TrollHole Cruisers Carb Install on a 60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Carp
- Start date
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Great--I'll head to the pay-pal and place the order
Anticipated? No clue as they have only been out in the market for 6 months or so from me and a couple years from another supplier in AU. That being said I have yet to find an issue that wouldn't cause them to last a long time. Materials seem to be made of the same stuff the originals were made from.
As far as warranty I don't have one. I'll promise though that if you have any issues in the first 6 months I'll work with you on solving them. If you have an issue you can always call me. I'm not making a bunch of money on these carbs. I'm doing it because I'm trying to help the cruiser community out.
It's a great deal guys; walked out into snowy north louisiana this morning, pulled choked, pumped 3 times, drove away. Awesome.
norsk
SILVER Star
very happy with mine. Boosted MPG some 30%, into the upper 13s
doug t
doug t
I'm hearing that the Trollhole dizzy won't do my 83 FJ60 any good--really for the older ones. Am I getting that right?
Yes the dizzy you have right now is much better than anything I can get. Electronic vs points. Your 60 dizzy is really good.
If anything get Jim C to rebuild it.
If anything get Jim C to rebuild it.
norsk
SILVER Star
Put in JimC's mod'd dizzy on saturday, fixed the missing O ring on the thermostat (the engine get warm FAST now and stays warm) - just got 15.1 MPG to work and back (53 miles) that is a high for me. Started at 8-9 MPG when I got the rig before I had my Asin carb locally rebuilt (before I knew abt JimC), that boosted it to 10.5.
desmoged, adjusted valves, cleaned things, running Mobil 1 syn oil 10w-40 high mileage
Trollhole carb boosted it again to 13.5 and now touching 15.1
Headers are next up.
doug t
And Marshall, I really appreciate it. It is a great carb
desmoged, adjusted valves, cleaned things, running Mobil 1 syn oil 10w-40 high mileage
Trollhole carb boosted it again to 13.5 and now touching 15.1
Headers are next up.
doug t
And Marshall, I really appreciate it. It is a great carb
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NORSK--you are where I'm trying to get.
Have you looked into the intake leak issues that seem to come with the header install?
I'm thinking the fix is just to take intake/header to a good machine shop and have them shaved to match.
Are you going to wrap your headers to reduce heat?
Have you looked into the intake leak issues that seem to come with the header install?
I'm thinking the fix is just to take intake/header to a good machine shop and have them shaved to match.
Are you going to wrap your headers to reduce heat?
norsk
SILVER Star
have NOT YET installed the headers, just recently got them from someone on this site.
lehiguy suggested using a F (not a 2F) manifold gasket, as that is what he did and I am going to try the 1/2 washer trick as per lehiguy
thought about the wrap, but they get dirty
doug t
It's in and works great--like you said, one wire, one vac hose, linkage and choke and done. Great carb-thanks!
Quick question on the wire--I hooked it up to just one of the leads off the truck. Did I hear I should splice those together and attach both to the wire from the carb?
Quick question on the wire--I hooked it up to just one of the leads off the truck. Did I hear I should splice those together and attach both to the wire from the carb?
My old carb had no decel, someone put a bolt in its place. It's an 82' 60 and I can't even find the old plug. Does it just need a full time 12v source, or ign on only? Also, my dist. advance has two vac lines coming off it instead of one, do I just tee them together and go to the carb?
Don't think you want to T the 2 vac line together, 1 is advance and the orther is retard, am looking to see if I can get dashpot that just works advance to fit on dizzy or a new one that only has advance..anyone know if orther dashpot will fit? Can't wait for new carb
did you ever find a fix for this? i am having the exact same problem now with mineFinally got to do a little wrenching after installing my new Trollhole carb--this thing is driving me insaneIt's idling great but falls on it's face above approx. 1800rpms. Less power than it had before the new carb. Can't find a vacuum leak anywhere, timing is on. New wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump, blah blah. Pops a LOT when I let off the gas. Took the exhaust off right before the converter thinking it may be clogged--nothing gained but noise(this is actually what it feels like to me, a clogged exhaust) Voltage gauge shows low a lot of the time, but I have 2 alt. and the voltage at the battery is 12.5ish. Could this be ignition problems? Is there something I need to adjust on the carb? This is really frustrating! Everybody else is bolting in their new carb and grinning while I'm cursing
I'll bring this back up....trying to fix a previous owners trollhole install and desmog attempt.... I'm gonna have a lot of questions.
First one is where do both of the distributor vents get routed to?
First one is where do both of the distributor vents get routed to?
I'm running the absolute minimum vacuum hoses. Most everything is already capped or just removed. The only thing I have left that is vacuum controlled is the one hose connecting the vacuum advance to the base of the carb.
The two ports in the dizzy cap connect to the firewall (cabin vent) and to the air cleaner through a VSV. Not related to the vacuum advance or the carb.
So one goes to the firewall and one to the air cleaner? Does it matter which? I have no VSV.
Can you connect the vacuum line that goes to the vsv straight to the air cleaner is you have no vsv?
As it is now, I have both connected to a T connector and then vented to air cleaner. The only connection on that side is connected to a valve on the bottom of the air cleaner. Why does it need to be vented to the firewall? Could it just be vented with a hose with a filter on one end?
