Builds 1984 Root Beer in Vermont - Build (3 Viewers)

[Scro]

Came back the other day from errands and apparently left my headlights on. (Note to self....require headlights to key on/off). I came out side later that day and realized the lights were still on. s*** them off and tried to start but only a couple turns before dreaded click.

later I jump started the truck and drove it to go do more chores and the battery seemed to recover. But following morning no crank. So I put the trickle charger on it for a day. Removed charger over night and battery pretty well dead in morning. Sticker on battery showed summer of 2015. So 6 years is about ripe for replacement.

picked up a new interstate battery yesterday and will drop in today. Looking forward to seeing how things work with a fresh battery. Given that your UN off the battery and the alternator just keeps refilling what you use....hopefully a fresher stronger battery will be a little nicer.

Cheap Buzzer for Headlight Mod

This Mod is care of Dynosoar who has a post about it in the "Best Mods under $50" thread ( LINK ) post # 157 ... And after killing my battery for the 3rd time in a month, by leaving the lights on during the day, I finally had to PM Dynosoar 'cuz I couldn't find his post I thought...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Seth S]

Cheap Buzzer for Headlight Mod

This Mod is care of Dynosoar who has a post about it in the "Best Mods under $50" thread ( LINK ) post # 157 ... And after killing my battery for the 3rd time in a month, by leaving the lights on during the day, I finally had to PM Dynosoar 'cuz I couldn't find his post I thought...

forum.ih8mud.com

thanks for the thread suggestion. That would certainly help remind me to turn my lights off. But I always drive with my lights on day or night and I’d rather modify the headlight relay wiring so I can just leave the switch on all the time and have key off kill headlight power. I’ve got all the diagrams and will do a write up when I make the change.

 

[MoaByte]

thanks for the thread suggestion. That would certainly help remind me to turn my lights off. But I always drive with my lights on day or night and I’d rather modify the headlight relay wiring so I can just leave the switch on all the time and have key off kill headlight power. I’ve got all the diagrams and will do a write up when I make the change.

I like this idea. Not sure why it isn't standard equipment since 1980. Are you going to make it so you can still use switch as normal but so lights turn off when key is switched to accessory and lock?

 

[Seth S]

I like this idea. Not sure why it isn't standard equipment since 1980. Are you going to make it so you can still use switch as normal but so lights turn off when key is switched to accessory and lock?

yes. Headlight relay to energize with key on. Also need to make it so parking lights can come on with key off. So have to dig into the wiring diagrams. It might make sense just to re-wire for power switched and replace the headlight harness also as it’s old and definitely not very efficient.

new battery is amazing difference btw.

 

[Seth S]

Went to do some errands a week ago and noticed a rattle that seemed to get louder as we drove but was quieter at lower revs. It didn’t change in neutral with the clutch in or out. It also didn’t seem to be 1:1 with engine rpm. I stopped and popped the hood and could hear it but couldn’t pin it to a source. All the accessories seemed tight and none seemed loud or vibration along with the sound. The alt is new as is the ps pump. I was worried I had a valve or valve train issue so we turned around and swapped cars at home.

I’ve since started and run the car and not heard the same noise when driving but heard it when under the hood. Truck just seems to run too well and smooth for a major rocker or pushrod failure.

next bit of evidence. For a while I have smelled a hot rubber smell after running for a while yet all my belts are in good shape and now squeals or signs of slippage.

So now I’m wondering if my harmonic balancer is starting to fail and the rattle I’m hearing is pulses in the accessories due to pulley slippage on the HB. And the rubber getting hot in there.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Bleh. Isn’t that a rebuilt pulley?

 

[Seth S]

Bleh. Isn’t that a rebuilt pulley?

i don’t know if I still have the OEM pulley on there or if it got replaced with a reman. But yeah the reman ones are often iffy

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

i don’t know if I still have the OEM pulley on there or if it got replaced with a reman. But yeah the reman ones are often iffy

Sorry I just thought you had had it rebuilt or replaced. Easily could be mixing you up w/ someone else.

 

[Seth S]

Sorry I just thought you had had it rebuilt or replaced. Easily could be mixing you up w/ someone else.

