Build 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”

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Hi
Uh, very encouraging ... So, what is the best approach to fix the vakuum system, if the pump dies and spares are NLA?
Really crazy there is nobody around your place, @FJBen , to crimp that hose.. Usually every truck- / tractor- or hydraulic- / aircon- shop has that tool. Maybe you ask a farmer what they do in case of a hydraulic failure on their machines.
I'll have a look at mine, too ...
Thank you for your pics. Always a highlight.
Cheers Ralf
 
Felde said:
Hi
Uh, very encouraging ... So, what is the best approach to fix the vakuum system, if the pump dies and spares are NLA?
Really crazy there is nobody around your place, @FJBen , to crimp that hose.. Usually every truck- / tractor- or hydraulic- / aircon- shop has that tool. Maybe you ask a farmer what they do in case of a hydraulic failure on their machines.
I'll have a look at mine, too ...
Thank you for your pics. Always a highlight.
Cheers Ralf
Click to expand...

Good morning!

Yeah it’s a little boggling that no one can do banjos here. They can do the other things. A place in a Colorado redid my supply line and reused the end, I may have to just head back there and be down for a couple weeks.

I think Toyota just used what they had to make an oil drain that had to go 90 degrees into the block. A banjo works good for that, although there are better and potentially simpler options for low pressure return.

I think the solution for the vacuum pump if it fails on these will honestly fix 2 issues. Get a separate pump that’s electrical powered and maybe add a vacuum resivoir for extra capacity.

That also frees you up to get may more options for better alternators.


There was some talk about Isuzu NPR trucks that had the vacuum pump on the back, but I never got too much into what was needed to fit it.
 
cruiserdan said:
I bought the very last vacuum pump in the world wide Toyota distribution pipeline 10 and a half years ago. At that time employee cost was over $740.00 US.

The inner bag is still sealed.

After inflation, yours today is ~$1,200.00 US.
View attachment 4069358View attachment 4069359View attachment 4069360
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very cool, but yeah too rich for me on my jalopy 😂


bj70bc said:
ya mines leaking too, id go with the an style as you get a threaded compression on the hose/barb
No? more leak proof....
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Yeah the only leak is because of rubber hose degradation. I used something similar for my turbo drain since Toyota used and all hard line. I might just look into what fittings I can work without making it look to ghetto
 
FJBen said:
As @OGBeno states, always buy grey market 70 cruisers. Parts are everywhere, never NLA, nothing breaks, they keep up with modern traffic, make money when you sell and you never have to rely on a secondary Prius to get somewhere…


On the 13bt, the vacuum pump is on the back of the alternator. It has oil supply and return. I was starting to get a drip of oil on the floor which is a trigger for me to tear something apart and fix it because I haven’t driven it for a week…

So the leaking was coming the hose right here

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That’s the oil return hose from the vacuum pump.

9092302081​

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Shocking, it’s NLA…

Mine is brittle and appears it was leaking somewhere in the middle and draining down.



View attachment 4069078


Thankfully it’s a fairly common banjo fitting, 14mm, but unfortunately here in the country, no one can make these. Which seems really odd considering all the farming around. I live in the middle of a corn field. The closest place I can find is over an hour away and only open when I’m at work….

As you can see, it’s a banjo on 1 end, slip fitting on the other with just a clamp. So it’s low pressure. It appears I can order various banjo fittings online with a plethora of ends.

Threaded, barbed, press fit, AN, twist lock,

View attachment 4069091


Now I’m not an engineer but is there any reason I can’t just get a barbed banjo fitting and clamp the hose on it? It’s not quite as fancy or as nice as the pressed fitting, but should be strong enough?
The other option could be a 14mm elbow into AN or compression, but is that overkill?

Any other online hose companies that people have used?





Throwback photo to warmer days…

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Since you were thinking of making and not buying: both Napa and carquest near me make all types of hydraulic hoses, if they don't have the barb fitting and you order it from someone like McMaster car you can probably bring it in and they will crimp fit your fitting on a piece of hoes.
 
Well I wanted to drive the cruiser, it’s been a couple weeks.

The only hose the had locally was some Gates plant master extreme 325. High oil resistance so it should be fine.

However it’s red and ugly. Yes I’m like that. And the screw type hose clamps are temp as well until I can get the right sized constant tension OEM style clamps.


IMG_3975.webp


We are getting some decent weather days and I was having cruiser withdrawal. It doesn’t leak, should be fine but I’m definitely building a nicer version. I mean the original hose only lasted 37 years….


And since it was dark I didn’t get any sunset photos so and old school photo of a much younger FJBen wheeling my 55 will have to suffice.


0CF2460D-3C7F-43BB-B9FE-B8B13D63415B_Original.webp
 
you can get auto transmission line hose clamps that are better than those
 
Washed it. Got paid mileage to drive it an hour and a half away to visit a site. Chugged down the interstate at 70mph.

