Build 1977 FJ55 west TN build: family wagon

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Going to sleep last night I was thinking about this (I know, right), but since your trailer is already made I wouldn't even think about cutting up the tongue to add a surge brake. You can buy some great new pig tails with a junction box built in which makes wiring a breeze and a new set of brakes.


 
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Thanks scrapdaddy and Ol Yeller for your thoughts and help. These are exactly the brakes I've been considering. My tow vehicle already has the a brake controller wired, although I still need to check that it actually works. I certainly don't want to mess with the tongue, so it seems like electronic is the way to go. In addition, I like the idea of having greater control over the trailer from the cab. I'll order the stuff and update as I install.

Meanwhile, I worked a few hours this morning on the 55. Still working on that wheel well. Welding on the union of the wheel well and the metal I added (which was just a little thicker) I was able to see how differently my mig welds just by adjusting wire speed. I kept the power dial the same and just messed with the wire speed. Wow, I could go from very little penetration and forming mounds of metal globs to complete blow through with about 30 degree turn of the wire speed dial.

Onward!
 
Driver’s side is done. Piece of cake! Actuated the brakes from the cab and the wheel went from spinning freely to immovable by hand. I’ll try to finish the other side and rewire the plug by early next week.

Now off to finish the downstairs bathroom - leaking toilet.

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Making my own hooks for the bed of the trailer. $10 for a piece of 1/4 scrap cut and bent. Now to the plasma cutter and more grinding. Dang, maybe I’ll pay the boys to grind the metal smooth.

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Terrible! My plasma cutter is just barely able to do 1/4”. Had hot metal flying all over. I think I’ll just take it to the local welding shop and see what they charge to cut out the pieces. They’ll probably want to start over and cut the pieces out and then bend them though.

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How many tie downs are you going with, might be cheaper and easier to get four of the weld on D-rings.
 

How many tie downs are you going with, might be cheaper and easier to get four of the weld on D-rings.

I was going to use 6 at least. Four in the front to anchor the front tires with basket tow dolly straps for each tire and 2 in the back with an axle strap around the axle on each side going back and anchoring behind the truck. I liked the fact that I could secure these anchors by a single bolt through the trailer's floor and stout cross members. That way I can easily remove all the anchors and have just small holes where the bolts would go through the floor.
 
Also, decided on chains rather than those hooks I was building. Cheaper and adjustable. Duh!
Load rated chain is a great option for binding down a load.

Assuming those are ¼” or 5/16” bolts in single shear please rethink your tie down solution if you plan to haul a full size car on that trailer. You have a wonderful family and you guys don’t need the troubles that’s headed your way when that fails.
 
They’re 3/8” grade 8 bolts. I’ll have basket 2@ straps around front tires, two 2” straps on rear axle and 2 safety chains front and rear. I thought that should be good.
Just fixed first problem of the trip. Stopped to get gas and shacks was reversed on trailer from nhavinv new tires installed.
Onward!
 
They’re 3/8” grade 8 bolts. I’ll have basket 2@ straps around front tires, two 2” straps on rear axle and 2 safety chains front and rear. I thought that should be good.
In any type of rigging a 3/8” bolt would have a 1000# load rating under ideal conditions, clamping a chain through wood being held with flat washers is less than ideal.

Please be careful.
 
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