Ive never had mine off. But dealt with HB’s on other cars and the reman ones are always a mystery

 

[Seth S]

Pulled the valve cover and all rocker arms and pushrods as well as valve tops looked good. Watched the assembly run and no noises or signs of sticking. Could clearly see all pushrods moving and all had the ends on them without issue.

also watched the harmonic balancer and it was dead centered no wobble.



I’m starting to realize this is a bottom end noise. It’s there at idle and above idle but doesn’t seem to increase directly with revs. It sounds like an exhaust leak in the video but no exhaust leaks and no vacuum leaks since I redid the whole intake and exhaust. Truck holds a stead 700 rpm idle and starts and runs well.

 

[Seth S]

Oil pressure seems fine so far and no excessive oil use or smoke out exhaust. Starting to wonder if I’ve got a bad bearing.

 

[Seth S]

Thinking my next step is to back the tension off all my belts so they don’t spin and see how the noise is. This would take all the load off the harmonic balancer and should rule it out for good. I suspect the harmonic balancer is ok and the noise I am hearing is internal. Either a bearing going south or a thrust washer problem.

 

[Miloslavich]

Sorry to hear Seth, sounds like you are on the right troubleshooting track tho

 

[Miloslavich]

Oh - if it is indeed your HB, which i doubt, theres a guy who can rebuild them out in CA, he does amazing work, I have a few posts about his business here on MUD. All he does is HB's.

or, you can dish out the ~650 for a new one.. which are still available last I checked

 

[Seth S]

Oh - if it is indeed your HB, which i doubt, theres a guy who can rebuild them out in CA, he does amazing work, I have a few posts about his business here on MUD. All he does is HB's.

or, you can dish out the ~650 for a new one.. which are still available last I checked

thanks for the heads up on both accounts. If it’s the HB (Which I doubt also) I’ll check those out...I did see city racer had one for $500 but wasn’t sure if it was brand new oem or oem rebuild or something.

I think most likely I’ll be dropping the oil pan to have a look or tearing down. I’d honestly just drop a 3fe in at this point if I could find a decent one. For the driving I do the 3fe would be a good fit and save me the $1200 to do a sniper install. But I do have the ability to tear down and rebuild my 2f if it comes to it. Though I’ll have to seriously consider swaps a d options if/when it’s apparent

 

[Miloslavich]

I hear ya. If you are going to do a swap, i'd consider something beyond the 3FE. budget considering of course. in the 2F vs 3FE argument, i like the simplicity and durability of the 2f vs. the 3FE. Fewer electronics, more robustness to Solar flare and EMP . Asin carbs just work - as you know. but if you are going to swap, the power and economy of the 2.8 Cummins is very tempting. Then again folks do the 2FE mod too, lots to consider.
either way I hope you come to an easy fix. Those are always the best.

how many miles on the 2F now?

 

[Seth S]

I hear ya. If you are going to do a swap, i'd consider something beyond the 3FE. budget considering of course. in the 2F vs 3FE argument, i like the simplicity and durability of the 2f vs. the 3FE. Fewer electronics, more robustness to Solar flare and EMP . Asin carbs just work - as you know. but if you are going to swap, the power and economy of the 2.8 Cummins is very tempting. Then again folks do the 2FE mod too, lots to consider.
either way I hope you come to an easy fix. Those are always the best.

how many miles on the 2F now?

a 2.8 swap is a bit out of my budget right now unfortunately. But I agree it’s a slick setup when done.

about 210,000 on my 2f right now. Hasn’t been using any oil. Starts and runs well and this symptom is new. I do have a friend with a lift and heated garage and the means to do all the rebuild work short of machine shop.

 

[Seth S]

I’m not sure if I’d get lucky enough to use the same pistons with a fresh hone and new rings. And replace all the bearings or fix the affected journals. Guess I’ll see if I get to that point

 

[Miloslavich]

I’m not sure if I’d get lucky enough to use the same pistons with a fresh hone and new rings. And replace all the bearings or fix the affected journals. Guess I’ll see if I get to that point

Hopefully you fall short of that point and find an easy fix like a bad smog pump or other rotating item making that racket.

here's to the easy fix

 

[Seth S]

Hopefully you fall short of that point and find an easy fix like a bad smog pump or other rotating item making that racket.

here's to the easy fix

agreed. Though smog pump was removed on desmog. I’ll post update when I run sans belts.