the FSM .

4. The support stay for the catalytic converter is broken and needs to replaced. I'm still in the process of finding a parts store that carries one. Worst case, my cousin is a journeyman welder who can help me fabricate something in a pinch. This is a straight forward fix.

I eliminated my cats, and welded new O2 bungs into the straight pipe. No CEL.



Regarding future mods.. I've been very happy with mine, and I don't worry about the digs we 3FE engine owners get about lack of power. With 16" wheels from a 93+ truck, and 33" tires (skinny ones, in my case) I've been able to take part in a whole lot of adventures. If you decide to move up in tire size, and live in a mountainous area like I do you may want to consider regearing (I did (4.88's), and I don't regret it)

Good luck!

Thanks for the insight Mixelplix, I'll be looking it over tomorrow so I'll make sure to check the steering stabilizer and exhaust hangers as well. My main concern right now is getting it road and trail ready for the summer. I'm typically not one for going crazy into modifications but after seeing some of the rigs on here I see why it is very tempting. She won't be used for crawling, just getting my wife and I (and canoe, bikes, climbing gear, backpacking gear!!) to the trails, rivers, mountains we want to visit. I'll let you know what I find out.

Levi

 

[Leviathan R]

Quick updates,

1. I greased the u-joints and slip yokes on the front and rear propeller shafts and that seemed to do away with the clunk for now.
2. I visually inspected the steering stabilizer. No oil leak, obvious damage or noticeable defects.
3. I visually inspected the steering components and checked for play in the front tires (12 o'clock to 6 o'clock, and 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock) and found none. Axle housing was not greasy so I assume the oil seals are working fine.
   
4. I noticed the driver side tie rod end seal is worn and a small amount of grease is showing. I will plan on a full tie rod replacement package.
   
5. I changed the oil, oil filter, and coolant.
6. I noticed one of the mounting bolts for the engine under cover is missing and is most likely contributing to the vibrations/rattling I had mentioned.
7. I rotated the tires to see how that would effect the steering wheel shudder. A test at 60 mph on the interstate yielded good results. A significant decrease in shaking at speed and breaking. In light of this I am much more prone to believe the shaking is due to tire imbalance. I will be taking them in to be re-balanced in the next few days.
8. Still no luck finding a support stay for the catalytic converter, any ideas on a vendors who might carry them. I tried Lakeland Toyota but the part was sold out/discontinued.
9. I will be replacing the differential fluids and transfer case fluids once I receive the allen-style magnetic drain plugs that everyone here recommends.
10. I don't think the air filter catch pan had ever been cleaned.
    

A question,

1. Are the various dash switches lighted individually or lighted in a group by a bulb? I noticed some of the switches don't light up, (antenna, mirror adjuster, etc) and I'd like to address that at some point.
2. The fuel door was MIA upon purchase. Any ideas on vendors who carry that sort of thing?
   
3. How does this stabilizer bar cushion look? I don't know if it should be split or not. Both sides look like this.

 

[tacosupreme]

Try emailing Fuel Door 91-97 80 Series [77350-60010] - $44.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts and see if they have a used fuel door in your color. You can also get a new one from Welcome I would also replace the cable, chances are it broke, someone couldn't get it open, so they removed the door.

Another source for parts- FJ80 - JTOutfitters

It is always possible to do a junkyard search and find one at a nearby yard as well. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

[LS1FJ40]

@arcteryx aka Jason aka Cruiser Yard is excellent for used parts. I've purchased many used parts from him (and some new ones). Always excellent service and quality.

New OEM parts can be purchased from @beno. He is the resident parts guru.

The 3FE is the best petrol motor offered in the 80 series. Don't let anyone's opinion tell you otherwise. It is bombproof. Enjoy the ride.

 

[LS1FJ40]

And for the record, that is the best color of 80.

Ditch the running boards and damage multiplier (front grill guard thing). You'll thank me later.

 

[LS1FJ40]

And replace your steering stabilizer and shocks. Old man emu steering stabilizers are about $80-90 and worth it. Yours is worn out and needs replaced. Trust me. You can get it from Cruiser Outfitters aka @cruiseroutfit

And if you aren't going to lift it the OEM shocks cannot be beat for ride ability and cost.

If you are going to lift it then you can read for days about shocks.

Your springs are in need of replacement more than likely as well. Old Man Emu springs are cost effective and Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has them as well.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

And replace your steering stabilizer and shocks. Old man emu steering stabilizers are about $80-90 and worth it. Yours is worn out and needs replaced. Trust me. You can get it from Cruiser Outfitters aka @cruiseroutfit

And if you aren't going to lift it the OEM shocks cannot be beat for ride ability and cost.