IMG_4103.webp


It really needs a good full detail inside and out. I also need to replace some of the door card snaps/plugs.

Im sure im running up on some axle rebuilds/repack soon as well.


This year so far I wouldn’t have need to swap to hard top. The weather has been crazy, it was 72 the other day. Zero snow this winter. Zero.
 
FJBen said:
Washed it. Got paid mileage to drive it an hour and a half away to visit a site. Chugged down the interstate at 70mph.

View attachment 4084532

It really needs a good full detail inside and out. I also need to replace some of the door card snaps/plugs.

Im sure im running up on some axle rebuilds/repack soon as well.


This year so far I wouldn’t have need to swap to hard top. The weather has been crazy, it was 72 the other day. Zero snow this winter. Zero.
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I know how it feels, I need a full detail inside and out.

Bummer about the no snow so far this season.
 
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I’m fully on the there’s always something wrong with it phase….

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So it appears coolant it sitting on top the timing cover again….😡 so it’s either the water pump gasket (which is metal) or the thermo housing gasket. Which is paper but sealed with RTV.

Im over it right now. This coolant fun has been haunting me the last year off and on. So I plan on mothballing her in the shop until I get any sort of ambition and much warmer weather to F with it.

In other news sounds like I’m might be getting my daughters GX470 back as she’s getting something bigger. (I think she’s made a mistake but they are adults so I’ll take this 😊)


IMG_0521.webp


I already have sliders for it. A quick lift and this thing will go all over and people will actually ride in it. No navigation, no KDSS so nice and simple (for a GX) Maybe this will keep my sanity from wanting to sell my 74 for an 80.
 
?!?something is happening....
 
couple thoughts, what did you take your headbolt torque to, what did you do about deck surface finish ?
what rtv did you use on that thermo gasket, was that gasket face funky, maybe a tighten on the thermostat housing first ?

If its the head-
I push 20psi too, i took the machining ridges down quite a bit by hand on the block deck when i did the head and H.gasket... then did 3 passes up to factory spec torque, then 2 more at that max torque and i still had some move doing that, then the final pass i made sure to make them all move just past the max torque.
If its the thermo-
Maybe that rtv isnt high enough heat rated or is getting degraded by the rad fluid, maybe 'the right stuff' is better here, i also "lapped" the thermo housing flat as i could by hand before re-using it, it was kinda ugly for sure
 
bj70bc said:
couple thoughts, what did you take your headbolt torque to, what did you do about deck surface finish ?
what rtv did you use on that thermo gasket, was that gasket face funky, maybe a tighten on the thermostat housing first ?

If its the head-
I push 20psi too, i took the machining ridges down quite a bit by hand on the block deck when i did the head and H.gasket... then did 3 passes up to factory spec torque, then 2 more at that max torque and i still had some move doing that, then the final pass i made sure to make them all move just past the max torque.
If its the thermo-
Maybe that rtv isnt high enough heat rated or is getting degraded by the rad fluid, maybe 'the right stuff' is better here, i also "lapped" the thermo housing flat as i could by hand before re-using it, it was kinda ugly for sure
Click to expand...

I took the head bolts to factory spec. I did multiple passes to get up to spec in the correct sequence. Then I made sure with 2 different torque wrenches that it was at the correct spec.


The head was resurfaced to correct height, roughness for the MLS. The deck was correct off of surface and height when I rebuilt the engine a couple years ago. Level tests showed the block still level.


The original thermostat gasket is factory metal one. When I tried to use it, it wouldn’t seal at all. Not even close. Instantly leaked. So I’m sure the aluminum housing wasn’t great although it lasted without leaking ever for over 5 years.



I made a gasket out of water pump gasket material, and used RTV that was supposedly coolant safe on both sides.


I’ll test drive and see what I can see on it. If it’s the thermo gasket, I’ll take to machine shop, have them level it and put it back on with some high quality coolant RTV.

If it’s the head I don’t even know what to think at this point as it would be another external leak which kind blows my mind.

I certainly don’t push it hard at all and I would think it should be able to handle that boost fine when others are running up to 25 no issues.
 
Its gotta be the thermo then
 
bj70bc said:
Its gotta be the thermo then
Click to expand...
The odd part is I’ve been watching like a hawk since I’ve replaced all the hoses and water pump a few months back. No leaks everything great.

I moved it outside and high idled at 1200 rpms for about 10 mins as we were rearranging vehicles before a storm hit. Parked it in the shop then it sit for about 4 days I until I went back into the shop and looked and saw the puddle underneath 😡 makes no sense.
 
Another thought.

Have a look at the coolant feed and return for the turbo that come off the upper t stat housing. I found a seep there, the old oem constant tension ones slowly gave up.

If you’re lower housing gasket surface is corroded a new one for 14b is available for something like $60.
Extra hole to plug and thicker flange so you’d need longer studs but other than that the same.

IMG_8323.webp
 
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