Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration

[dmaddox]

Yes - I have it on my toolbox because I wasn't sure if it was for this one or if it was added from a later cruiser. Is it correct for my cruiser?

 

[OlYellr]

I'm posting 9 million pictures mainly because I'm using this thread as my sole location for documenting the restoration. Apologies if it is annoying.

Annoying? Get real. This is awesome AF!

And I will co-sign the post on your thread where someone thanking you for part number photos.

 

[Andrew S]

Please keep posting photos and asking questions! This will be my resource to put my 78 back together in the future.

Andrew

 

[Ackcruisers]

Yes - I have it on my toolbox because I wasn't sure if it was for this one or if it was added from a later cruiser. Is it correct for my cruiser?

Was hoping you knew the answer. I purchased the ignitor from Ih8mud member who said it was on his 1978 40. After some quick research, it appears this cover was on 3/77- 7/80 FJ40/55 ARCTIC version but with a different part number 19519-61010 Vs. 19519-38030.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Yes - I have it on my toolbox because I wasn't sure if it was for this one or if it was added from a later cruiser. Is it correct for my cruiser?

Was hoping you knew the answer. I purchased the ignitor from Ih8mud member who said it was on his 1978 40. After some quick research, it appears this cover was on 3/77- 7/80 FJ40/55 ARCTIC version but with a different part number 19519-61010 Vs. 19519-38030.

View attachment 3393044

- the BLACK 19519-38030 Black Coil Deflector Shield us Currently in FULL Reproduction Production right now as we speak ,

- it is being Injection Molded , NOT 3-D printed ,

- i should have my first batch in the very near future here , as is SOON !

- let the games continue to begin !

 

[dmaddox]

Oddly, I put that cap on the coil pack this morning with a distinctive "click", took a sip of coffee.....peered out into the neighborhood and felt that all was right in the world.

Humor aside, my part number is the later FJ60 one. They look identical, however.

 

[dmaddox]

Missing in action. I thought I had one - will have to post in the wanted section.
I’m seeing a few different versions.

 

[dmaddox]

Whew, what a weekend. I had set aside things that needed painted black. (Keep in mind, outside of new parts being shipped in, I have tried to do everything on my own, in my garage...outside of mounting/balancing tires). Normally, the other 99% of people would have dropped all of this off with the powder coaters, but my goal was epoxy industrial paint.

1. seat brackets and rails.
2. shifters
3. roll bar
4. air cleaner
5. air intake horn and bracket
6. pedal cluster housing
8. parking brake bracket/support

I've been through several quarts of this paint and its proven to be very durable. I used satin on my frame, gloss on the axles/transmission/engine block. After spraying the above list in gloss black, mixing a 4:1 ratio with activator thinning with xylene :1 (using a 1.8 tip @ 40 psi) I was happy with the results. Saturday morning I came outside to check on the work and I thought there was a mist in the air or some dew. Nope, I used the wrong can.....it wasn't gloss it was satin. In most cases, I would have just went with it, but on some of the items above it doesn't work. So, I went over everything with a 600 grit paper very lightly and then a tack cloth. I then sprayed a PPG Deltron 4000 clear coat over everything. Turned out very nice - almost too nice. The whole satin mistake will at least make for a very durable job. That ate up most of Saturday, but was able to begin work on heater hoses, the pedal assembly and a few small electrical jobs.

Last, I am now realizing that I have quite possibly messed up the mounting holes for the "Passenger Rear" seat mount. As you all know, the passenger seat "towers" for lack of a better term for the rear of the seat are the taller of the four rear mounts. The outer one (closest to the fuel filler) mounts how? I have no idea and in repairing previous owner patches and tin work have probably either welded new steel in there or? This will require me to drill all the way down through the box section and securing the mount with a long bolt. Sigh.

I can't find a good photo of the rear outside passenger seat foot, but without having the seat on-hand to test fit.... I have an old set of seat brackets just to rough-in where they go (pardon the mess):

Also - I'm working on fitting in the air cleaner to understand if/what I am missing on the setup. I love the original (yet crispy) decals, which differ in several little details with the modern reprints. One of which is the "TEQ" logo in the bottom left as well as both vacuum lines coming from the distributor.

Test fitting the air cleaner after finishing the engine bay electrical. I just have the two charcoal canister hard lines I need to run across the firewall to finish. One up high and the lower one that goes behind the block. Then, it will be spaghetti time with all of the vacuum lines.

 

[Andrew S]

Dallas, you might consider some riv-nuts for the seat mounting rear brackets. Drill your holes from above, and you can install the riv-nuts from the same side.
Progress on the engine bay is amazing!!

Andrew

 

[dmaddox]

Thank you @Andrew S!

What are the seat bolts again? 7/16 x 20? I'm not at home to double check, but thought US Market trucks had to comply with seat and seat belt bolts.

Man....I never thought I'd be typing posts like this. The rabbit hole has turned into an entire unground city with an advanced plumbing system, tribes of various peoples, a market on Friday's and entire civilizations of factory based industry.

Part of me is thinking its just an M8x1.25.

sigh.....

 

[OlYellr]

I just went thought the bolt stuff on my 1980 - from what I remember - it applied in previous years.

The bolts for the seat belts are SAE not metric - They are stamped with TK 43 on them - search show Grade5 or higher and 7/16x20.

The photo are the other bolts (Metric) needed for the roll bar.

