Hello everyone just bought my 80 last week and excited to learn about it here. I noticed when I put my truck in neutral and go to 4low my abs light and diff lock light comes on. When I go to engage the front and rear diff they blink and don’t go solid. Sometimes I have one or other go solid but never consistently. Any idea what is happening and why
Triple lock not engaging (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ethingnow
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Did you even try a search?? This has been covered countless times.
- Thread starter
- #3
I think my situation might be different because mine has worked and then stopped..
- Thread starter
- #5
sorry just saw the link, i need an easier way to use this fourm.. not used to the layout or used to finding things on here so be patient...
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
First it's often helpful to know what year model you have, as there are differences, some significant, between various models. If you put that in your signature line, no one has to ask 
Sometimes, it's as simple as a dirty connector, sometimes it's a bad shift motor. The FSM is in the Resources section; you should download that and the EWD for your general maintenance and troubleshooting use. Even if you can't do the work yourself, and not everyone can, the manuals will help to educate you about what your truck is and how it works. This will help you help whoever fixes it, by narrowing down, or at best, identifying the root cause of problems.
Sometimes, it's as simple as a dirty connector, sometimes it's a bad shift motor. The FSM is in the Resources section; you should download that and the EWD for your general maintenance and troubleshooting use. Even if you can't do the work yourself, and not everyone can, the manuals will help to educate you about what your truck is and how it works. This will help you help whoever fixes it, by narrowing down, or at best, identifying the root cause of problems.
- Thread starter
- #7
sorry its its a 1996 model..First it's often helpful to know what year model you have, as there are differences, some significant, between various models. If you put that in your signature line, no one has to ask
Sometimes, it's as simple as a dirty connector, sometimes it's a bad shift motor. The FSM is in the Resources section; you should download that and the EWD for your general maintenance and troubleshooting use. Even if you can't do the work yourself, and not everyone can, the manuals will help to educate you about what your truck is and how it works. This will help you help whoever fixes it, by narrowing down, or at best, identifying the root cause of problems.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Second, it's known the search function on this site leaves something to be desired.
This may help you get started:
Since this is an electrical system, you'll have to be able to read and understand the circuit diagrams and troubleshooting instructions. However, it's not that hard and having the parts and documents in front of you will help you get there.
The datasheets I posted are included in the FSM.
This may help you get started:
Since this is an electrical system, you'll have to be able to read and understand the circuit diagrams and troubleshooting instructions. However, it's not that hard and having the parts and documents in front of you will help you get there.
The datasheets I posted are included in the FSM.
Dude you might want to Chill, he's new but only a little newer then you !
inkpot
SILVER Star
When the locker lights blink it means they are trying to engage but can't due to either the axle splines are not lined up yet so turn the steering and drive, or the actuator is fouled up.
Remember the big username hassle years ago??? Just pulled up my old username, 2014.
no I don't !
30k users successfully either reset their passwords or followed the instructions on the forum to have their emails updated on their account... FYI
Curious - out of how many total users back then?
ALL Accounts Security Locked
It sucks, but it had to be done. And likely will need to be done periodically in the future too. Keep your email address on your account up to date. ALL 150k+ accounts on the forum need to reset their password. That includes moderators, Vendors, everyone. You may reset your password using the...
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
This forum needs a golf clap emogi
I will add some info, but to be fair there is a lot of info out there regarding issues with diff locks.
It sounds like your center diff is locking since its automatically doing as it should when you shift to 4low. Be mindful that when a diff lock light on the dash is solid then its confirmed to be locked. There is a separate sensor in each of the diffs that confirms things are locked. Those sensors are really what's making the light on the dash go solid.
For the actuators in the front and rear diffs to even think about actuating the center diff has to first be locked (based on your post it sounds like you're at this point already).
Once the center diff is locked and you turn the diff lock knob you can maybe hear the actuators in the diffs cycle (If the engine is off then you can probably hear them with your door open). At this point you will more than likely get the flashing lights on the dash. They are flashing because the locking collar is not fully seated in some way because splines are not fully lined up. You can remedy this by driving forward or reverse and turning the wheel. This will cause the differential to "differential" (I guess that's a good term). Which will make things line up. Sometimes you can lock the diff and just happen to already have things lined up and you'll get a solid light right away.
Also if you turn the diff locks off it is possible for the lights to stay solid. This is because there is tension built up in the driveline somewhere and its holding the locking collar in the diff from releasing. Usually through a series of turning and moving forwards and backwards will get things to release and the lights on the dash to go off.
Someone will probably not like the way I worded something but oh well, but this should give you some idea on how it works. There is plenty more reading you can do in the meantime to help yourself figure things out further.
- Thread starter
- #18
And when I do the turning of steering wheel do it on grass or dirt correct? Not parked on concrete in a parking lot? Thank you for the detailed info all new to me so always good to learn
Ideally, in grass or dirt. Or a big open space. carpark etc.
Drive slowly in a figure eight is the fool proof way to get them to lock. If they haven't locked by the time you've done one figure eight, you've probably got an issue that needs attention.
Do testing slowly, you're not going to do any damage. Do it at 50mph, and well, make sure you have someone video it
As above, getting them to unlock can be tricky, particularly with an auto. Again, Drive slowly, in a straight line, back off the throttle, on off on off, maybe click the transmission into neutral and coast, turn the steering wheel left and right a little
Sounds like they are probably functioning normally. Just need to adjust your expectation. They rarely lock instantly.
Like someone else has said, ideally a lower traction surface like grass or gravel. If you start trying to make turns on a high traction surface like concrete or asphalt you're going to get a lot of binding and tension built up in the driveline. Which can put a ton of load on your axles and other components. Which has the potential to break things.
You'll probably find that the front axles is easier to lock than the rear axle.