If you are going to lift it then you can read for days about shocks.

Your springs are in need of replacement more than likely as well. Old Man Emu springs are cost effective and Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has them as well.

We (Cruiser Outfitters) would love to help with your suspension needs. We stock all of ther common Old Man Emu options as well as all of the OEM Toyota parts.

 

[RiFF RaFF]

We (Cruiser Outfitters) would love to help with your suspension needs. We stock all of ther common Old Man Emu options as well as all of the OEM Toyota parts.

Kurt - you and I will be talking about suspension for my 96 LC - soon!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Kurt - you and I will be talking about suspension for my 96 LC - soon!

We would love to help!

 

[Leviathan R]

Thanks @tacosupreme and @LS1FJ40 for the recommendations for parts suppliers!

Haven't been doing much on this rig lately as it is not my DD. Here is a small list of items I have addressed:

• Had tires re-balanced, rotated and alignment check. IIRC all four tires were 5 oz. off. I'm not quite sure how dramatic that is but the car drives very well now at high speed, (no wobble at all)

• Cleaned the throttle body and MAF. I hate to admit it but I joined the club of ham-fisted rookies who unscrewed the DO NOT UNSCREW screws and had to rebuild it. The forum was a huge help in getting that mess sorted out. Looking back I still scratch my head and wonder why those screws looked like they would solve all of the worlds problems if only I would unscrew them...

• Installed new OEM intake hose (old one was previously buggered and I went and buggered it some more while cleaning the throttle body.)
• New Denso spark plugs

I really need to find an exhaust support bracket (the one located behind the cats) it is completely rusted through and I don't think it is salvageable at this point. I stuffed a few cardboard pieces where the exhaust is hitting the chassis and I have found that This broken mount is causing 95-99% of the chassis noise (clanking, clunking, clanging, banging). Seems to be a discontinued part as I can't find anyone who carries it. I'm heading to the junk yard today to see if they might have one.

I'll be taking her out for some camping next weekend so I'll have some pics to post over in the "What did you do..." post.

Thanks to all who have contributed to the very broad and deep wealth of knowledge regarding the Toyota Land Cruiser! It's been a huge help so far.

 

[RiFF RaFF]

We would love to help!

Soon Kurt. Very soon. Just have to pry open the wife's purse strings. ALMOST have her convinced that if we don't upgrade the suspension the zombies will get us!!

 

[tlin]

Nice looking '91, welcome to the 3FE club.

Some really useful baseline/maintenance tips here.

 

[yohavos]

Spalding Auto parts had a few 80's in their yard the last time I was there. It may be worth a trip.

Belated welcome to the 80 series world, check out the Spokane clubhouse--it's quiet, but we're working on getting more social.

Let me know if you ever need a hand with anything. I've got two 80's in the driveway and a fridge of beer! I'll check my pile of parts for a fuel door.

-Mike

 

[Leviathan R]

Nice looking '91, welcome to the 3FE club.

Some really useful baseline/maintenance tips here.

@tlin That's a great resource! I will def be using that as a reference as I work my way through all of the PM's.

Spalding Auto parts had a few 80's in their yard the last time I was there. It may be worth a trip.

@yohavos I actually went there yesterday and didn't have any luck. They do have 3 80's there but they are fairly parted out and I didn't have any luck.

Belated welcome to the 80 series world, check out the Spokane clubhouse--it's quiet, but we're working on getting more social.

I'll look into it. It would be nice to meet some fellow landcruiser owners and learn a thing or three.

Let me know if you ever need a hand with anything. I've got two 80's in the driveway and a fridge of beer! I'll check my pile of parts for a fuel door.

Thanks for the offer, I'm always down to trade beer money for parts and labor!

Regards,

Levi

 

[yohavos]

I've got this old thing... not sure if it's serviceable or not, or if it's worth the re-paint, but you're welcome to it.

 

[Spencersieler]

hey, 80 series twin!

as far as the deep rumble while stopped in drive, mine did the same thing, you should preform the Quick EGR Delete, it will stop pumping hot exhaust gas into the intake. fixed my issue at least. also, motor mounts can help. but be sure to get a matching set, both OEM or both aftermarket, also, its tuff to find the correct ones (toyota has the part number wrong)

 

[Leviathan R]

@yohavos PM sent

@Spencersieler I'll look into that. I did pick up a set of new engine mounts that I plan on swapping here soon. Thanks for the tip!