Build 1969 FJ40 named Mavis

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If your flare tool cracks the line, it's a s***ty flare tool. The offset eccentric style flare tool from Ridgid works awesome.
RIDGID 41162 Model 377 Precision Non-Ratcheting Flaring Tool https://share.google/fmXu1aoLBqbihgH4Y
Here's a cheaper version that's still eccentric: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4NKJWBS?tag=ihco-20

Eastwood also sells a version of this one I found on Amazon, which also works great but isn't exactly handy for trying to flare lines that are still on the car.

Simply put, the cheap harbor freight or auto zone flare tool are basically garbage, IMHO. You'll be amazed at how good you are at flaring lines with proper equipment. 🤠

The Ridgid flare tools appear to be for a single flare. Brake lines need to be double flared.
 

The things I learn from this forum.

Now I can dig into this job without fear of turning into a weeks long suffer feat. I'll try to get the old soft lines off, but if I fail, I can just put new ends into the existing lines
 

The things I learn from this forum.

Now I can dig into this job without fear of turning into a weeks long suffer feat. I'll try to get the old soft lines off, but if I fail, I can just put new ends into the existing lines

Never use compression fittings on brake lines. Read the info in the specifications on your link. You can use a double flare and coupling nuts with an inverted flare to make junctions or replace the entire brake line.
 
So, I owe FIC brake cylinders an apology.

Seems I didn't replace the one that went bad two years ago. How do I know?

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Also, I realized that the OEM replacement turn signal assembly you can buy from Toyota? The threaded bit that the column shifter is supposed to thread into is one size too big, which lead to my shifter assembly threading into, but eventually stripping out.

There was still thread there, so I put some aluminized speed tape on the male threads, and screwed it in, hoping it will stay.

For those who know, the spring loaded detents that hold the shifter into the column ALWAYS go flying in weird ass directions and tonight I finally lost the spring. I looked at it for a minute and dropped an appropriately sized nail in the hole. Fixed it.

I don't think I am going to ever put the OEM spring loaded detents back in there.
 
Apparently I am part of HR. I have been informed that you need a new spare tire.😉
 
I keep a set of those cct for emergency use. In like april I bought 2/0 gauge copper wires with the terminals cast on. $45 delivered for a red 27" and a black 14". I used my old black to go from the block down to the chassis ground under the brake line T. Cranks much better than with the old 2 gauge wires.

 
At least mounting the new cylinder was easy. Ran into an issue with brakes binding.... Again.

Tried centering the brake shoes and damned if that didn't fix it.

Problem is, you can't tell if you fixed it until you tighten the lug nuts, so I tried it without the tire on first.

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Early FJ40 drum brakes are the most poorly designed brakes I've ever seen. They're just not worth the agravation.
 
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