1983 BJ42 buildup/ resto

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cool, will do so, I will be pulling my CDN M101 trailer back as well but that is not really heavy, and will be taking it steady but not dogging. The exhaust brake kit I ordered from Japan, they were installed on Coaster buses for either the 3B or 1HD-T motors. All the diagrams are on Toyodiy.com or if you give me an email I can email you the diagrams. It of ocurse never cam on a BJ42 but I have pics of where someone put this kit on his BJ42, I actually bought the one for the 1HD-T which is the same actually but has bigger diameter butterfly due to larger exhaust and is what I needed since I am turboed now and going bigger exhaust anyway. So it is 2.25" and on backside of butterfly I will go 2.5". I will post pics of installation and how it does, it just arrived in states so should see it in few days and then I can take to exhaust shop to do my exhaust and then I am wrapped up on this project for now? Didnt really need it of course but I will be towing my camping trailer around and like the idea of saving some $$$ on brakes? I still have to come up with how I will do a switch to activate it, maybe on the shifter or down on floorboard like large trucks?

R
 
you get the screen and bib through a Toyota dealership? Looks sweet.:grinpimp:
 
Thanks Theo,

Herbs, I snatched those 2 pars off ebay someone was selling, the BIB is still available at least SOR has them for $700 and the grill screen for diesel is not available? Wayne, I sent you those pics.

R
 
Rob, please help.

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The short steel pipe on the lower radiater hose, does it bolt to the fan shroud or what ? Mine was just loose and not bolted to anything :confused:
 
Theo, yes it does, there should be 2 threaded boles on the bottom of shroud that it bolts to, I will go take pics. I could only get 1 back threaded though after I put that lower radiator hose heater on? but its tight.

R
 
Thanks Rob !

My shroud was obviously hacked/ damaged as it does not have that bracket holding the welded nut at all :confused:
 
Hola Roberto,

Yours is another ugly duckling turning into a beautiful swan.

Keep up the good job.





JuanJ
 
Well in the last 2 days, we have been trying to fit the softtop, finished the turbo intake with K&N open air filter, mounted the front seats, took on its first trip to alignment shop about 30 mins away (was spooky for alignment was all sloppy), had split rims balanced as well, getting exhaust dont tommorow, figured out why my brakes sucked after we replaced all drums, rotors, pads, and rebuilt disks (dirt dobber wasp built a nest inside the brake vacuum tank line when it was apart and the tank was not getting air/ vacuum supplied to it from alternator vacumm drive gear), we took off all lines and blew air through them and one did not give us air so we put compressed air in and out came bunch of cr**. hooked back up and cranked her up and brake light went off and let it run for awhile and took for a spin and now brakes work great, about put myslef through windshield compared to standing on them on the way to alignment shop earlier today and scratching our heads why brakes sucked? we learn things the hard way around here. having a turn signal issue in where we dont have turn signals anymore? we think it is that little square box by pedals? running about 900 farenheit pre turbo on EGT gauge at about 2200 RPM and showing 55MPH on gauge but I have changed gears from 4:11's to 3:70's and went from stock rims and tires to 16" rims and 235/85-16's so I think I am probably doing 65MPH? and that is in 5th gear of course.

R
 
Rob, first off excellent job and congrats. Do you have a boost gauge(if so, what's your boost)? Have you adjusted the fuel yet(if so, how many turns-1/4 turns)? Regarding the one-blink then stop, sounds like a bulb issue. If the filament in one bulb is screwed up the flasher notices the resistance(or lack thereof) and will stop(thus alerting the operator of a problem). Pull bulbs, check each with a continuity tester, if good, probe test light inside each socket and verify power. Hope that helps. Bet your not in any hurry to go mud bogging are you?
 
Rob,

Do the new bibs have the bracket to fit the interior hood popper? When I bought the one for Patches (my HJ47), the US brackets were different than the Aussie ones, and I could not mount the interior latch.

Have you turned that front drive shaft around the right way yet?:D Seriously, I am very impressed with your rig- I can't wait to get mine up to speed.

Cheers,

Josh
 
Roberto said:
...we dont have turn signals anymore? we think it is that little square box by pedals? ....
R
Click to expand...

Hi Rob.

Yep. That is the Blinker Relay:

RelayBlink.webp

But check what bulbs you're running.

Should be 21 Watt (main blinker bulbs) and 5 Watt (sides of fender-mounted)

From my experience - Fitting lower-wattage bulbs can stop the blinking (same - if any bulb is blown or not earthed properly)

And if you've gone for LED bulbs - that would probably stop the relay from working too.

Cheers
Tom
RelayBlink.webp
 
Remember too Rob that the US front indicators are different from the Aussie ones. The Aussie ones used the side light as an indicator, where the US ones use it as a marker light.

While I don't think this would cause a problem like that, I would just make sure that you have hooked up the wires correctly. If it is not grounding correctly, then you will not get the resistance you need to operate the flasher, as Tom said. Further to what Tom said, if the flasher unit is not getting sufficient resistance, then the light will simply stay on. If it is not getting sufficient grounding, then I think the light will just not come on at all.

Cheers,

Josh
 
Cool, we will keep plugging away at it since we will have some down time now.

Thanks
R
 
Getting Very Close

Indeed you have done an oustanding job so far Many hours of LOVE, SWEAT and Tears plus a little cash on the side . Dave
I will be sending out side panels for the top... Best of luck on this unique project ! Dave at Rockntag@msn.com
 
Thanks fellas, will post more pics soon, getting the IP bench tested and getting the hardtop and amby doors redone.

R
 
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