TrollHole Cruisers Carb Install on a 60 (2 Viewers)

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Carp - Did you change out your distributor as well? If not, are there any mods to the dizzy that have to be done? I am considering Trollhole's carb for my 1985 60 (250K miles) which has not yet been desmogged . It runs ok but I am sure a fresh carb and desmog would make a big difference. I would however like to keep my dizzy and ignitor. Did you follow any particular desmog thread?

I'm sorry that I skipped this post. I did follow fowldarr's "My Desmog Thread" to desmog. The truck was running as good as I could expect after the desmog, without a recurved dizzy or rebuilt carb. I would suggest doing the desmog first and making sure that the truck runs well, before installing this carb, just to make sure you don't do anything crazy. Maybe Trollhole has an idea?

I kept my stock ignition system, it seems to be in good shape.

Good Luck!:beer:
 
Silly question

How about us poor luckless fellows who have to keep the smog junk in place? Will this new carb have any significant benefit if we can figure out how to reroute the existing smog vacuum lines?

Glenn in Tucson
 
Finally got to do a little wrenching after installing my new Trollhole carb--this thing is driving me insane:mad: It's idling great but falls on it's face above approx. 1800rpms. Less power than it had before the new carb. Can't find a vacuum leak anywhere, timing is on. New wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump, blah blah. Pops a LOT when I let off the gas. Took the exhaust off right before the converter thinking it may be clogged--nothing gained but noise(this is actually what it feels like to me, a clogged exhaust) Voltage gauge shows low a lot of the time, but I have 2 alt. and the voltage at the battery is 12.5ish. Could this be ignition problems? Is there something I need to adjust on the carb? This is really frustrating! Everybody else is bolting in their new carb and grinning while I'm cursing:censor:
 
Yep to you. I'm not a fan of putting someones product on my vehicle and it not work correct. So before I ship you another carb I want to make sure the linkage is correct.

In this pic you can see a silver washer on the main throttle shaft. Does yours have this?

IMG_3766.JPG
 
Can't find my camera, but I do have the silver washer. Is this good or bad? If that's not the problem any other suggestions?
Thanks for the help--and the carb!
 
I just installed one of these carbs and I am in the process of making some adjustments to get the idle to smooth out. Which wire is the constant 12v green or black? I don't have a multi meter or would not ask. Thanks.

Oh yeah, here's the finished product, sans breather top.

IMG_3770.JPG


One thing I forgot to mention, is that the fuel decel cutoff switch (the only electronic wires on either carb) don't have identical plugs. The new carb is a 1 wire system, while the 60 is a 2 wire plug. Not a problem. You can either do as I did and make a jumper to run from the 1 wire to the constant 12V side of the 60 plug, or you could switch plugs and make the wire go to the constant 12V. Another option, for those who want to try, might be to swap the sensors. I'm not certain it would work correctly, but might be worth a look.
 
I just installed one of these carbs and I am in the process of making some adjustments to get the idle to smooth out. Which wire is the constant 12v green or black? I don't have a multi meter or would not ask. Thanks.

I'll have to look when I get home, can't remember off the top of my head.
 
looks like a great way to go for a new carb!

im gonna have to pick one of these up after i do my fan clutch
 
Now that cooler weather is rolling in, and I've had the carb for a few months, I thought that I would update y'all on the carb. It's still running perfect, perfect idle, cranks right up, especially once warm. What really blows me away, though, is how well it cranks cold. My choke cable is crimped and I haven't been able to get one yet, but with just a few pumps (5-7) on the accelerator, it'll fire up. If I feather the throttle a little bit, it'll stay alive and then the idle will pick up. Unbelievable! My last carb wouldn't start this well when the choke cable was working. Very nice indeed! Still getting mid teens around town on the MPG.
 
Great to hear that as I am going through replacing all my vacuum lines with brand new silicone lines....then going through emission manual to check EGR, PCV, and other valves. If that does not fix it I am seriously thinking about ripping it all out and getting a troll hole and saving this in case I ever need to resmog later... LOL
 
Now that cooler weather is rolling in, and I've had the carb for a few months, I thought that I would update y'all on the carb. It's still running perfect, perfect idle, cranks right up, especially once warm. What really blows me away, though, is how well it cranks cold. My choke cable is crimped and I haven't been able to get one yet, but with just a few pumps (5-7) on the accelerator, it'll fire up. If I feather the throttle a little bit, it'll stay alive and then the idle will pick up. Unbelievable! My last carb wouldn't start this well when the choke cable was working. Very nice indeed! Still getting mid teens around town on the MPG.

I can second that.
 
Great to hear that as I am going through replacing all my vacuum lines with brand new silicone lines....then going through emission manual to check EGR, PCV, and other valves. If that does not fix it I am seriously thinking about ripping it all out and getting a troll hole and saving this in case I ever need to resmog later... LOL

That is a good idea. Make sure you step through this process. I had the truck desmogged and running good before I put the carb on, so that I could make sure that it made trouble shooting easier. Plus, it's easier to follow the desmog when the carb looks like the one in the pics. :grimpimp:
 
I would still need to get a pulley to replace the smog pump....but other than that it appears all the vacuum lines are removed except for Dizzy and the AC idle up when you add it to the new carb. Any reason why the plug is not already setup properly with the constant 12v or is it a matter of sharing parts for all the different Cruiser setups?

If I did not just put all this pretty blue silicone vacuum in my 60 I might have given myself a XMas present if Marshall had any in stock. If I decide to bite the bullet maybe I will just drive up one weekend and have you show me the ropes on the install and desmog if you dont mind. LOL And get marshall to sniff my pipe for fuel mixture and carb setup with his new toy.
 
I would still need to get a pulley to replace the smog pump....but other than that it appears all the vacuum lines are removed except for Dizzy and the AC idle up when you add it to the new carb. Any reason why the plug is not already setup properly with the constant 12v or is it a matter of sharing parts for all the different Cruiser setups?

If I did not just put all this pretty blue silicone vacuum in my 60 I might have given myself a XMas present if Marshall had any in stock. If I decide to bite the bullet maybe I will just drive up one weekend and have you show me the ropes on the install and desmog if you dont mind. LOL And get marshall to sniff my pipe for fuel mixture and carb setup with his new toy.

Sharing parts between a lot of different models. Best option for this is to cut your plug off the old carb and use it on the new idle solenoid wire. Gives it more of a stock look.
 
Trollhole--really interested in your carb for my 83-FJ60 but I live at @ 7,000 feet. Did I see you sent someone one already jetted for over 7K? What's the cost/availability? If I head to lower altitudes when do I need to re-jet?
 
In stock/$225 shipped for the fj60 version. I can swap out the jets for high altitude. If you head to lower elevations then you can just swap the low elevation jets back in. They reside right behind the drain plugs on the side of the carb. 5 min tops to swap them out.
 

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