If I can find my picture of the SAE bolt, I will edit this post with it. (Edited - found a couple more shots - one is when I was cleaning the bolts - I circled the TK 43 bolt and you can see it's size compared to the metric bolts. Last photo is with the new metric bolts - heck with cleaning - and the cleaned up SAE bolt with the seat belts after I got the belts restored).

 

[Andrew S]

I'll look when I get home tonight, I think the pedestal to floor hardware is M8. Not sure on the seat brackets to pedestal.

 

[dmaddox]

Awesome - thank you. Being at home now, it appears that all of the brackets are held to the floor with M8x1.25. Now, as far as the seats to the bracket? That could be the switch to SAE. I wonder if M8x1.25 x 2 on each foot => 1 SAE bolt?

 

[dmaddox]

Andrew beat me to it.

 

[dmaddox]

while I work on sourcing spiffy hardware for the seats to Mount to the brackets, recall my roll bar dilemma. All 16 holes were drilled out with various shapes and sizes of bolts and nuts to secure it down.

On page 12 we dove into it a little bit. However, Because it was all drilled out, including the rollbar mounts themselves, I opted for a metric that would fit.

Way back then, I welded on M12x1.75mm nuts and then ordered these with a dished crown, and gold zinc: Very beefy and just clears the holes in the seat belt mounting tabs. A beast of a bolt, oem looking and would hold my aunt peggy down in a rollover. The cruiser would probably roll around her, to be honest.

Next I'll have to begin sourcing spiffy hardware for the roll bar.

 

[Goldbug]

If you have a chance at some point, would you mind taking a pic of the Choke cable coming through the firewall and connecting to the carb? I picked up a used cable from Nolan, but it's just, just barely long enough. Came off a 76 or 78 40 though. THANKS

 

[dmaddox]

No problem at all. Will take a shot when I get home - it basically comes through right at the back of the valve cover and make a perfect elbow macaroni to the carb.

Clearly I'm hungry.

 

[dmaddox]

Let me know if this works @Goldbug !!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

If you have a chance at some point, would you mind taking a pic of the Choke cable coming through the firewall and connecting to the carb? I picked up a used cable from Nolan, but it's just, just barely long enough. Came off a 76 or 78 40 though. THANKS

Let me know if this works @Goldbug !!

View attachment 3397263View attachment 3397264

hello , mr Goldberg ....

Dallas and i had a Super-TECH'y in-depth technical discussion this past weekend on the topic you are speaking with Dallas here on ...

- there were only 2 major stand alone varets , of a 1/75 - 1984 LHD 2F 78310 - ( Cable , SUB. ASSY. CHOKE )

- all the many many dozens of various part numbers , are related to the ever changing knobs cosmetics , the added on ratchet detent stops , etc .....


- Dallas made me prommis i would finish the story , or better said , help clarify in detail which of the 2 types came a :
1978 FJ40LV - KCJA .....
- instead on a longer then long T-TEN-Professor level Chatty-Matty thesis into the unknown universe ?
even Japan oddly

- it hit me that TOYOTA's across the board 8/80- later update & badly need change from Anglo-Saxon TEXT letters = WORD .....

- To what TOYOTA at the called on micro-fiche a ' INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE LOGO ...

- we will all the cracker-jack-TEq-Smack , here & have 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Reset 78310- & 78410-
Period correct and beyond good time !


- tonights lecure , will be far less , and the LAB Portion more Internationally friendly and familiar LOGO's Based

- so lets have at it shall we ..
- NOTE : ALL below example TECH-images are my Professional Mechanical Artisan restoration works , unless otherwise noted .....fyi

- FIRST UP : is the Early 1/75 - 7/80 Phillips Head Set Screw Phish-Eye Carb Butterfly type ......

- note the was high carbon steel , now Stainless Steel strand wire is notable long after the end Brass Ferrule tips , 2.84" to be exact ......





.

,

NOW , the 8/80- Later updated Brass Barrel Cable Stop at end of the much shorter Stand Wire , also originally high carbon steel that turned into the Crimson-RED Hull of HMS TITANIC after only few single digit Full Rotations , hence the stands begint un-wind Faster then the Sands of JIS Time .....



well , i incorporated and fully replaced , into the 1/16 " 10mm deep factory pin-hole on the Rear of the D-GROOVE shaft , using more then a few unsuccessful attempts of using some rather out-side the box approaches , including a 27 TON hydraulic press the take the last 5mm slivers at the end , and crimp the S#IT out of it too ....

well that did not work , in any way either , except make me Hyper aware having the 10 finger that TEq-Gesus gave me still was way way more important


- well , a few ,more 10packs later till the birds started to chirp pre-dawn , i dilad in all the Area 51 on that , more then complex monkey shines there , that also now applied to actually making a 5mm diameter solid bar stock of brass , stick on .304 stainless steel marine grade strand wire using the Periodic Table of Elements in a way i had never seen or heard of before ?


-

These images below are of the actual first Successful 78310- Rodeo of my own personal obsession and quest to Drive my 1983 FJ43L-KC on the surface of the moon !


HOUSTON : The J.I.S. 78310- Has Landed .... .

,

This was the 2nd " GO 4 main sequence start ! " ........at the later Brass Barrel Stop Equipped 78310- , this time friends showed up to say ;


THIS IS THE WAY ...


.

 

[dmaddox]

I need a ToyotaMatt decoder ring, part number 65461-10034.