I hear that! I'm sure it has never been split.
Official 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HD-FTE and 1HZ BEB thread
- Thread starter Greg_B
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I hooked up a mechanical gauge and tested my oil pump per the fsm and my gauge is way off. It barely moves at idle and I see like 25pis at idle and 60 at 2500+
Hopefully the case is the same for mine!
@cruisermatt is in central Florida. He could probably get you sorted if you are nearby.
Thanks! I've had a couple of exchanges with Cruiser Matt, and he seems like a great guy and resource. He is unfortunately about 3 hours away from me. If I can't find a suitable resource locally, I would probably drop it on a trailer and drag it down there.@cruisermatt is in central Florida. He could probably get you sorted if you are nearby.
ACL seems to be a very popular choice. Duraglide or Race in your opinion?
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Do you actually have an indicator that you have a problem? We don’t typically do these as PM anymore as the originals always look perfect on all the ones we’ve done 
No issues or indicators, Brother. Maybe I'm reading too many online horror stories? Please forgive me, I'm a new owner and probably going through a stage of paranoia. This has been my dream machine for several years, and finally I have one. I just want to keep it reliable because I intend to drive it rather than worship it LOL.Do you actually have an indicator that you have a problem? We don’t typically do these as PM anymore as the originals always look perfect on all the ones we’ve done
I'll let it go, and just stay faithful with regular oil changes as it runs and sounds perfect.Do you actually have an indicator that you have a problem? We don’t typically do these as PM anymore as the originals always look perfect on all the ones we’ve done
The issue is cavitation which occurs at specific load and rpm. The Aussies found this problem because they spend a lot of time near that rpm and load. If the vehicle had more varied use it's less likely to be a problem.
But you will only know if you get in and look.
Thanks! Yea, this one came out of Japan (not that it's going to really tell the story) and likely had a less rigorous life. Saving grace is that it runs great now, and I'll just pay close attention as she goes.
That would be worth the time
I just wanted to chime in with my experience, if you look at my post above youll see I have what I would consider extreme BEB wear and I had 0 symptoms, no noises, so strange feeling, no visible metal in oil, etc etc, that engine ran and pulled smooth!
After replacing all the BEB's the engine sounds, pulls, and feels exactly the same as before, the oil pressure gauge on the dash looks identical too.
What im saying is, is I think the only way to know if you have BEB issues is to go in and have a look, and if you haven't, id highly recommend you do!
(this is my BEB on a 1994 1HD-T with ~190k Miles, went in to change the BEB's purely for a just-in-case, and boy am I glad we took the effort to do it!)
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You could do an oil analysis with Blackstone Labs for peace of mind. $35 and BS does a nice report on what they are seeing. They will offer a few recommendations as well.
i do it every few changes
How did you get a sample to them?
I think that's probably money well spent. But if the bearings are already damaged (not saying that's my case), wouldn't analysis only detect wear between oil changes? Or is it a case where liberation of babbitt is detectable if the bearing is advanced in its wear?
Request it online. They'll send you a bottle, envelope and payment form. When you send the oil in they'll email you a PDF and a report. And send you another set of bottles.
It will detect increasing amounts of metal per oil change hinting at failure in the future.
These were probably good for another 100k miles
